- Growing Pineapples - Liz Johstono 16:36:56 6/10/00 (0)
I planted two pineapples approximately 3 years ago in my backyard
(Central Florida) and they are growing well. But I have yet to see any
fruit.... Is there something I should be doing to get fruit?? Someone
told me I need to grow a male and female pineapple next to each other
in order to get fruit. Thought this sounded strange. How do I
distinguish a male from a female pineapple. Please HELP!
- Maui Ixora - John 12:39:04 6/10/00 (0)
I just bought two maui ixora plants in containers. Can you tell me
what is the best way to care/feed for them and if they do better in
containers or in the ground? Sun or shade? I live in a very hot and
dry area of southwest Texas.
- Black Palm or Black Jade? - Walt Renfro 17:57:12
6/08/00 (1)
Has anyone ever heard of either a Black Palm or a Black Jade? I was
given this plant about a year ago, the guy gave it to me called it a
Black Palm. I have never been able to find any information on it at
all. Recently I was at a nursery in So. California and I saw one and
asked what they called it and they said it was a Black Jade. It has a
trunk very similar to a Pulmeria but has no flowers like a Pulmeria.
Instead it has big (about 3 to 6") black flower shaped clusters.
I have looked everywhere for any kind of information on this and have
not been able to do so. If anyone has any information it would greatly
be appreciated
- How do you Divide a Pygmy Date Palm? - Lyndsey 23:59:41
6/06/00 (3)
I recently got a Pygmy Date Palm, and it has some very well
developed suckers on it finally. I wish to divide it, but before, I
pulled the new growths out of the dirt, and planted them in new dirt.
They still don't seem to be doing well, though I kept them in shade
and took off all the fronds. But my question is, do I:
A.) cut them apart, like, take a knife and just cut their roots down
the center? or pull them apart?
B.) Should I keep them in their original soil? Is the shock of being
put in totally new soil too traumatic for them?
I'm a little confused. . . HELP!! -Lindsey
- Re: How do you Divide a Pygmy Date Palm? - Gary
(South Texas) 08:34:44 6/08/00 (2)
- Just wanted to make sure. . . - Lindsey 11:05:36
6/08/00 (1)
I've heard that Pygmy DP's don't clump. . . I'm confused
now, because this one gardening index says that they do. I
don't doubt your word, though.
I've done everything you've said. I appreciate the advice,
becaus every time I've divided pygmys, they all dry up and
die. I thought that it was perhaps severe transplant shock.
But this time, I've tried to keep as much of their original
soil with their roots as possible.
How much should I water them? I've wondered if I have over
watered some past palms that didn't make it.
The palms I separated were two who had a few new spears
coming in. . . how long before the palm will start to grow
again? What should I look for as a sign that it is
ailing/surviving?
And lastly, What should I do if the fronds begin to dry up
and get spindly? Someone said to cut off all the fronds when
you transplant, but that seems to me that it would make it
harder for the plant to survive. Any suggestions?
Your help so far has been absolutely wonderful. THANKS!!
Lindsey
- Re: Just wanted to make sure. . . - Gary
(South Texas) 05:14:08 6/10/00 (0)
Hi Lindsey,
Answer to your questions are....
1)
How much should I water? Water to keep plant moist but not
saturated and do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
2)How long until the palm starts growing again? That
depends on the general health of your plant and your
growing conditions. It might take a week or two or even
longer before the plant starts to re-grow, if the root
system wasn't damaged too much. I would never try to
either transplant or divide a plant that is not healthy to
begin with. Do not fertilize until new growth starts.
3) should I look for as a sign that it is
ailing/surviving? If the palm looks bad and the leaves dry
up or the new growth shrivels up, than I'd say your in
trouble. If the plant just sits there and doesn't seem to
grow, but the overall appearance hasn't changed, than I'd
say you have a chance, just give it some time.
4) Someone said to cut off all the fronds when you
transplant. You might want to remove some of the leaves
but NOT All,(and never top it! The plant must first grow
some new roots in order to start new growth. I have
transplanted Phoenix with out any leaves only the growing
tip without any problems. By removing some of the leaves
you cut down on the (transpiration) the lose of water
through the leaves.
- Transplant? 20' ponytail - Mike 22:34:00 5/31/00
(1)
I have a 16' or so ponytail palm that previous owner's planted
against the pool deck. I would like to move it if possible before it
does structural damage to the pool. It's a twin with the base now
about 3' x 5'. How big and deep can I expect the roots to be and how
big of a ball should I expect to keep?
- Re: Transplant? 20' ponytail - Jim 19:00:40
6/05/00 (0)
: I have a 16' or so ponytail palm that previous owner's planted
against the pool deck. I would like to move it if possible before
it does structural damage to the pool. It's a twin with the base
now about 3' x 5'. How big and deep can I expect the roots to be
and how big of a ball should I expect to keep?
Hi Mike, I have
only transplanted a few pony-tails, the largest being about 10
feet tall. When dug out of the sand here in Florida, all the soil
falls off the roots. There are very few roots. After digging, I
laid the stem horizontal to the ground and rolled the nut (like a
wheel on an axle) to its new location. Water in thoroughly.
Haven't lost one yet. Best, Jim
- sago palm - kate 23:06:45 5/30/00 (1)
i have just relocated to florida, and need help pruning my sago
palms. do i just cut the fronds on the bottom off, and if i do will
they regrow? i have been looking at how they are trimmed, but
obviously do not want to damage them. help, i have a brown thumb!
- Re: sago palm - Jim Dorsey 19:17:57 6/05/00
(0)
: i have just relocated to florida, and need help pruning my
sago palms. do i just cut the fronds on the bottom off, and if i
do will they regrow? i have been looking at how they are trimmed,
but obviously do not want to damage them. help, i have a brown
thumb!
Hi Kate,
Only remove the dead fronds. As long as
the leaves are green, they are supplying energy to the plant. The
more green leaves a plant has, the healthier it will be.
Sad
to say, but there are MANY ignorant professional lawn maint.
people and companies in Florida. It is a common and wide spread
practice to remove most fronds from Sago's and Palm's, leaving
only a little poof of fronds on the very top. I've often wondered
why they don't also prune pines, oaks, maples, cypress,mahogany's
and other trees the same way. Take almost all the leaves off, just
leave the topmost ones on.
Sorry to rant on so, but
ignorance and stupidity by supposedly professionals is
inexcuseable to me. Best, Jim
- Is there any other way to propogate palms beside seed and
division? - Grayson 12:07:23 6/02/00 (1)
I know that you can divide Areca palms, Pygmy date palms, and
Nanthea Bella palms, and you can also plant seeds (which take forever
to germinate.) But can you take cuttings? If so, how do you do this,
and under what conditions do they need to take root?
- Dracaena is not a variety of palm. . . .is it? - Marie
12:04:17 6/02/00 (1)
One of my botany books lists Dracaena as being a palm, but I have
always thought of it as being a yucca like plant. It's not, is it?
By the way, how do you pronounce it? Anyone have a phonetic
spelling?
Many thanks!
Marie
- Re: Dracaena is not a variety of palm. . . .is it? -
Robert Lee Riffle 14:47:13 6/02/00 (0)
Marie--there are two main divisions of the flowering plants.
Palms and dracaenas are in the same division (monocots) but are
notin the same families. Dracaena are now in their own (depending
on whose taxonomy oneaccepts) family (Dracaenaceae) while the
palms are in Palmae or Arecaceae. The other main division of the
flowering plants is the dicots which includes oaks, hibiscus
rubber trees (Ficus), etc., etc. The dicots far outnumber the
monocots in number of families and species, which include the
immense daisy family (Compositae; but the monocots have the
orchids (Orchidaceae) which have the greatest number of different
species of all plant families. (Some taxonomists put Dracaena into
the agave family, Agavaceae.) I suspect the botany book you saw
was using a common name for the Dracaena genus which, because of
the growth form, some people refer to as palms--they also do this
to many species in the Yucca genus (which is put into Agavaceae by
most botanists. "Dracaena" is pronounced "dra-SEE-na."
- Cycas revoluta 'rubra' hardy to -20 F? - Alan Brooks
05:01:41 5/28/00 (2)
CRDB (The Cold-Rating Data Base) claims that Cycas revoluta 'rubra'
is hardy to -20F or zone 5a. Does anyone know if this information is
correct. Where is a source where these plants can be purchased?
Thank
you
- Re: Cycas revoluta 'rubra' hardy to -20 F? - Gary
(South Texas) 00:23:02 5/28/00 (1)
Hi Allen,
Although there are about 40 to 50 species of
Cycas, I have never heard of Cycas r. 'rubra', and I seriously
doubt that if this is a (valid name), it has survived temperatures
to -20F. But if someone does know please let me know! Maybe Robert
Riffle can shed some light on the subject! BTW, I did see it
posted on Peter's CRDB.
- Palms hardy in Zone 7 - James Ballance 06:15:03
5/26/00 (1)
Is there any palm species that is hardy to zone 7? I want that palm
tree effect on my patio and there is no room to nanny one through the
winter indoors. Any help appreciated! I will go to reasonable effort
to give winter protection. Thanks.
- Re: Palms hardy in Zone 7 - Alan Brooks 04:14:47
5/28/00 (0)
Try one of these:
Minimum USDA
Genera Species
Temperature Zone
Butia bonnettii 9°F (-12.8°C) 7b
Nannorrhops
ritchiana grey-green 7.1°F (-13.9°C) 7b
Rhapidophyllum
hystrix 5.5°F (-14.7°C) 7b
Sabal louisiana 6.1°F
(-14.4°C) 7b
Sabal minor 5.5°F (-14.7°C) 7b
Sabal minor(NE TX ecotype) -8°F (-22.2°C) 6a
Sabal
umbraculifera 8.5°F (-13.1°C) 7b
Sabal xtexensis
4.8°F (-15.1°C) 7a
Trachycarpus fortunei 9.1°F
(-12.8°C) 7b
Trachycarpus latisectus 1°F (-17.3°C)
7a
Trachycarpus nanus 7°F (-13.9°C) 7b
Trachycarpus
takil 5.3°F (-14.9°C) 7b
Trachycarpus wagnerianus
9.5°F (-12.5°C) 7b
I found them at CRDB
Also
check out http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/palmferndc/palms/index.html
www.thecooltropics.com
Some sources of the plants:
www.coldhardypalms.com (online
catalog)
www.exoticfruit.com (you must order and pay for their
catalog, but its worth it, very unusual)
www.netropic.com
(online catalog)
Good Luck
- Robelini Palms - Joe and Karen Coe 20:33:59
5/23/00 (1)
My husband and I live in Grand Prairie TX, just south of Dallas.
Approximately 8 weeks ago, we planted 3 Texas Windmill and 3 Robolini
palm trees around our swimming pool. We have these trees and a mixture
of other plants in a large bed with sand rather than mulch. We have 2
Robolini's that really look bad. They have few palms and the ones that
are in, have turned brown. Some people have told us they are in shock
and to use root stimulator, miracle grow and Consan/Confin on them. We
have done all of this and still the 2 trees look pitiful. Do you have
any suggestions or advice.
- Re: Robelini Palms - Gary (South Texas) 21:31:23
5/23/00 (0)
Hi Joe and Karen,
The problem might be the sand, although I
have seen a number of P. roebelenii growing in sand, I believe
that a certain amount of soil amendments were used to provide the
sand with some body, and the ability to hold water and nutrients.
The pygmy date palm likes lots of water and little extra nitrogen
to look thier best. Did you acclimate the palms before planting? I
would not fertilize until palms have stablized and show signs of
new growth.
- Landscaping with Majesty Palms - Kevin 23:28:07
5/22/00 (1)
I am located in Santa Barbara, about 4 miles inland (Sunset zone
23/24). I have a Ravenea Rivularis as a houseplant and it does well.
My garden is in full sun until 3PM, when full shade hits. I have 2 P.
Roebelenii doing well (although they yellowed a bit their first 6
months they are fine now), as well as hibiscus (whitefly not
withstanding) and bananas. I would like to clump together 3 Ravenea
Rivularis (or are they R. Glauca?). Since they are widely available
for only about 12 bucks as houseplants it is a fairly low risk
venture, but...
- What can I expect size-wise in 5 years? 10
years? Will they be 40 meter giants? How long before the trunk begins
to form?
- I have read that yellowing occurs in full sun
situations. What other migitating factors might there be regarding
yellowing? Is there some nutrient that I can use to prevent this - I
use Peter's on young plants 2-3X per year.
- I have never seen
Majestys for sale as landscaping plants. Any tips on sun-hardening one
bred as a houseplant?
- Re: Landscaping with Majesty Palms - Robert Lee
Riffle 10:50:58 5/23/00 (0)
Ravenea are true water lovers. In their native habitat they are
only found at the edges of streams/lakes. They are also fast
growers with water and good soil. As for the yellowing it won't
occur (except maybe in hot tropical deserts) if the palm gets
enough water and nutrients. A complete palm fertilizer with trace
elements is best. Under optimal conditions a 5-gal palm should
have a trunk of two to three feet in five years. In nature the
things grow 60-ft. trunks and their crowns are well above any
surrounding vegetation-- this means they can deal with full sun;
but they can also look very good in partial shade, especially when
young.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Oleander Roots - Tony O. 08:02:11 5/21/00 (1)
. How deep (or invasive) are the roots on an older Oleander plant?
Do they spread out more toward the surface, or go down, or both? I'm
asking because I thinking of planting near a septic line.
- Re: Oleander Roots - Robert Lee Riffle 10:44:21
5/23/00 (0)
Tony, in general oleander roots are more near the surface than,
say a mimosa tree. However, as with all landscape subjects, root
mass depends on a number of factors, the most important of which
is rainfall/irrigation: if regular watering occurs the roots won't
go nearly as deep as they will (must) in their native habitats
(dry areas of the Mediterranean/ Middle East). The septic tank
poses a different problem: if it leaks in any way ANY plant other
than small, herbaceous thangs will sense (the root hairs will
sense) the moisture beneath, and seek it out. So it depends on how
deep the tank is and how much moisture it emits.
- Samaan tree? - Lee Mullen 09:18:34 5/20/00 (2)
Anyone know what a samaan tree is,as a mate brought some seeds back
from Tobago,also how does one germinate them?
- Re: Samaan tree? - Robert Lee Riffle 09:47:10
5/20/00 (1)
Lee, the saman tree is an Albizia species (formerly in its own
genus (Saman): Albizia saman. It is similar in overall appearance
to what's called "mimosa" (Albizia julibrissin) in the
States; but it grows very much bigger and is infinitely more
beautiful. At maturity it is one of the glories of the tropical
plant world attaining a height of about 60 feet and sometimes
twice that width, with one of the most beautiful shapes of any
tree (to my mind). It is not cold tolerant (hails from tropical
America, including Trinidad/Tobago) and is somewhat marginal in
USDA zone 10a.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- pencil tree (euphorbia tirucalli) question - Nancy
Phillips 22:11:57 5/19/00 (3)
Greetings,
We've just inherited a lovely (though slightly wild
looking) pencil tree from a friend who moved from town. Unfortunately,
he left no handling instructions for the feeding and caring of this
beauty. It is out on a shady patio at the moment; and is putting out
new leaves. Do they prefer shade/sun? How well do they do in dry hot
climates like ours here in southeasten New Mexico? Can it be pruned?
When? How much? Thanks for your help. Your site is wonderful.
- Re: pencil tree (euphorbia tirucalli) question - Robert
Lee Riffle 00:50:01 5/20/00 (2)
Nancy--Euphorbia tirucalli is native to fairly dry regions of
central Africa and is, therefore, tolerant of drought conditions.
It also grows in full sun in its native habitat. Under container
cultivation the soil/medium should be watered when the top inch of
same is completely dry. As implied above, it is quite happy in
full sun--BUT do not place ANY plant that has been shade-grown
into full sun without acclimating it gradually to same: ANY plant
(even cactus) will be severely damaged by such transference. Also
be sure to bring the plant into frost sheltered area when threat
of freezing comes.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Re: pencil tree (euphorbia tirucalli) question - Jana
23:17:17 5/20/00 (1)
If you decide to prune, be careful of the milky sap. I don't
know this from personal experience, but I've been told that
the sap will cause severe pain and even blindness if it comes
in contact with your eyes. Ours is doing great and seems to be
racing with the palm trees, each one wanting to be the
tallest.
- germinate Bombax malabaricum, Red Silk-Cotton Tree seeds? -
Mike 21:25:27 5/18/00 (1)
Just received seed of Bombax malabaricum, Red Silk-Cotton Tree from
India. I grow plenty of tropicals but am completely unfamiliar with
germinating seed of the Bombaceae. Has anyone sucessfully grown from
seed....or have any tips? I appreciate any and all info -- Thanks!
Mike
- Re: germinate Bombax malabaricum, Red Silk-Cotton Tree seeds?
- Robert Lee Riffle 00:44:40 5/20/00 (0)
Mike--They are easy to germinate given warmth and moisture.
Bombax ceiba (the latest name for B. malabaricum) produces flowers
and sets fruit at the end of the dry season in monsoonal parts of
southeastern Asia. After the young tree is established it is
fairly drought tolerant, but does best with regular amounts of
moisture.
--Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- requirements for langsat? - Marcelo 21:04:45
5/16/00 (1)
I have sprouted fresh seeds of langsat (Lansium domesticum), a SE
Asian fruit. Has anyone tried to raise this before, or have any
further information on it? Thanks!
- RE: Sago Palm Golden egg Pod>>what is it??? - Carla
14:58:58 5/14/00 (1)
I have this beautiful sago. It is about 5 years old. It now has
produced this large golden egg pod. What is it? Can I reproduce
another plant from it, if I can it off and plant it? Can anyone tell
me whatbit is?
- Re: RE: Sago Palm Golden egg Pod>>what is it??? -
Jim Dorsey 20:59:42 5/14/00 (0)
Hi Carla,
Sounds to me like you have a male Cycas revoluta
(King Sago)that is producing a cone. Cycads are either male or
female. The female produces a round cone, while the male's is
elongated. I have read that the pollen of either the male or
female should not be inhaled. Check out Tom Broome's website on
cycads at: Cycadjungle.8m.com. He also has a bulletin board there
on cycads. Best, Jim
- CHINA DOLL (radermachera sinica) - Carri 17:30:36
5/13/00 (1)
I have a new China Doll plant, kept in permanent shade but good
light. Location = S. California. Understand it has problems re.
overgrowth and turns "leggy". Apparently nipping new growth
prevents this. Can any one explain exactly how to prevent this please?
The tree is about 4.5 ft high and I would rather it did not start to
manically grow and lose it's $80 charm!!
It is a beautiful plant and I worry that I have purchased something
that requires considerable care!
Thanks for any advise shared.
- Re: CHINA DOLL (radermachera sinica) - Gary (South
Texas) 21:55:01 5/13/00 (0)
CM,
Just pinch off the tops of the plant. They can and do
get leggy, ours is growing in full sun and in the ground, one
trunk is about 20 feet in height with 2 about 10 to 15 feet. There
are 5 or more new stems (suckers) that will, if left unchecked,
grow into thick trunks to about the same height. If plant gets too
tall just cut it back it will regrow the from stem or from the
base of the plant.
- sago palm - ron 21:21:16 5/12/00 (2)
my sago palm has yellow areas on the leaves. what causes this? what
can be done?
- Re: sago palm - Carla 15:05:08 5/14/00 (0)
Ron,
Do you feed your palms food?It sounds like they might
need nutrients.I suggest that you feed them every other month. My
palms are now 5 years old and have tripled in size. You can buy
palm food at any nursery.
- Re: sago palm - Carla 14:48:20 5/14/00 (0)
My Saga Palm has this beautiful new growth on it. It looks like
a golden egg. Is this a new plant? Can I cut this new growth offf
and transplant it. Can any one tell me anything about it? Thank
you
- Cook Pine Trees (Araucaria columnaris) - M. Kowalski
13:06:36 5/09/00 (1)
I live in San Bernadino County (California). My wife and I just
returned from Maui. She wants a Cook Pine tree. Does anyone know if it
will survive in this mostly desert climate? If so, does anyone know
where in the counties of San Bernardino, Riverside, Orange or LA I can
get one? Thanks.
- Re: Cook Pine Trees (Araucaria columnaris) - george
in bandon,oregon 01:18:31 5/10/00 (0)
pacific tree farms in chula vista, 619-422-2400 lists the
species in their catalog. hard to tell about how well it might do
in the desert. would probably want a protected, cool, and
semi-shaded spot with plenty of water in the of water in the
summer.
- camito (sp?) from Philipeans - Marilyn Couture 14:14:28
5/05/00 (1)
Does anyone have information re: camito fruit from Philipeans? I
have access to tree and seeds.
- Re: camito (sp?) from Philipeans - Robert Lee Riffle
01:13:10 5/06/00 (0)
The tree in question is Chrysophyllum cainito, most often called
"cainito." It is not native to the Philippines but
rather the Caribbean and Central America. It grows to about 50
feet in cultivation (with time) and has a dense crown of
strikingly beautiful leaves that are green on top and a silky
cinnamon benetah. Its fruits are similar to pomegranetes and are
sweet when rifpe but astringent when not. The plant can stand but
a touch of frost and needs full sun, warmth and lots of water (ina
well drained site) during the long growing season (summer).
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Cestrum nocturnum - have you heard of? - Adriana 15:50:37
5/04/00 (3)
This is a tree/bush the grows profuselly in BRasil and I wonder if
anybody had seen it here in the USA. It releases a wonderful perfum at
night (jasmin like).
Thanks.
- Re: Cestrum nocturnum - have you heard of? - Steve
21:22:31 5/26/00 (0)
I'm curious if anyone has grown a ylang-ylang indoors or in a
conservatory.
Will they bloom indoors, and how big/how old
before they begin blooming?
Also, how fast do they grow?
Like
others on this board, I'm in love with the scent and would love to
grow this plant.
Good growing!
Jim Freeman
- Re: Cestrum nocturnum - have you heard of? - Esteban
12:51:20 5/11/00 (0)
We have this plant if you are interested.on a scale of 1-10
C.nocturnum is a 5-6 in Puerto wheras the Brunsfelsia americana is
a 9 and Murraya paniculata is a solid 10
The Epiphyllum
oxypetalum is also a 10.She throws a 8-10" flower at night
and is gone by noon the next dayAs Riffle states she is called "Reina
de la Noche".B.americana is "Dama de la Noche"
Esteban McGrath
Loresco Tropical Plants
San
Juan,Puerto Rico
- Re: Cestrum nocturnum - have you heard of? - Robert
Lee Riffle 01:13:16 5/05/00 (0)
Adriana--
It's actually a very commonly grown plant in all
regions of the globe that do not have cold winters; and is not
native to Brazil, but rather the Caribbean Basin. It's easy to
grow in only a "decent" soil with good drainage and at
least half a day's sun. TWO of its common names are "lady of
the night" (!) and "night- blooming jasmine;"
although the former monicker is also used for at least two species
of night- blooming cactus and the cestrum is, in no way, related
to either cactus species or true jasmines. It's actually related
to the tomato/potato/ nightshades.
- How fast/slow do coconut palms grow? - George Vallejo
18:30:21 4/30/00 (4)
I would like to have a couple coconut palms grow in my yard. For
that reason, I have planted some coconuts, hoping they will germinate.
My question is, how fast/slow does the trunk grow? I would like to see
their trunk at about 5 to 6 feet in height. How many years do I have
to wait ? Thank you.
- Re: How fast/slow do coconut palms grow? - Jim Dorsey
20:12:29 5/01/00 (3)
Hi George,
I hope you planted your nuts in the shade. I
have never had a coconut sprout in full sun! I have had nuts
sprout within 3 weeks of planting and some take 8-9 months to
sprout. Nuts I planted beside my driveway 10 years ago are now
bearing nuts for the second year. They are about 30 feet tall. The
largest one's trunk is 80 inches around and has about 6 feet of
clear trunk. From seed, I got an average of 3 feet of growth each
year. They like a lot of water when it is hot and plenty of
fertilizer. Best, Jim
- Re: How fast/slow do coconut palms grow? - Andy
11:54:55 5/05/00 (2)
I share the information about germination time frame, some
come in a short time ( I guess they have pre-germinated on the
tree....), others can take up to 8 months. 8 years to bear
fruit?? Hm... that must be a tall variety. Most 'dwarf'
varieties bear fruit in about 3 - 4 years, with about 2 - 3 ft
of clear trunk.
One issue I don't agree on: Planting a coconut in full sun
is a pratice here in Florida... ( I do it, others do it), and
they seem to sprout quite quickly this way, provided the
planting medium is adequately moist!
Regards.
Andy
- Re: sprouting in sun vs. shade - Jim Dorsey
18:36:43 5/05/00 (1)
: Andy
Hi Andy,
As a hobbyist grower, I planted
60 nuts in full sun. Not one sprouted. While visiting
Palmco Nursery (one of the largest growers of Coconut
palms in Fl.)on Pine Island I noticed they had literally
thousands of nuts in the shade. Since then I have always
planted in the shade. I am not so concerned about speed of
germination as I am with rate of germination. I was
getting 0% now I get 65 - 100% germination. I have visited
most nurseries in Naples and Fort Meyers as well as many
on the South-east coast. I have never seen coconuts being
sprouted in full sun.
Andy, I don't mean to imply
that I am arguing with you. Not at all. I am only relaying
my experiences and observations. Best, Jim Dorsey
- Re: sprouting in sun vs. shade - Andy
19:19:41 5/08/00 (0)
I am sure both ways work fine, even if you don't
produce as many seedlings in the sun as in the shade.I
was thinking about it.. maybe it has to do something
with the level of moisture? To germinate a coconut
seed, the medium has to stay nicely moist thruout the
germination time. This can be done so much easier in
the shade than in the sun. My coconuts are being
misted once a day, so my planting medium is nicely
moist which makes for easy penetration of the husk.
Also, I looked up some old reference material.. and
I quote from Dave Romney's book "Growing Coconuts
in South Florida", on page 10, it states "Seed
germination should be done in the open sun. The lower
temperatures under shade slow down germination;
seedlings grown under shade grow more slowly and
become etiolated." Thought I'd share with you all
:)
- How do you propogate an Areca Palm? - Betsy 16:55:01
4/30/00 (1)
I was reading your message board,(very helpful) and a guy asked
about a Pygmy date palm. I was going to ask if anyone knew about how
to divide/propogate an Areca Palm, but now I have more questions!
I have a healthy Areca Palm with many little suckers, and have read
very vague instructions on how to propogate them by dividing. How do
you do this? Just pull them out?
Now I was wondering about this: That one guy asked about his palm,
and you told him that what he should do is remove all the leaves from
the plant when it is repotted. Do I do that here? What should I do?
- Re: How do you propagate an Areca Palm? - Jim
20:04:22 5/01/00 (0)
Hi Betsy,
If you can remove a sucker or sprout (from the
mother trunk) with roots on it, it may grow. Without roots, it is
highly unlikely to grow. In either case, it chance of survival are
greatly improved if you remove ALL leaves, place it in the shade
and keep moist but not wet.
BTW, if you have a mature plant,
why not just plant seeds? They sprout in less than 2 months. Best,
Jim Dorsey Naples, Florida
- Tell us about Guanabanas - Shelley Mike 22:42:24
4/29/00 (1)
We have six of these plants and would like to know something about
them. Where do they come from? How do they grow best? How often do
they fruit? Can we grow them in the North Island of New Zealand?
We are hoping this is an untapped market in New Zealand.
- Re: Tell us about Guanabanas - Esteban 13:01:14
5/11/00 (0)
Annona muricotta...grows best in Tropical conditions @ 350-750
alt.to avoid the insect pressure assosciated at sea level.They
love a pH of 6.6 -8.0 or so.A 4 yr old tree will start to set some
poor fruit,but until you have the fruit on a 5-8 yr old tree,make
tea from the leaves .At least that is what we have done.The tea
cures every thing from flat feet to Gonarea.And tastes excellent
with cinnamom,clove and limon together.
If you want fresh seed
in commercial lots,I can supply.but be advised you will need a
phyto and thats about $50.00 to start with.
- Banana hardy to -20*F - Indiana Gardener 09:57:23
4/27/00 (1)
I am in zone 5b, northern Indiana. There is a man in northeast Ohio
that claims he has a banana tree hardy to -20*F. His has two
offshoots, but will not be ready for sale until next year. I was
really looking forward to getting one this year. He said it gets
10'-13' tall in one season and will set fruit if mulched good enough.
Does any one out there have any such banana tree for trade? Please
send any suggestions to woodyworker1@yahoo.com Thanks.
- Philodenron selloum taking over!! - Sundance 20:29:17
4/26/00 (5)
I've had a very hardy, vigorous, "two-trunk" P. selloum
for maybe 15 years now, adn kept it thriving in No. KY by taking it in
under lights every winter and giving it a bigger pot every few years.
It is now quite large, with the trunks being about 2 feet high (lots
of aerial roots) and seems ready for a new pot. I bought a 55-gallon
oak wine barrel with the idea of using this (the whole barrel!) as a
new pot. I'm wondering if it would be OK to bury some or all of the
trunk into the new soil when I repot, so as to promote root growth (?)
from the trunk and produce an even stronger plant, with less height. I
don't want to rot the trunk, but it would fit more neatly into the
barrel if I could bury the trunks and set the new dirt level at the
point the leaves are currently taking off from the trunk. I don't want
to rot it, however... Any experts out there who can tell me if this
plant will throw roots out of the trunk if buried, or whether it will
just rot the trunks??? Appreciate any help with this.
- Re: Philodenron selloum taking over!! - John 14:24:05
4/27/00 (4)
Get it in the ground!
- Re: Philodenron selloum taking over!! - SUNDANCE
21:51:40 4/29/00 (3)
Wish I could, but it wouldn't survive the winter here in
Northern Kentucky. My question is whether burying part of the
stem, where the leaves have fallen off and left callouses, and
aerial roots are coming out, will cause the stem to rot, or
encourage more root development from the stem itself. Anyone
have an answer (or even an opinion)?
- Re: Philodenron selloum taking over!! - Lee,Chester,UK
Z9 13:51:16 5/02/00 (0)
I wouldn't think it would cause the stem to rot.do you
have cold damp winters,I have mate a few miles away who
has overwintered his small plant OK.
- Re: Philodenron selloum taking over!! - Dave
Poole (Torquay UK) 23:47:31 4/29/00 (1)
Considering the severity of your winters, I suspect you
are quite right to overwinter indoors. Philodendron
selloum may manage to cope with moderate levels of
frost, but prolonged freezes could and probably would do a
lot of damage.
As to burying the trunk deeper, you can safely do this
right up to just below the leaf bases if you want. The
existing 'air' roots will quickly adapt to a subterranean
existence with the buried portions of the trunk sending
out more roots. In time, the lowest parts may die away,
but the upper parts will be growing so strongly that you
won't notice.
- Re: Philodenron selloum taking over!! - SUNDANCE
20:38:01 4/30/00 (0)
Thanks for the response, kind sir! Braced by your
assurances, I tackled the monster today, and sank it
deep into the oak wine barrel (just short of the
existing elephantine leaves). Crikey! The whole
assemblage must have weighed 500 pounds (no
exaggeration). The oaken barrel was a good 150# (with
a layer of pea gravel), the plant itself an estimated
80-100#, and I added 12 20# bags of potting soil. Had
to add air to the tires on my hand cart to move it
into the backyard! Anyway, the project's done, and I
appreciate your advice. I'll trust a Brit for
gardening advice any day! (My mother-in-law grew up
near Devon, and lives in Phoenix now.) Anyway, the P.
Goliathus is now happily ensconced in new quarters,
and we'll see what new heights the summer will bring.
Thanks again!
- What's with my Pygmy Date Palm (Phoenix Roebelinii)? - Patrick
21:59:44 4/23/00 (7)
I divided my Pygmy Date Palm (Phoenix Robellini) around March, which
is the ideal time to divide and repot this speices of palm. I
propogated some by dividing the plant and potting the rooted offsets.
All went well for about a week.
The mother plant is seriously ailing, all of its fronds dried up and
wilted, drooping down. The new spikes in the center appeared to be
doing well, but are now drying up. All of the new plants that I have
propogated did well for a while, then died. I am a little concerned,
because I'm not sure what I did wrong.
Did I overwater? Or are they just suffering from transplant shock?
What should I do?
Any help would be great!! THANKS!!
-Patrick
- Re: What's with my Pygmy Date Palm (Phoenix Roebelinii)?
- Jim Dorsey 17:52:45 4/24/00 (6)
Hi Patrick, My first question is: how big it this palm?
Secondly, Pygmy's typically are not clumping palms. Are you sure
it is a Pygmy? When dividing palms, it is a good idea to remove
ALL fronds except the emerging spear, keep in the shade, and don't
water the stem only the soil. Also, if the roots were seriously
cut, do NOT fertilize as the roots may burn. Hope this helps.Best,
Jim
- I'm sure it's a Pygmy Date Palm . . . - Patrick
20:17:13 4/24/00 (5)
Thanks Jim for the information!
My palm is (was) about 2 1/2, 3 feet in height before I
divided it.
I'm sure that it is a Pygmy Date Palm, as it was the name on
the pot that it came with, and it matches the pictures in this
one time life guide to house plants. The guide I have talks
about how you can separate the suckers as they appear, and
propogate from them. Mine sure had suckers! (about 5 or 6 of
them!) Is what is happening to my palm normal from
repotting/propogating?
THANKS!!
Patrick
- Re: I'm sure it's a Pygmy Date Palm . . . - Jim
19:51:30 4/25/00 (4)
Hi Patrick,
It is my understanding that the
clumping pygmy was only recently discovered. Maybe 3 years
ago. I got some seed from that initial shipment. My
clumping pygmy is now only about 1-1 1/2 feet tall.
My guess is that what you have is either a senegal date
(reclinata) or a cross of a pygmy and a reclinata. When I
worked in a nursery, we would receive a shipment of
several hundred pygmy sprouts. With out fail, in every
shipment several would turn out to be reclinata. The
easiest way to tell is when they clumped. Also, reclinatas
grow faster and have heavier thorns (spines).
Now,
back to your plant. Have you removed all fronds from the
plants? Very important to do this. When a palm suffers a
severe root loss, it no longer has the ability to take up
enough moisture to replace the moisture lost through the
leaves. The only moisture available to the leaves is the
moisture stored in the stem or trunk. When that moisture
is used up, the plant dies. By removing the fronds, you
are helping the plant prevent water loss. Once the palm
has sprouted out new leaves, that is a indication that it
now has roots to supply them with moisture. By keeping the
plant in the shade, the stem will have less stress and
water loss as well. Once new fronds start to emerge, the
plant is then save to move back into the sun. By not
watering the plant, you reduce the risk of mold, mildew
and fungus while the plant is trying to recover. The SOIL
should be kept moist but not wet. But don't water the
plant itself. Also, it is important to keep the plants
warm. 80F - 90F. It appears palms slow their growth rate
considerably when it is cooler. BTW, where are you
located? Hope this helps. Best, Jim Dorsey
- Re: I'm sure it's a Pygmy Date Palm . . . -
Patrick 16:15:49 4/26/00 (3)
Jim,
THANKS AGAIN!!
I didn't know that you should remove the fronds from
the plants!! I did now, though. When you say "Don't
water the plant itself" do you mean, set the pot
in a dish of water and let it take up the water on its
own, or water only the soil, taking special care not
to get the trunk wet?
I am in Western New York around Buffalo. My palms
enjoy the humid summers but are kept indoors on days
which are cool.
I will do as you say, and I thank you again!
Patrick
- Re: watering a Pygmy Date Palm . . . -
Jim Dorsey 17:00:47 4/27/00 (2)
Patrick, I think either method you've suggested
will work fine for watering. My biggest concern
was, that if you were in south Fl. , with our heat
and humidity you may have problems with the stem
getting too wet. Best, Jim
- seeds from HI - Trina 14:12:11 4/22/00 (4)
I received three seeds last year from Hawaii. These seeds (pinto
bean size)were dark brown with a lighter brown tiger striping. They
are growing well, lots of sun and water. They have almond shaped,
light green leaves, and the trunk is getting woody. These plants have
also developed thorns. Any help as to what they are?
- Re: seeds from HI - Gary (South Texas) 16:28:32
4/22/00 (3)
Sounds like a Coral tree (Erythrina sp.)Leaves are light to dark
green, 3 lobed ovate leaves on prickly branches (also some of the
leaves have thorns) Does the woody trunk look like cork? There are
about 100 species and most grow in tropical to subtropical regions
but some are very hardy and can regrow from roots if frozen back.
Flowers are spectacular! Erythrina
crista-galli
- Majesty Palm soil--attn: bart - Frank 20:51:10
4/21/00 (2)
You have said for the Majesty Palm: "I use 50% potting soil and
50% small bark nuggets" We've got ours set up indoors. How do you
set up the pot? Potting soil in first with nuggets on top? Thanks
- Re: Majesty Palm soil--attn: bart - bart 05:22:19
4/22/00 (1)
Hi Frank, Majesty's, as with most palms, love or thrive in a
near rootbound condition their whole "container" life,
so plan to pot up about every two years. Make sure you see about
75% roots when you pull out the plant to inspect the palms root
mass, before potting up, and generally into pot about 2-4 inches
wider 4-8 inches deeper than original . Then get a bucket or
whatever you have, even the ground, pour equal parts potting soil
and mini bark nuggets and mix together for a short time to get an
even consistancy of medium. Put about 1" of plain bark or
bark nuggets into the pot first, to keep drain holes open for the
two year period, then put at least 2"-3" of soil/bark
nugget mix into pot, gently set palm into pot, gage depth so the
root/trunk divide is about two inches below lip of given pot, hold
palm in place, and with other hand gently fill in with soil/bark
mix, gently pack on top and push fingers gently along sides,
lightly packing soil. Water heavily and add a little more mix to
keep soil and base of trunk at about 2" below lip of pot, you
may need to pull up a little, and repack to get it at the right
height. If the mix is 50/50 you should be just about able to
direct the hose into pot without it ever overflowing due to good
drainage. With a 50/50 mix, water about every 4 days when temps
are 60-80 degrees, every 3 days when 80-90 degrees, and every day
when approaching 100 degrees, to avoid any leaf burn, leaves burn
when the soil is zapped of moisture which can happen in a day at
high temps.
If you can only water once a week use a higher percentage of
potting soil in your mix to hold moisture longer. I have come full
circle after experimenting with countless soil
mixes(vermiculite,perlite- which floats away, soil retentitive
soils- which kill everything by never drying out at regular
intervals, and countless high end expensive soil ideas I have read
about, or been told about by numerous curator friends around the
world. They all will work, but my success rate is much higher
using 50/50 potting soil and mini bark nuggets. One additive I
still have great success with, dare I mention, which is definitely
not necessary, is pine tree dung. Which is the soil that has
composted under pine trees under the fallen needle layer, this "dung"
is a super additive, however is not available in stores, as far as
I know, but can be found wherever a pine grove can be found.
Supplement the pine mix from the potting soil (usually a large
handful for a 5 gallon pot), with 50% mini bark. Hundreds of
species of tropicals seem to benifit with this additive, but could
be troublesome to find. I have about a 95%success rate with all
tropicals with or without pine dung, with specimens in a 4"
container or larger. SEEDLINGS are a different story. Honestly, I
have only about a 25% success rate with "tropical grass
blades" or seedlings, due to rot, which hurts, seeming never
able to master a technique with the tender species, hardy types
have a much higher percentage, but the challenge is small and I
really do not try or have space for them. I hope this helps
everybody......
- cananga odorata under glass - Jim Freeman 20:12:51
4/20/00 (1)
I'm curious if anyone has grown a ylang-ylang indoors or in a
conservatory. Will they bloom indoors, and how big/how old before they
begin blooming? Also, how fast do they grow? Like others on this
board, I'm in love with the scent and would love to grow this plant.
Good growing! Jim Freeman
- Cycas Revoluta Pups - David J Jr 23:50:02 4/16/00
(4)
While doing my first general garden pruning of my new house, I
decided to trim most of the leaves on a Sago Palm which no one
appeared to have ever trimmed. While doing so, I realized the size of
the trunk was much larger than I had imagined (roughly 1' diameter &
2-3' tall)! Then as I was raking away debris from the base area, I
found some honeydew sized bulbs that appear to have chutes or
something ready to spread out like new leaves? I later found out that
these bulbs are "pups".
I know that my sago is about to produce new leaves because I can see
the large chute in the middle, is this the wrong time to pull the pups
off of the base? And if I decide to wait on the pup removal, do the
pups produce leaves of their own while afixed to the main trunk of the
"mother" tree? Finally; If sago's are either male or female,
and a female's flower needs the pollen from of male's cone to
pollenate, and then produce seed to later germinate, How is it that MY
plant has pups with no other sago around in miles? Thank you in
advance for any advice/knowledge (everything I know about sagos is
only from one evening's "sago-surf" on the net).
- Re: Cycas Revoluta Pups - Jim Dorsey 19:03:43
4/17/00 (3)
Hi David, Check out Tom Broome's site: cycadjungle.8m.com He is
an expert and grower of cycads. At his site, he also has a cycad
bulletin board. Many plants sucker. Pollen isn't required for
that. All pups will be the same sex as the parent. To get seeds is
when pollen is required. Best, Jim Dorsey Naples, Fl.
- Palms in Austin - Laura 12:39:56 4/16/00 (1)
I have a healthy Texas sabal palm tree, but I don't know much about
maintenance. Should I cut off the lower branches as they yellow? Do I
ever need to fertilize the tree? Also - I have 4 sego palms, and 2 are
not doing too well. They are transplants from the Gulf coast area and
are partially yellow. They are planted in the ground in mostly sunny
areas. Any advice?
- Re: Palms in Austin - Adriana 20:30:18
4/25/00 (0)
Hi Laura, I'm also looking for information about growing palms
in Austin, I just moved here. I'm planning to grow a tropical
looking garden on my new backyard. I'll send you information if I
get any. Good Luck.
- Planting Sago (Cabbage) palms from seeds - Ron Wilson
09:22:18 4/13/00 (1)
Here in St Augustine Fl there are many native "Cabbage"
palms that bear countless seeds. Is it practical to plant these seeds
- and if so how would one go about it? Thanks, RW
- Re: Planting Sago (Cabbage) palms from seeds - Mike
in Houston, z9a 01:26:30 4/14/00 (0)
They sprout quickly during warm weather. Plant them about 1/2
inch deep in a good sandy loam. If you like you can start them
first in 'community' pots by planting many seeds in one pot. After
they sprout they can be transplanted to individual pots. But since
they sprout so quickly, you might want to just plant them in
one-gallon pots to start.
Keep the seeds well watered and warm. They are seemingly slow
starting out, looking more like grass than palms, but after a
couple of years the small grass like leaves begin to mature and
form characteristic palmate leaves. The tree does not form a trunk
until the leaves have reached full size, then it begins to grow
up. This may be 3 to 5 years.
Because Sabal palms are slow to mature and so common in the
Florida countryside, they are seldom sold at nurseries as small
plants. They are however attractive when small and one surely
feels a sense of accomplishment when a little seed forms a
full-grown tree. I have done just that and some of my Sabal
palmettos are 25 feet tall now.
- Musa Rajapuri - Lee,Chester,UK Z9 12:52:07
4/12/00 (1)
I've just picked up one and would appreciate any
information/cultivation on this banana.
- Re: Musa Rajapuri - Gary (South Texas) 17:08:58
4/12/00 (0)
Hi Lee,
Rajapuri, is a very hardy banana, that is easy to
grow as the plant is small (1.8m to 2.4m). Is somewhat wind
resistant, with a very stout base. Fruit is very sweet and about
medium sized. They fruit every year for us here in South Texas.
It's one of our favorites!
- Majestic Palm - Water, Soggy and brown-- Oh my ! - Randall
C. Decker 22:24:29 4/11/00 (2)
I have read your advise on giving Majestic Palms plenty of water,
but at the same time not to let them sit in soggy soil. How do I
prevent this? I try to water often, but my plants stay so moist all
the time that I am afraid that I may be hurting the plant. Are brown
tips and yellowing an indication of dehydrating, over watering, or
something else. I can still save these two beautiful plants. Please
help !!
- Re: Majestic Palm - Water, Soggy and brown-- Oh my ! -
bart 02:11:06 4/20/00 (1)
Randall,
If their in pots yank em out, if their in the
ground yank em out. replace soil with good drainage (I use half
potting soil, half mini bark nuggets, works fantastic on about
everything.) In the ground you should dig up a large area and
replace with the same said mixture, now brown tips usually means
lack of proper water, where the salts(hard compounds or minerals
in water)are not flushed out with enough water, usually in potted
specimens, that are watered slightly. If they are in the ground,
and the ground is a clay like substance or not draining, you may
need to mound up, or set root mass on level ground and put copius
amounts of properly drained soil all aroud so when you water, it
can drain away from plants, a hole in a claylike soil is basically
a coffin and will soon cause the plant to rot and wither away...
Good drainage and lots of water, brite filtered lite, warmth
and no frost equals fast growing majesty's or just about all
rainforest plants,palms and trees, good luck...
- Kentia Palm - Pat 14:30:46 4/09/00 (2)
I bought a kentia palm about 6 years ago with 4 stems from about 3
to 5 feet tall. It was doing just fine for about 3 years. Then one
winter, one of the taller and older stems started turning yellow. This
yellowing progressed gradually so that in about 3 to 4 weeks the
entire stalk was all brown, dry and dead. So I cut it off and the rest
of the plant was fine. However, the next winter the same thing
happened to the next tallest stem. About a year later, it happened
again to another stem. Currently I just have one stem left, the
smallest and youngest. It seems to be healthy and even has new growth.
But I've gone from a nice tall and full kentia to a smaller thinner
one. Since I've had the plant, I've always kept it in the same
location where it gets low to medium light. No direct sun. It is near
a south window but well off to the side. I water once about every
1-1/2 weeks, normally waiting till the top soil has dried out. I have
average house temps, but live in the NE so it's dry in winter. This
plant was expensive and I would like to avoid losing the remaining
stalk to the same fate that took the others. I'm figuring the problem
is 1) underwatering, 2) too small a pot (it's currently in about a 13"
container), or 3) some sort of soil condition the plant doesn't like
such as an improper pH or a nutritional deficiency. But I really have
no strong clue as to the problem and would appreciate some diagnosis
and advice. As for pot size, I was going to repot the plant around the
time I lost the first stem, but after I lost it I figured the plant
would have less need for water due to its reduced size and held off.
As the plant kept losing stems, I continued to hold off potting it up
to a larger pot ... Thanks!
- Re: Kentia Palm - Robert Lee Riffle 23:16:49
4/09/00 (1)
Pat, it most likely has not been getting enough water. Are there
drainage holes in the bottom of the pot? If not transplant
immediately to a container WITH holes. The kentia should be
watered when the top half-inch of the soil is dry. Now that there
is only the one small plant left it's possbile to overwater; so it
might be best to repot in any case. It definitely was not
potbound. Another possibility is that there IS some pathogen in
the soil; but this seems unlikely if the palms did well for so
long and then suddenly started dying. I thinl repotting is in
order. And, when you do so, look for insects, a nasty odor, etc.
- Re: Kentia Palm - Bart 03:59:41 4/20/00
(0)
pat, sounds like nasty soil. kentia's are very hardy, can be
grown in brite filtered light or in deep shade. "Palms",
in containers, love to be in a near rootbound state their
whole container life. They will stunt or croak when
overpotted, pot up to the nearest size: 1gal to 5 gal to 15gal
or 1" liner to 2" liner to citrus pot etc. In your
case, treat it as follows: lay pot on side and gently press
sides till plant pulls out easily.
Gently remove all soil and remove dead plant parts and
roots, trying not to damage solid roots, after 6 years in the
same soil I would even flush roots with water to get rid of
mushy soil. Next make a mixture of 50% potting soil and 50%
mini bark nuggets, put into a pot that is a fairly tight fit
for good roots, careful not to snap roots. First, fill bottom
1/3 with said mixture, gently insert plant, hold upright and
gently fill in said mix, leaving soil level and crown about 1
1\2" from top lip of pot. Let grow into pot and should be
rootbound or have 75% visable roots (when plant is gently
removed to inspect roots)before the next "pot up"
session, usually every two years.
Now that you will have proper drainage, water copiously in a
kitchen sink , on the porch, in the bathtup etc. (maybe keep
on a saucer and drag saucer to porch, lift out of saucer and
deep water every 3-4 days, let drain for hours in filtered
sunshine, then put back on saucer and drag back to desired
spot. Now a big problem would be to try to water slightly at
the indoor spot, keeping drain water below saucer level, as
this is not enough water and will allow salt or hard minerals
to accumilate and cause leaf tips to"brown tip".
If you are only able to water once a week use 75% potting
soil and 25% mini brk nuggets.(50-50 grows fastest). I built
several 1'deep containers (some out of stainless steel, some
out of large plastic cement mixing tubs) covered with wire
mesh so I can water heavily indoors and pump water out the
window with a cheap circulating pump,the standing water also
adds lots of humidity and enables you to grow about any
tropical plant. Also try to hand mist the palms at least twice
a day. 10-20 times a day if you have the heater on.
I sucessfully grow hundreds of tropical palms and rainforest
plants (rare heliconia's etc) indoors with said conditions and
never bother to examine ph levels, however I pot up with fresh
mix every two years. it's also very important to feed palms
with a palm fertilizer(near 3-1-3 ratio)preferably in a time
release form, every 3-4 months or per directions, all year
round when growing indoors. Paradise palms are very beautiful
and even with said ideal conditions take about ten years to
outgrow a house, which then can be planted into ground in
spring and then they will explode into hyper growth, and when
mature and seeding can generate 5-10 thousand dollars of
supplemental income per year in easy seed sales.(.05cents per
seed) constantly seeding all year long when mature. good luck
- Washingtonia palm - Norma 09:51:27 4/09/00 (2)
Hi. I just bought a wash. palm in Florida, and I live in Augusta,
GA. I cannot seem to find any good info on where to plant, soil, water
etc. Will these things really grow to 80 ft? Can it survive here?
Thanks for any help. Norma
- Re: Washingtonia palm - Robert Lee Riffle 23:10:37
4/09/00 (0)
Norma, it depends on which species of W. as to whether or not it
will, firstly, grow to 80 feet and, secondly, survive the winter
in Augusta. W. filifera will probably survive but will not grow to
80'; W. robusta will grow to 80' under optimum conditions (so.CA,
far south TX., so.FL)but is likely to die if the temp goes below
18'F. for very long.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award
winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Re: Washingtonia palm - Gary (South Texas) 10:44:22
4/09/00 (0)
Hi Norma,
Washingtonia robusta and or W. filifera can grow
in just about any kind of soil, they are hardy to around 18
degrees and sometimes even lower. There is a very good group of
excellent and knowledgeable palms enthusiast in your area. BTW I
was stationed for a few months in Augusta, while in the service
back in the 60's and I do remember seeing a few palms growing in
and around the area. You may want to join SPEPS (Southern Palm and
Exotic Plant Society you'll find some members living in Augusta.
SPEPS
- China Doll House plant - Brenda Pettry 08:58:07
4/08/00 (2)
I have a 3 foot tall Chaina Doll plant. The leaves keep falling off.
They are not yellow or blackish. Pland is otherwise healthy. What do I
do to keep the leaves on?
- Re: China Doll House plant - Linda Haines 11:29:42
4/08/00 (1)
When I wrote you, I neglected to tell you to try nourishing with
plant food. Ever since I have been putting plant food in the
watering can, it seems to be thriving and staying greener. I use:
Peters Professional All Purpose Plant Food
- Re: China Doll House plant - Gary (South Texas)
10:24:48 4/09/00 (0)
Linda is correct, in that Radermachera (China Doll) does
like fertilizer and water especially when the temperatures
start to get warmer, they also need some humidity. During the
spring mine start to drop the bottom branches for whatever
reason, this stops, after about a month, during the course of
a year they may drop a few branches but usually not many.
Inside (house) and also container plants, may grow differently
than those growing outside and in the ground.
- China Doll as Houseplant - Linda Haines from Pennsylvania
07:33:15 4/08/00 (1)
Gary, South Texas:
When you stated that you start the China
Doll by seed, do you have to buy seed in packet or does the seed come
from the plant itself? Putting the cuttings into water doesn't work so
I want to re-start plant to keep it as a small plant rather than the
large one that I do have now. Thank you.
- Re: China Doll as Houseplant - Gary (South Texas)
06:53:50 4/09/00 (0)
Hi Linda, Our China Doll has never flowered (maybe this year?)
so you would have to either start a new one by (1) a new plant
from a nursery or (2) from seed. Did you try putting the a
herbaceous cutting in peat or sand? Hardwood or semi-hardwood wood
cuttings are more for water and misting, and I really don't know
if it would work for Radermachera, as I have never tried it. Maybe
I should take a few cutting out to the Rhapis Gardens Greenhouse
and try it as we propagate ivy and Ming Aralia (Polyscias
fruticosa) both using misting and soil propagation.
- China Doll houseplant - Linda Haines 08:26:09
4/06/00 (1)
Is there a way to make start-up plants from the clippings that are
cut off the main plant? If not, how can I get a start-up plant
started?
- Pruning majestic palms? - Melody Knutson 21:22:45
4/01/00 (1)
I live in Portland, Oregon and bought a majestic palm for my
apartment last year. I made sure to give it plenty of light, water,
and fertilizer, and it was doing great. That is until this past winter
when I neglected to take care of it properly. It now has some brown
leaves. I cut one of the fronds off below the brown part, and after
that, the rest of the frond died. I am left with one frond with leaves
that are brown from the top to about half way down, and what was going
to be a new shoot that looks dried out & I don't think will open.
My question is what to do about them. Do I want to cut them off? If I
do that, will it hurt the rest of the plant? (I am not a plant person
and this is my first large one. The palm is about 5 1/2 feet tall.) I
have started taking care of it properly again, and there is another
new shoot that is growing so I know that I haven't killed it. Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
- Re: Pruning majestic palms? - Robert Lee Riffle
00:52:41 4/02/00 (0)
Dustin, keep the soil moist and give it as much light as
possible--also keep it away from temps below 60'F. DO NOT
fertilize it now--with anything.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of
the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- WHY MY PALM NOT GROWING!!!! - Connie 20:34:21
3/27/00 (3)
I am a final year student from university in Malaysia. Now I am
doing my final year thesis, it is a research about the media for the
palm in tissue culture. (in-vitro). I am using MS (Murashige
Skoog)media. My palm is not growing since last 5 months. I am very
worry now because my due date is very close. I hope somebody will help
to solve my problem. Please advise me of what ingredient I should add
to my media to make my palm growing and multiple. Thank you. I hope to
hear from someone soon. Connie Geri Malaysia.
- Re: WHY MY PALM NOT GROWING!!!! - D Constantine
02:00:51 3/31/00 (0)
With all due respects to other board contributors I think a
better place for this query would be the plant tissue culture
listserv: http://www.agro.agri.umn.edu/plant-tc/listserv/
Several palm species can be successfully micropropagated but
only the date palm is produced on a commercial scale. There is
plenty of work on Oil Palm in Malaysia but I'm not sure if it is
commercial yet for various technical reasons. You could consider
contacting Christine Alang at UKM, who has worked on various palms
and I am sure would be able to help. However, you should also
consider working on a more amenable plant. Palms are most
definitely not suitable subjects for a final year tissue culture
project, they are far to slow to respond. I think you have been
badly advised. Good luck anyway. David Constantine
- Re: WHY MY PALM NOT GROWING!!!! - Chuck 23:05:33
3/27/00 (1)
I don't know if this will help, but have you thought about
trying plant hormones such as auxin and cytokinin? I know that for
some plant tissues, auxin can promote cell division. Do you have
an advisor who is a botanist who can maybe help you out? Chuck,
jax fl.
- Re: WHY MY PALM NOT GROWING!!!! - Dave Poole
19:56:11 3/30/00 (0)
I could be wrong, but my understandng is that
micro-propagation techniques (tissue culture) have not yet
been found to work with palms. Solitary stemmed species have
only a single meristem from which cutlures can be taken and
until very recently at least, nothing has been found to
successfully promote cell division.
- Too many ladybugs - Paula 18:24:02 3/27/00 (1)
I need suggestions on how to get rid of too many ladybugs invading
houses. Thx
- Jackfruit trees - Kevin 20:53:24 3/25/00 (3)
Hello,
I live in south Florida and have just purchased a 5 ft
Jackfruit tree. I am looking for any advise anyone can give me on the
care of this tree.( Water, fertilizer,etc.) Thanks for your help!
Kevin
- Re: Jackfruit trees - Robert Lee Riffle 00:49:47
4/02/00 (2)
Kevin, the jackfruit will need irrigation in drought situations.
The tree grows too large to be fertilized regularly; an organic
mulch will work wonders, however, on the oolitic "soil"
of southern FL.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award
winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
- Re: Jackfruit trees - Web 21:53:00
4/04/00 (1)
Wow, jackfruit trees remind me of growing up in Bangladesh.
We had several jackfruits, really big trees, with big leaves,
lots of sap and those gigantic fruits that would come falling
out of the trees like bombs. Our mother would always warn us
not to play under the jackfruits. I wish they would grow here
in Texas.....
- Re: Jackfruit trees - nesa 22:34:55
6/09/00 (0)
Wont they grow in Texas?
- Question on Tibouchina Urvilleana - Larry Wilson 08:50:06
3/25/00 (2)
Last October I planted a small Tibouchina, about 2 feet tall, in the
garden. Over winter we had 3 or 4 nights of frost and, even though I
covered the plant with a blanket on those nights, it died back to the
ground. Everything I read about the plant says that if it dies back to
the ground during Winter it will return in the Spring. Now it's March
25th and I see no signs that the plant will come back this year. Is it
too early to tell or have I lost my plant? I did take a cutting of the
plant last Fall and have another ready to go, but I hesitate to take
up the existing one if there is a chance it will grow this year. This
is a new plant for me and I don't know what to expcet as far as its
growth habit in the Spring. Any suggestions gratefully appreciated.
Larry, Myrtle Beach, SC
- Re: Question on Tibouchina Urvilleana - george in
bandon,oregon 14:53:29 3/25/00 (1)
tibuchinas seem to be about as hardy as some of the more tender
fuchcias here in zone 8b/9a pacific north west. they will be
killed down to the ground at about 25f. you should wait til late
april or may before you should expect regrowth. with moisture,
fertilizer, and moderate warmth (i dont believe it really enjoys
high heat) it should be blooming for you this summer. ours are
blooming already in coos bay/north bend, oregon and have doing so
since feb. even with some light frost.
- Looking for Shell Ginger rhizomes - Mark in San Diego
21:32:30 3/23/00 (1)
I would like to buy Shell Ginger rhizomes. Any suggestions who to
contact? Also Agapanthus "storm Cloud"
- Re: Looking for Shell Ginger rhizomes - Esteban
13:19:39 3/28/00 (0)
Mark,we have most gingers,Heliconias,Costus and Globba in
Rhizome or plantls also.Describe your specific need by Botanical
name or by the flower and leaf structure and color Enter by direct
E-Mail and we will get you ewhat you want
Esteban McGrath
Loresco Tropical Plants
- Foxtail palm fronds - blake v(south texas) 20:24:51
3/22/00 (1)
HI everyone! I got a question about my Wodyetia bifurcata. A few
days ago I noticed that all of the fronds are becoming a little white.
I am worried if it is a disease or something. Any info. would help
about this.
- Re: Foxtail palm fronds - Bart 04:40:10
4/20/00 (0)
Blake,
Try some palm fertilizer, the faded leaves may get
some color back if it is hungry, if it is due to cold spells, the
new leaves should be green if still alive and properly cared for.
I have a few calamus species, veitcha's and other warm tropicals
that have been relegated to the great cold outdoors in the los
angeles area, due to space or lack there of, that bleach during
winter and usually recover like clockwork, year after year. During
winter, I try to cram lots of plants in close quarters together,
protect from wind, trap as much heat as possible cover with
plastic sheeting during near frosts, and pray often. Foxes are
hardier than most tropicals, but if treated like a tropical will
do very well, the colder it gets the longer the setback. good
luck...
- Feasibility with palms in room - Dustin Graves 18:06:44
3/19/00 (1)
Recently I have came to LOVE using palms in my room. So far I have a
small bella palm and a majesty palm, of which is about 5.5 feet tall.
The majesty palm seems to be doing so-so, as the very tips of the
leaves turn brown. Is this a problem or is it normal? It is in the
center of the room facing a window, to give it as much light as
possible since it can be pretty dark in my room. Anyway, I have this
idea of allocating some space in one of the corners and putting a
decorative grow light above. I plan on adding several species of plams
and ferns there. Based on your expertise, would this idea workout?
Oh, and the majesty is in an 8 inch pot..should I repot it..and with
what commercially available soil?
Thanks a TON in advance!!! Email would be greatly appreciated.
Dustin Graves Fairfax, MO fhsdustin@hotmail.com
- Re: Feasibility with palms in room - Bart 05:21:07
4/20/00 (0)
Dustin, Brown tips mean lack of copius water, use a well drained
mix like 50-50 potting soil and mini bark nuggets. When watering
make sure you flood it and water flows out the holes alot,in a
sink or ?( I water every 4 days and mist like crazy, middle of a
room is too dark, if your going to create a garden, try to utilize
the space in front of the window, set plants on top of a dresser
or ?, utilize the light. I do, and also use a halide 1000 watt
light system, forget fluorescents as they do next to nothing in
comparison. My light setup is in my living room and provides so
much heat that I never have to turn on a heater all year and its
90 deg during the day and the high 70's at night,(enabling me to
grow virtually anything tropical) its on a timer and provides
enough light for the kitchen, dining room and living room from 10
in the morning to 11 at night cutting lots of utility bills. I try
to grow about every tropical specie I can find. Ferns indoors
languish, I can keep them alive and they grow slowly, heaters kill
them zapping necessary humidity, try adding humidity trays and
mist often. However in the past few years I moved the ferns
outdoors in shade and provide wet, humid conditions, try the same
indoors, mist often and then some, sounds like you have the
tropical bug, and you won't beleive the metamorphis, surrounding
yourself with a meticulous tropical jungle. aaah the quality of
life.... good luck
- Butterfly Ginger - Alvin 13:02:07 3/19/00 (2)
When should my rhizome be planted? Last year, it was planted in
June, and failed to bloom after growing about 1 1/2 ft tall.
- landscape architectural w/palms - Kathy Tuttle 12:29:56
3/19/00 (1)
Help from Houston, Texas! We have a corner in our yard that we want
to clear and landscape with a tropical look. We have had luck with
palms in other areas of our yard and want to include those. Before we
begin tearing up our yard we would like to have some idea of what to
place there. Any architectural "floorplans" would be
helpful. Can't seem to find much - perhaps we're not looking in the
right place.
- Re: landscape architectural w/palms - Robert Lee
Riffle 12:49:49 3/19/00 (0)
Kathy, impossible to landscape an area without seeing it. What
part of the city are you in?
--rlr, author of the award
winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK (and fellow Houstonian)
- Damaged Plumeria - Jim Robinson (San Antonio) 14:24:19
3/18/00 (1)
We have a potted Plumeria (probably a hybrid) which has flowered
consistently in the past and has/had a stem approx. 4 feet long.
Moving the plant today, the stem broke off in the middle, revealing
rot in the middle of the trunk. We have removed the rotted portion of
the stem and fertilized the remaining nub. However, we have some
concern that it is planted in quite compact and, perhaps, not so well
draining soil. Should we try to re-pot it in a lighter mix like peat
moss and perlite or will that be too much additional trauma right now?
We also immediately (this morning) planted the end of the stem as a
cutting, without leaving the cutting to sit out and form a "scab".
Should we un-pot it and leave it out to form such a "scab"?
Both were fertilized with a light fish emulsion. We would appreciate
any help and advice.
- Re: Damaged Plumeria - Jim K. 10:34:14
3/20/00 (0)
I had a similar experience with breaking a piece of branch off a
plumeria last summer in a thunderstorm. There was no rot in the
broken pieces, but I thought my plant was wrecked. The main plant
had no adverse effects and I repotted the broken piece. You should
take out that piece you polanted and let it dry out a bit or else
the whole thing will rot. Another time, when I first had a
plumeria, I left it out on the deck a little too late in the fall
and it gor some frost damage. The damage started a rot that needed
severe surgery to the main stem to stop. I never treated it with
anyrthing special and today the plant is about 4 feet tall. Yours
should survive, but get that cutting out of the pot and let it
dry.
- PLEASE SAVE MY SAGO!!!!!!!!!!!! - anthony 10:08:42
3/17/00 (2)
I found your xlnt website after months of searching for an answer to
a MAJOR problem with my sago palm (I beleive its a "cyca").
I live in San Diego, CA, and have "clay-like soil". I
purchased a large cyca from a homeowner who was moving, about a year
ago. Its trunk is about 10-12 inches wide, and about 16 inches high.
It was beautiful and adorned the center of our front lawn, everyone
commented on it. It started browning in the midst of a heat wave in
july & august, so I watered it more in Sept..Then a local gardener
told me it was "too wet", so I stopped. No new leaves have
ever grown, and its getting more brown each month.
I'm thinking of transplanting to a larger, better drained hole in
the backyard, desperate to "save its life"! PLEASE HELP!!!!!
ANTHONY
- butera queen palm - B Mathy 20:42:30 3/09/00
(1)
I live in Houston. The butera queen palm does not freeze in Houston.
I am trying to locate one.
- zone 7b, hardy tree ferns? - j p 13:59:50 3/08/00
(1)
does anyone know of any possibly hardy species of treeferns and
where could i purchase them? many thanks what ever.
- Re: zone 7b, hardy tree ferns? - Alvin z6A/5B
17:57:25 3/08/00 (0)
The hardiest tree fern that I know of is Dicksonia antarctica.
It is hardy to zone 8B. However, if you are willing to provide
protection when temps go below the upper teens, there is no reason
why you couldn't grow it in z7B. Visit this website:
www.fancyfronds.com They sell small tree ferns, but also have some
5 gallon ones if you inquire about them. I purchased a 5 gallon
one from them last year.
- new orleans area - saskia 04:50:43 3/08/00 (2)
im new to the new orleans area and would like to find some good
garden centres for the tropical looking plants any help would be
wonderful thanks
- Re: new orleans area - Steve 21:48:26 5/26/00
(0)
Saskia- by far the most extensive nursery in the New Orleans
area is Bantings. It's located across the old Mississippi river
bridge, in Bridge City.If you cross from the east bank, take the
first right at the traffic circle, & then again your first
right. When you get to the levee take another right & it's on
your right about 100 ft. Also, one of my favorites in the area is
Rose's Garden Center on the west bank expressway. It's in Harvey
near Barataria. Good Luck!! Steve
- Re: new orleans area - m.a. daws 07:42:01
3/21/00 (0)
There are many nice nurserys North of the big lake in the
Covington Mandeville area. Take the causeway go thru Covinton and
hit U.S.190 you will cross an overpass that goes over the
Tchefuncte river. There is a nursery on the right hand side that
has a decent selection of tropicals. I think the name is Imhara's.
Can't remember for sure. Also call Casadaban's and ask them. If
you are looking for beautiful gardens to travel and look you need
to experience the Zemurray Gardens outside of Loranger. Wonderful
azalea gardens with a lake and small waterfall. I haven't been
there in several years but I have heard it is even better. Good
Luck MAD
- A Zone '6' Washingtonia robusta ? - Tony O. (z.6 )
14:48:49 3/05/00 (3)
What, You don't think so ?
. Well, beleive it or not, here it is. Last summer, I bought a pair
of 2' tall, 1 gallon Washingtonia robusta at a "K" mart, "end
of season" plant close out sale, both for $7.oo . I planted them
on the pond-dike not thinking about trying to keep them over winter.
I'm planning on planting some hardier ones this spring & decided
to pratice cold weather protection on one of them.
. I took a 4 gallon bucket, with the bottom cut out, placed it over
one of them. I filled it with saw dust for insulation around the roots
& the base of the plant. If it was going to rain, I'd place a
plastic picknick table over it so the saw dust wouldn't get wet.
Whenever the tempatures were forcast to dip below the upper 20's, I'd
wrap a terry towell around the leaves to hold them togather & 3
more bath towells around that for insulation. I'd top that off with an
upside down, 55 gallon, plastic trash can. I would remove all that
whenever the weather permitted. (thinking that if it lasted till
Christmas, I'd be lucky) The lowest here this winter was 9*F with over
a week of below freezing tempatures.
. Well, 3 weeks ago, I removed all protection. All older leaves are
brown & dead, but the youngest is 1/2 green with a 9" spear
presently growing. . I feel that if a W. robusta could survive
protected that way, then the more cold hardy ones shouldn't have to
much of a problem during winters protected that way.
. I probably won't protect it next winter because I want to try a
date palm in that spot next. Then again, maybe not. . Looking accross
the pond, it's the only thing green over there. The spear is 1/2
opened, with another trying to push up. Don't you just love spring?
- Walmart Palms - Jerry 01:51:33 3/04/00 (1)
I was at the local Walmart today and found some 5 gallon Phoenix
roebelinii and Livistona chinensis for $7.96 each. The roebelinii were
in excellent shape, the chinensis on the other hand has been
neglected. It is about 3ft tall, but has a few broken stems and dried
out fronds (the remaining fronds seemed okay). The plant was in
bone-dry soil and was leaning to one side. My question is would this
plant recover if watered and fertilized properly, would it be worth
the price given the condition of the plant, and how fast does this
type of palm grow so that I would know when (if) my efforts were
worthwhile? They also had "Elephant Ear" bulbs for $2.50
each, seems like a good price. Thanks for your time guys, any info you
can give me (personal experience) with both of these palms will be
appreciated, take care.
- Re: Walmart Palms - Gary (South Texas) 08:30:27
3/04/00 (0)
Good price for both palms. The Phoenix roebelenii should be a
fast to med. growing palm, yet on the other hand, the Livistona
chinensis is on the slow side. Are these palms going to be planted
on the outside (in situ) or in containers)? Water the palms and
keep them moist but not wet. Give them good light and fresh air
this will help in their recovery. If your growing them for inside
plants the Phoenix roebelenii is your best bet! Watch for spider
mites, give it a little extra N during the warmer months when palm
is actively growing. Hope this helps.
- Sago Palm Planting Help - Ray Menard 19:46:09
3/02/00 (1)
I was given several potted Sago Palms. I live in the "hill
country" north of San Antonio which is very rocky. Can anyone
help with planting and care instructions? Thanks
- Re: Sago Palm Planting Help - Robert Lee Riffle
15:23:10 3/04/00 (0)
Ray, there are two problems with growing sago "palms"
(Cycas revoluta) where you are: soil and climate. The soil problem
(alkaline and rocky) is much easier dealt with by simply amending
the existing with lots of compost; the climate (USDA zone 8a/8b)
is more of a problem, but it fyou are willing to protect the
plants when the temp is forecast to drop below 20'F. you can
probably grow them.
- Growing a Mango - Michael O'Brien 15:53:25
3/01/00 (2)
I have a mango tree that is 5 years old with flowers. How do I
pollinate the tree. I live in Palm Desert, CA and there are no other
mango trees in the area. Thanks for any info
- how do I plant a coconut? - rain 10:04:04 3/01/00
(2)
Found it floating in the canal this morning. Which end is up?
- Re: how do I plant a coconut? - leslie 21:54:46
5/02/00 (0)
I grow alot of nuts and I suggest to shake it and if there is
milk either plant it pointy side down or place nut in h2o. One of
the three sides will point up. Plant it exactly the same way it is
floating.
- Re: how do I plant a coconut? - Jim 18:40:51
3/01/00 (0)
I can't see it!!! : ) Shake it. Does it slosh? If all is quiet,
it's probably dry. If is sounds like it is half-full, it's
probably good. Lay it flat, cover it about half way, keep it in
the shade, keep it moist, not wet,keep it warm,preferably 90F.
I've had some sprout in as little as 20 days. Some can take 6
months or more. I give all seeds 1 year. Some more. Best, Jim
- Help with leaf rollers!!!!!!! - Marcel 12:56:12
2/27/00 (2)
Does anyone know how to get rid of leaf rollers on my canna lillies?
Please help. Marcel
- Re: Help with leaf rollers!!!!!!! - Steve 21:55:55
5/26/00 (0)
Marcel- I hate those rollers with passion!! I start out in the
early spring with a spray of liquid seven. Every 2 weeks or so I
do a follow-up. Short of picking them off by hand(very time
consuming if you have large beds) or worse yet, cutting them all
down to the ground,this is the only thing I've found that really
works. I hope this helps. Stev in NO
- Re: Help with leaf rollers!!!!!!! - Val 21:19:04
3/16/00 (0)
Squash them or spray with BT. Val
- Fertilizing palms - Dale 20:47:47 2/26/00 (2)
Can someone tell me the the best fertilizers for palms and
pineapples. I have four palms I planted last spring in Ft.Worth and
they did realy well(2 6ft. 1 4ft. 1 2ft.)I know they are not native to
this soil and I want to give them something to get them realy going
this spring.Also, many six to eight inch palms from seeds,pineapples
and bannanas. Thanks
- Light vs Alocasia amazonia - Jeff 14:52:18
2/26/00 (1)
I have turned my dry office at work into a Humid warm green house.
The window faces south, I am in Seattle. I have a 4 foot double tube
florescent light with Sylvania Gro-Lux installed. There is a Bonaire
clean mist3 about 18 inches from the plants. Humidity runs around 32%
with out misting and above 60% after a good leaf spray. The diurnal
range is 80 to 70 degrees F. There is the set up. I have a new
alocasia amazonica, Three rhizomes in one 10 inch pot, about 13 leaves
total. They look healthy. I have the plant about 18 inches from the
light, I put the blind down on sunny days to limit the direct light.
The Gro-lux is on for 10 hours a day. Is this to much light? I just
noticed some leaf droop, not excessive but I don't want to hurt the
plan by ignoring the droop. There is really mixed information on this
plant, some say bright winter light others say shade. If I need to
limit ligh how high should the light be from the plant? I went on the
bright side of the spectrum. Any help will be greatly welcomed. Thanks
- Tropical Fruit/Veg plants - Nesa 06:31:45 2/23/00
(1)
Does anyone know if I can send these to Singapore without customs
,quarantine problems?I'm looking into starting a business along those
lines.
- Gunnera manicata - where can I buy one? - James Ballance
19:35:36 2/22/00 (1)
I've been thoroughly unsuccessfful finding a nursery selling
gunnera. Does anyone know a supplier? I'm in Zone 7 but I'm a sucker
for punishment and making things as hard as possible. I have a VAST
plastic tub that can just be moved by four people so at least the
plant could come in for some winter protection. Any help appreciated.
- Re: Gunnera manicata - where can I buy one? - george
in bandon,oregon 23:45:47 2/22/00 (0)
here are three mail-order sources: colvos creek nursery (vashon
island, wash.) email: colvoscreek@juno.com ,heronswood nursery
(kingston, wash) website: www.heronswood.com , and forestfarm
nursery phone: 541-846-7269 (in williams, oregon)
- Litchi trees - Kevin 20:04:47 2/16/00 (1)
I notice someone posted a message a while back about litchi trees
loving acid. Is this true? I have 2 trees 1 is 3 years old and 1 is
about 8 years old (older 1 is about 9ft tall and 6 ft wide). The older
1 has had a few fruit blooms but never any fruit. Maybe its because I
use normal fruit tree fertilizer on them. How do I raise the acid in
the soil? Could not enough acid be the problem? I live in the ideal
climate (south Florida). Thanks for any help, Kevin
- Re: Litchi trees - Jim 19:50:55 2/17/00 (0)
Hi Kevin, Check out this booklet; ISBN: 0-8200-0409-X. Only a
couple $. "Tropical Fruit Trees" In it they recommend an
application of 8-4-8-4 every two months on young plants.
Thereafter, 1-2 times per year at a rate of 2 lbs per inch of
trunk diameter. Heavy organic helps, as well as a lot of water.
But don't flood. Foliar sprays are a good idea, also. No mention
is made of needing a pollinator. Best, Jim
- POT PLANTING" - DAVE DEMEK 10:09:00 2/15/00
(2)
I RECENTLY READ AN ARTICLE WRITTEN BY DON TOLLEFSON REGARDING
PLANTING PALMS IN THE CONTAINERS.
http://www.raingardens.com/psst/articles/palmpot.htm I HAVE 7 PALMS,
15GAL. (PLASTIC CONTAINER)3TRACHY.FORT., 3CHAMEROPS HUMILIS.,1BRAHEA
ARMATA. THAT I AM PLANNING TO ADD TO MY LANDSCAPE WHEN THE WEATHER
WARMS UP. I LIVE IN THE HIGH DESERT OF CA. (LANCASTER). WOULD IT BE
PRACTICAL FOR ME TO PLANT IN THIS MANNER? THANK YOU, DAVE
- Re: "POT PLANTING" - bart 03:20:40
2/22/00 (1)
Dave, This method works great, and only increases the odds of
immediate growth right after transplanting. It keeps the roots
insulated from colder soil temperatures, which can cause the plant
to go into shock or a "sulk" state of not growing. Its a
good idea to gently split the sides and bottom of pot. This
technique, I beleive, was pioneered by a very nice lady up in
ventura california, who has been growing hundreds of rare palms
for 30-40 years. Some 80-100 feet tall, with 18" plus
diameter trunks, BLASTING OUT OF THE ORIGINAL ONE GALLON POT!!!!
(she left the pieces) This technique enabled her and all of us, to
grow tempermental tropical palms and plants, and avoid that
critical period of shock when transplanting them into the ground.
Don Tolleffson's book "The Diamond Lane Guide to Growing
Palms" is a definate MUST HAVE. It's not your typical coffee
table book, rather, chocked full of excellent information on "every
aspect" of palm growing. The best palm growing "manual"
on the market, covering hundreds of topics.(available thru "palm
society" bookstores). good luck
- Re: "POT PLANTING" - DAVE DEMEK
12:16:50 2/22/00 (0)
Bart, Thank you for the promt reply. Mr. Tollefsons' article
and what you confirmed make perfect sense to me. I guess I
just needed some reassurance. The planting procedure you
described is precisely what I had in mind. I will let you know
the results. Again, thanks for the reply. Dave
- could you list all the different varieties of elephants ears
- ed 21:20:32 2/14/00 (3)
I am very interested in elephant ears. I have the common green
variety. I had the taro purple sheild,it rotted. I am aware of the
taro black magic. I have another taro but the name escapes me. It is
green with purple veins and sends off new tubers rapidly. Are there
any others? I would also like a list of catalogs where I could
purchase them. I already have Spring Hill,Brecks,and just ordered
Stokes. I received a list from Mo. Botanical Garden, it wasn`t much
help.I would appreciate any info:)
- Re: could you list all the different varieties of elephants
ears - Tony O. 14:14:07 2/19/00 (1)
-- For another good site, having a good selection of them (&
many other unusual plants), Click on the link below. They also
have a very interesting catalog that they'll send you, if you ask
for it. -- Their e-mail address is on his web site if you want to
make contact
- Re: could you list all the different varieties of elephants
ears - Esteban McGrath 07:23:59 2/17/00 (0)
we are in Puerto Rico and offer a reasonable price for very nice
plants.We also have over 200 cultivars of Heliconia and most all
gingers.E-mail me for a list if you want plants...not only
Aroids,but other Tropicals also.
Esteban McGrath
Loresco
Tropical Plants
San Juan,Puerto Rico
- Majesty Palm Advice - Michelle 20:01:00 2/13/00
(3)
Hello All I was given a Majesty palm for Valentines Day from my
great hubby.Other than the usual 3 lines of care instructions, there
is no other information available for it. I live in Texas where it has
been quite dry for a few years now. What is some good advice for
caring for my palm? Does anybody know of any good resources on the net
for these palm trees so I don`t have to bore everyone with 80
questions on this board? Any advice or help will be greatly
appreciated. The life of my palm tree depends on it! LOL! Thank you
for any and all replies
- Re: Majesty Palm Advice - Jim 17:32:53
2/15/00 (2)
Hi Michelle, the two best sites to start are; palms.org and
plantapalm.com. At both sites there is a list of other sites. Just
a suggestion... you need to mention if the palm will be kept
indoors or outside. Here in so. Fl. we have them outside. A lot of
people are trying them inside and seem to have trouble. Best , Jim
- Polyscias - Alvin 18:25:31 2/13/00 (3)
Is anyone familiar with te culture of this plant? I have one that
seems to be growing taller, but is losing most of its lower leaves.
- Re: Polyscias - Jim 17:23:54 2/15/00 (2)
Hi Alvin, I have several in pots here in Naples, Fl., and they
always lost their leaves during the winter. Best, Jim
- pandanus germinating - Dave Crossley 05:35:02
2/10/00 (2)
I live in Sydney, Australia and wish to germinate some Pandanus palm
seeds. Can a palm guru give me optimum conditions for this to occur.
- Re: pandanus germinating - Jim 19:33:11
2/17/00 (1)
Dave, I can't claim that title. However, as no one else offered
to help... My experience has been spotty at best. Sometimes they
sprout sometimes they don't. I visited with a local nurseyman on
this very subject. He has been growing Pandanus from seed for
years. He told me some years no seeds sprout, other years, every
seed sprouts. He was at a loss for an explanation.He treated them
the same as palm seeds. Shade, moist and warm. Sorry, but that's
the best I can offer. Jim
- Tropical flowering trees - John IngramCA z10 01:24:24
2/06/00 (1)
How are seeds of Brachychiton discolor started? Anything in
particular that I should know? I just got several pods (I've only
removed the seeds from one). Is 26 an average amount of seeds per pod?
Also, I have received seeds for Tabebuia ipe (avellandae), Enterlobium
contortisiliqum, and Peltrophorum dubium. Do these need anything
particular? How much light is required for germination, soil type,
moisture?
- Re: Tropical flowering trees - Dean Rallison 06:11:43
2/29/00 (0)
Brachychiton seeds don't really need any special treatment. They
will retain viability for up to a couple of years, but sooner is
usually better than later. Care should be taken handling the seeds
as they are surrounded by irritant hairs.
Tabebuia ipe seeds on the other hand have a very short
viability, not surpassing 90 days (ref: Harri Lorenzi). I have
germinated T. roseo alba without any trouble, and the seedlings
are reasonably robust. I don't have any experience with the other
two unfortunately.
I would keep the seedlings in a sunny place with a glass or
plastic cover over the top to keep the humidity high. Also, if you
can buy a seed raising mix and sterilize it by putting it in the
microwave for a minute, and then put the seeds in this (after it
has cooled down!)you may find that fungus doesn't kill as many
seedlings as it otherwise might.
Alternatively you can pour boiling water over the soil, and in
both cases the first time you water the seedlings after they
germinate, you can add a fungicide to the water (ask at the
nursery). If you can't buy purpose-made seed-raising mix, you can
make your own which is probably as good by using 3 parts washed
river sand, 1 part peat-moss, 1 part good quality loam. Good luck.
- Pony Tail Palm - Mary D 14:37:25 2/05/00 (1)
I have a 5ft palm that has two babies that are almost a foot tall.
When is it safe to take them from the tree and how do I do it?
- Wodyetia Bifurcata (foxtail palm) - Geoff Crowther
16:48:19 2/03/00 (1)
I'm a licensed seed collector based in Cairns Queensland Australia.
Currently offering wodyetia bifurcata (foxtail palm) seed at
$US220/thousand, any quantity fresh picked with Aus. govt export
permit. Also normanbya normanbyi (black palm)at $US120/thousand, and
cycad seeds in season. Other rare seeds or common seed please enquire.
- majesty palms - mikej08@aol.com 10:06:18 2/03/00
(3)
I have been reading about the care for the majesty palms they seem
harder to care for than most indoor plants but are lovely. I have
purchased two, one is a larger plant and the older outer leaves are
yellowing fast the newer leaves in the center, the tips are now
yellowing. What am I doing wrong. At first I thought I was not
watering enough. I purchased 3 wks ago.
- Re: majesty palms - bart 03:52:22 2/15/00
(0)
I too am having similar problems with my Majesty Palm here in
N.C. I suspect I am guilty of exposing the plant to too little
humidity and too much heat (near a heater). Leaves and stems are
browning. How can I best revive and save this plant? (have
relocated it away from the heat source, and spray mist it daily
with watering every week...) Thanks for any help..David
- Re: majesty palms - David 13:12:15 2/06/00
(1)
- Re: majesty palms - bart 04:31:53 2/15/00
(0)
"Majesty's" are amongst the fastest growing palms
on earth, given the correct conditions. like most tropicals,
are very unforgiving, one wrong move and you've lost it.
Basically they come from the madagascan rainforest, growing
around river banks, hence the latin name "ravena
rivularis". So they love copious amounts of water, like
most all palms given proper drainage( I use 50% potting soil
and 50% small bark nuggets from home depot or ? works great).
You can water from every day to once a week, depending on the
drainage. Optimally every day with great drainage. Sounds like
both senerio's were lacking light. They need lots of bright
filtered light(up to leaf burning level), and palm fertilizer
only every three months in a time released form. The heater
can cause a problem with humidity or the lack there of, so you
better mist often or boil alot of water, but they need warmth
first and water second, light third and can survive dry warm
winters, given proper suplemental humidity. They love to grow
into a rootbound state and pot up only into the next available
size. They should explode with conditions similar to these,
joining your local palm society is a great way to obtain
brillant colored rare palms for dirt cheap. good luck mahalo
- Banana question - Mike 23:57:10 2/01/00 (4)
What is the proper way to start a banana plant from the fruit?
....or can you even do that?
- Re: Banana question - Esteban 13:43:51
2/02/00 (3)
When I planted oriental vegatables on the So Coast of PR,a
Chinese farmer hired 10 field workers to plant bananas in the
ground to grow plantsThey all listened very carefully and with
great respect to him and got the hell out of there as soon as he
was finished giving instructions on how to do it.Edible banana
plants are taken from new plants or suckers or from TC which is
quite expensive timewise.
- Re: Banana question - Joe 19:50:45
3/28/00 (1)
Hello, No you can not plant the bananas or the banana seeds
from the bananas that you buy at the food store. Infact the
seeds from the bananas at the store are not really true seeds.
You can only get true seeds from wild bananas. The seeds in
the wild bananas can range from a pea size seed to a nickle
size seed. If you would like to try to grow some banana seeds
try buying them from the Park's seed catalog. Those seeds are
large almost nickle size seeds and are perfect for the one who
has never tried banana seeds before since they are so big. I
have orderd some banana seeds from parks seeds before and had
great results, infact I found that they were much easier to
start then the smaller banana seed varieties that I orderd
from different seed companys. By the way the seed sizes vary
from variety to variety. The seeds that you order from Park's
seeds will be the Musa Ensete seeds, which I think is the
largest banana seed variety. The seeds may take some time to
sprout, but believe me, it's worth the wait.
- Re: Banana question - Joe 19:50:21
3/28/00 (0)
Hello, No you can not plant the bananas or the banana seeds
from the bananas that you buy at the food store. Infact the
seeds from the bananas at the store are not really true seeds.
You can only get true seeds from wild bananas. The seeds in
the wild bananas can range from a pea size seed to a nickle
size seed. If you would like to try to grow some banana seeds
try buying them from the Park's seed catalog. Those seeds are
large almost nickle size seeds and are perfect for the one who
has never tried banana seeds before since they are so big. I
have orderd some banana seeds from parks seeds before and had
great results, infact I found that they were much easier to
start then the smaller banana seed varieties that I orderd
from different seed companys. By the way the seed sizes vary
from variety to variety. The seeds that you order from Park's
seeds will be the Musa Ensete seeds, which I think is the
largest banana seed variety. The seeds may take some time to
sprout, but believe me, it's worth the wait.
- needles in upstate ohio - Barbara Terry 21:15:39
1/31/00 (3)
is it possible to grow a needle palm in Akron-Canton area of
Northern Ohio ?
- Re: needles in upstate ohio - Rick Z5b 18:20:09
2/08/00 (0)
John was a little of as to my location. I live in Streetsboro, a
little closer to Akron. I do have Two needle palms growing outside
and doing fine, even with -13 we experienced a few weeks ago. They
are growing on the East foundation of my house with oak leaf mulch
and a plastic windbreak. If you want more information please
E-mail me.
- Re: needles in upstate ohio - John IngramCA z10
21:23:51 1/31/00 (0)
Yes, I met someone who has had two needles in his yard for three
years. He germinated them from seed himself. I saw tehm this past
fall when I was buying some bamboo from him. He is actually in
Strongsville not Akron-Canton though. He also has Pampas grass
growing in his yard for several years. If you like, you can email
me and I can give you more info. I'm in the Akron-Canton area
twice a year doing landscaping at my uncles yard (in Canal
Fulton).
- Pineapple from seed - Craig 17:59:36 1/31/00
(2)
I cut into a very ripe pineapple today and discovered that it had
gone to seed. This is the first time I've ever encountered this. Are
there any secrets to successfully growing pineapple from these seeds?
- Re: Pineapple from seed - Roy Lent 19:41:40
3/06/00 (0)
Interesting. Commercial pineapples are grown with different
varieties carefully isolated as cross pollenation between
varieties will give seeded fruit. I've grown pineapple from seed.
You can expect 2 things; alonger period of growth till flowering
and a wild range of varietal differences between offspring. Some
will not be edible, others will be fine, often with unusual
characteristics.
Wash the seed off and plant directly as soon as it dries a bit.
Germination is not a problem but the young plants will look just
like grass seedlings. If you live in a commercial pineapple
growing area I would recommend that you do not do this as the
pollen from your plants could cause a disaster in a commercial
planting!
Roy Lent
- Re: Pineapple from seed - Esteban McGrath 13:36:44
2/02/00 (0)
Craig less than a zillionth of pineapples are propagated from
seed....when available.From tops or babys ,yes 'but not from seed
- Germinating Cycas - Marie 17:53:19 1/31/00 (1)
I have a few red seeds of a cycas(dont know which one) and was
wondering how to Germinate them? Please help..Thanks, Marie
- Re: Germinating Cycas - Steve Hinkson 19:48:06
2/01/00 (0)
If they're red and also about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm)long, then
they're likely Zamia pumula, "The Cardboard Palm". You
bury them shallowly in a fast draining compost, and keep them
WARM, and just damp. Be patient, Cycads aren't in a hury to
germinate. Steve
- delonix in Northern California - Craig 14:36:48
1/29/00 (3)
I've brought back some delonix regia (flame of the forest) seeds
from India, and I'm wondering how well they will do in Santa Rosa,
about an hour north of San Francisco. Summers are long and hot here,
but winters can be cool, with lows in the 30s--and sometimes lower
than that. Is it possible to grow this tree here? Any tips?
- Cordyline indivisa; hardiness - Jeff Hardin 18:16:45
1/26/00 (1)
I have a very small Cordyline indivisa. I'm from Newport News, VA,
zone 8a and I was wondering just how hardy Cordyline indivisa is. The
temperature has dropped to 19 degrees so far and no damage has
occured. currently it is completely covered by 8 inches of snow from
the recent blizzard that everyone has been talking about. It appears
to be okay, but tonight we are supposed to get our coldest temps of
the season; about 15 degrees, and I am getting a bit concerned. If
anyone has any info I would be grateful.
- Alocasia amazonica - Scott Nuce 08:20:16 1/24/00
(1)
The tips of the leaves are turning brown. Does anybody know why this
happens? Also, there seems to be conflicting information on what kind
of light it needs. The nursery told me bright light, but a lot of
Internet sites say partial shade. Should it be kept moist at all times
or allowed to dry out between waterings? Thanks for any help.
- Re: Alocasia amazonica - Esteban McGrath 06:20:30
1/25/00 (0)
Scott you didn't mention the size,age or micro-climate of the
plant'whereabouts so it is hard to give a professional opinion.
Alocasias love a wet,low pH shade to 90% to reach
max.coloration.In the sun they will be a different color than in
the shade. Tip burn could be from a lack of water,leaf and stem
being old and ready to fall off.The plant could be hungry also.Use
a 1/2% 20-20-20 sol and if the leaf is large,cut it back to 1'
above where the new stem will come out of the old one. In our GH
and nursery here in P.R.,I find that to kill an Alocasia you have
to work at it.....yet you are not in Puerto Rico.Ah! also keep the
temps around the 70-90s E-mail me if you need more help. Est
- Medinilla - Mark Shirey 19:22:03 1/23/00 (3)
Does anyone have experience growing Medinilla in Zone 9a? A local
nursery has a couple of specimens in a greenhouse, but I would like to
grow it in my courtyard. I don't want to waste the money if there's
zero chance of it surviving. If it might survive mild Houston winters
like the current one, I'll snatch it up tomorrow.
- Re: Medinilla - Steve 03:37:24 5/28/00 (0)
Mark- I have a Medinilla growing outside that has survived for
about 5 winters.I give it no special treatment except protecting
it from freezing weather. I'm in New Orleans, but it's not in my
courtyard! It seems to bloom more in the winter. I cover in with
plastic held up by sticks & down by rocks. Good luck with
whatever you decide! Steve in NO
- Re: Medinilla - Robert Lee Riffle 20:19:36
1/23/00 (1)
If you can protect it from actual freezing temps you can do it.
There is at least one that has survived a while in a NooWahlinz
courtyaard. Keep it from the direct noonday sun, never let it dry
out and feed regularly (when the temps are above 60'F.) with fish
emulsion. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE
TROPICAL LOOK (and fellow Houstonian)
- crepe myrtle seeds - Tim Stiller 17:48:13 1/20/00
(1)
What is the best way to plant Crepe Myrtle seeds?
- Re: crepe myrtle seeds - deb 11:24:35
1/27/00 (0)
I just started a bunch last month. I use wet paper towels then
place in a plastic bag and seal. They sprout quickly and then I
transplant to pots to grow on further. Not a difficult seed to
sprout at all. I don't even use bottom heat but it wouldn't hurt
and would probably speed up the process if they were about 80
degrees,
- over wintering cannas in wash.state - Brad stedenfeld
14:04:19 1/19/00 (2)
any help on how to keep cannas over winter in washington would be
very helpfull
- Re: over wintering cannas in wash.state - alex_7b
17:02:38 1/19/00 (0)
Brad, Cannas are considered root-hardy through z7. If you are
colder than this, you should dig up the tubors and store them in a
cool, dry place.
- Re: over wintering cannas in wash.state - Jeff,
Victoria, BC, 8b 15:22:59 1/19/00 (0)
You should be more specific as to where in Washington you live
(what zone)? If it is coastal (8b) then I have found that for most
varieties they can be left in the ground all winter, provided you
do not cut the stalks down in the fall. Just let them be until
spring. Cutting them down allows rain to get into the tuber
(through the cut) and rot them from the inside. I have had
consistent success doing this with the striped leaf variety and
another called "King Kong" (the largest Canna). I have
had less succes with the regular red leafed variety, except near
the house under an overhang. Does this help?
- help with seedlings - Belinda 01:25:45 1/18/00
(3)
I have a ficus tree in my courtyard about 6 months ago I threw some
palm seeds in there and just lightly covered them ( I think they were
majestic and canariensis seeds) anyway I did this once before and like
before I now have little sprouting seedlings. The last time I dug them
out and planted them into 1 gallon containers. They have struggled and
most died, I want to help this set of seedlings survive, any
suggestions? (Southern California/ semi to mostly shady courtyard.
Thanks, Belinda
- Pineapples and Bananas. - David 19:12:29 1/14/00
(1)
I would like to get some pineapple plants that would produce big
jucy pineapples any help would be apreciated. Also i would like some
banana trees that get at least 6 feet tall and produce good bananas
email me.
- Re: Pineapples and Bananas. - Jeff, Victoria, BC, 8b
15:28:19 1/19/00 (0)
If you cut the top off a grocery store bought pinapple and let
the cut surface dry for a couple of days you can then plant it in
soil and it will root. They need hot, bright humid conditions to
do well. I have seen fruiting banana plants in the grocery stores
and nurseries many times. Cavendish is what you normally eat.
There are other tasety fruiting varieties, but you can't tell them
by looking at the plant. You have to rely on it being tagged
accordingly.
- Plumeria blosoms changing color - Cyndy 18:25:24
1/14/00 (1)
I lived in Hawaii and sent the seeds from my Plumeria tree to my
Dad. With a very good green thumb and a lot of patience, 2 grew to
maturity, and he gave them to me. I'm living in Pennsylvania (zone 6)
now and have had years of enjoyment with my plumerias, along with my
other tropicals. For at least 15 years, the flowers have been white
with yellow centers, like my tree in Hawaii. Well, this Summer, to my
surprise, the blooms were beautiful pinkish-red with orange centers! I
did not do anything different this year than I have done in the past.
With my experience with Plumerias, and in all my books, I have never
known this to happen. Just out of couriosity, What happened?
- Re: Plumeria blosoms changing color - neil 00:23:03
2/10/00 (0)
hi, i have a plumeria that changes color from time to time. The
center is orange, yellow or gold. The stripes on the back
sometimes shows through the pedals, which makes the inside look
striped. Seedlings have a good chance of being different from
their mother especially as time passes.
- Cassia bicapsularis - Chuck 06:23:21 1/14/00
(1)
Hi, I planted a Cassia bicapsularis recently (thanks for helping
identify it Lou in St. Augustine). I was wondering how large these
trees grow? Should I be pruning it in a certain way to achieve a more
tree-like appearance? My neighbors have had a similar tree for several
years, but they appear to want a more shrub like shape, because they
prune it regularly. Thanks, Chuck, Jacksonville FL.
- Re: Cassia bicapsularis - Jack 05:51:53
1/29/00 (0)
I have one about 4 or 5 years old and it is 8 feet tall. I keep
mine pruned like a tree because it is at the beginning of my
driveway and I don't want lower branches blocking my view as I
pull out. I also try to eliminate crossing branches which requires
regular pruning because it sends out a lot of them. I put up with
this because it is beautiful when blooming and I like the sulphur
butterflies it attracts as a larval source. Good luck. Jack, Palm
Beach Gardens,FL
- cananga - stephane 07:27:04 1/12/00 (4)
Anybody know anything about the cultivation of cananga odorata,
ylang-ylang?
- Re: cananga - eugene 08:38:09 4/09/00 (0)
:I am growing ylang-ylang from seeds.I have 6 trees about 40ft
high and I get plenty of seeds.my problem is that after they
germinate they start to die.they get to about 3in. and then the
small leafs dry.I am located in Puerto Rico in a humid area with a
lot of sun during the day.Any sugestions? Thanks.
- Re: cananga - Robert Lee Riffle 20:36:21
1/13/00 (0)
Stephane, what info in particular are you after?
- Re: cananga - Mike in Houston 19:23:04
1/12/00 (1)
Just a little here to start. I am looking for a cutting of it to
add to my garden. What I know so far is that it roots easily from
cuttings and blooms soon after establishing a root system. It is
tender so must be kept in a container and brought in if you happen
to live outside the tropics. The perfume of the flowers is one of
the most delightful fragrences I have ever experienced. It is hard
to imagine a plant makes that wonderful perfume. I'll be watching
for other comments on it and maybe we'll both add it to our
collections this year. I've seen it for sale in the Vietnamese
nurseries here in Houston, but they are quite expensive ($60 for a
5 gallon plant) I'm holding out for a cutting.
- Growing orange tree indoors - Dale 21:32:56
1/08/00 (1)
I have an orange tree that is an 8ft. high leafy stalk. It was
started from a seed about 10 yrs. ago. I would like to get information
on how to promote growth from the trunk as opposed to it getting
taller.
- Re: Growing orange tree indoors - Jim 18:37:28
1/11/00 (0)
Hi Dale, While I don't grow citrus indoors, I have grown several
types from seed. Some are now fruiting. I prune my citrus several
times a year and have since they were about 1 ft tall. Although
most sources (books) that I have found recommend NO pruning on
citrus, I disagree. I have found pruning to stimulate new growth
and I can shape the tre to make it more balanced looking. If you
cut your sprout in half, the nutrients do not have to travel as
far and with the same root mass, the tree will sprout numerous
side shoots. I don't recommend pruning with the onset of cool
weather. About a month before you want it to start growing is when
you should prune. Best, Jim
- Avocado Fruit - Lou 9A NE Fla. 20:47:08 1/08/00
(3)
I have a ten year old, sixteen ft. tall "Winter Mexican"
avocado tree in full sun at a southern location near the house. It
blooms every year and sets fruit but the fruit drop at a juvenile
stage. I do not overwater, it is on high and dry land, and I fertilize
with citrus avocado fertilizer. It is very mild this year and the
blooms are already swelling. Any suggestions for keeping the fruit
until maturity?
- Re: Avocado Fruit - Donald Locke 10:01:20
3/27/00 (0)
Dear Lou. I live in Daphne, Ala across the bay from Mobile. I
have been searching for the mexicola variety for 6mos now. Where
did you purchase yours. I do not kknow how to solve your problem
of fruit drop, but would like to help with witnessing this on my
own over hear. Thanks, Donald.: I have a ten year old, sixteen ft.
tall "Winter Mexican" avocado tree in full sun at a
southern location near the house. It blooms every year and sets
fruit but the fruit drop at a juvenile stage. I do not overwater,
it is on high and dry land, and I fertilize with citrus avocado
fertilizer. It is very mild this year and the blooms are already
swelling. Any suggestions for keeping the fruit until maturity?
- Re: Avocado Fruit - Esteban 19:37:14 1/18/00
(0)
The worst enemy of set Avocado fruit is wind! Here in Puerto
Rico we understand that our natural trees are bisexual....throwing
male flowers and female flowers at different times of the day.This
is one oif the reasons for having multiple trees in a planted
area....to have male flowers and female flowers from different
trees open at the same time.Bees love the pollen of
Avocados.....as they both live in the same type of
micro-climate.When I lived in Vieques I had 25 trees close and one
up at the house.....it also was 10 yrs old and never set
fruit......loaded with bees ,but never set fruit.The climatical
and wind conditions were perfect.
- Re: Avocado Fruit - Gary (South Texas) 15:21:23
1/12/00 (0)
Thad Magyar, of Santa Rosa Tx grows avocado, I have seen them
when in full bloom and have tasted the wounderful fruit. As I
remember right Thad said that a moth (yes a moth) pollinates the
flowers (inwhich there are thousands of flowers) I also remember
him saying that a lot of fruit drop off. If this is natural, I do
not know as I do not grow them.
- Phoenix canariensis - Lee Mullen,Chester ,U.K 14:05:57
1/04/00 (2)
I live in a Z9b area of Britain and want to plant an 8 foot specimen
of the above palm, what soil requirements should I know?
- Re: Phoenix canariensis - bart 04:48:52
2/15/00 (0)
They grow like weeds in so. california, they are one of the few
arid dry climate palms and also love good drainage. The palophiles
around here use 50% sand 50% potting soil for that type of palm as
opposed to 50% potting soil 50% small bark nuggets for most all
others. If the soil is clay like or not draining, DO NOT dig a
grave or hole as you will surely drown it , instead set the palm
on 1-2 feet of mix and create a large mound so the water will
drain away. mahalo
- Re: Phoenix canariensis - Dave Poole 18:50:20
1/09/00 (0)
A well drained, humus enriched, slightly acid soil gives the
best results Lee. You will need to find a good warm corner for it
- as with most Pheonix, it really does like summer heat and will
grow only very slowly in cool locations.
- Plumeria indoors - John IngramCA z10 10:47:37
12/29/99 (1)
I have a (somewhat) rooted cutting indoors. Should I allow this
cutting to go nearly dry this winter or try to keep it relatively
moist? It was a cutting that I purchased in Hawaii the spring of 99
(you know the packaged ones for $3.00 in the tourist trap sales
areas). I placed it in water hoping to root it that way and only had a
few leaves form and fall off after a week or so. No roots formed
beyond the 1 mm size white "bumps". I potted the cutting
into a soilless medium, watered it, placed it in a clear storage
container, and closed it. It has not been watered since but has been
very moist. I noticed that mold started to grow on the leaves that
were beginning to open (these were touching the lid and subsequently
the moisture there). I have removed the pot and it seems to have stale
soil but there is resistance when the plant is tugged upon so maybe
there are roots finally. Anyway, my question is, put it back into the
container to stay warm and moist or leave it out and let it dry?
Thanks for all your help. John
- Re: Plumeria indoors - Irene 23:56:37 1/01/00
(0)
I rooted plumeria cuttings last winter indoors and am going
through the process now with a cutting I brought back from the
Carribbean. I use a redwood bark and lava rock combination, so it
is a mix without soil and with very good drainage. I water the
cutting every 24 hours; the water flows right through the mix.
Last year the cuttings rooted without any problem, and in the
Spring I moved them outdoors and transplanted them into a larger
pot with the same mix. They grew leaves but did not bloom the
first year. I would not recommend letting your mix dry out.
Plumeria in Hawaii grow where there is porous (volcanic) soil and
frequent rain. Hope you have success!
- cutting back ginger - brad 14:21:41 12/18/99
(1)
I have a 3 foot tall Hedychium coronarium whose leaves have
shriveled due to cold damage. It has been in a warmer room for a week
and the leaves have only gotten worse. Can I cut the stalks back and
how far back, ground level or to a leaf node? I'd appreciate any
suggestions. Thanks!
- austin - eric stearns 11:24:40 12/17/99 (2)
How is the Austin climate for tropicals? Which plants do best?
- Re: austin - Eric Evans 22:13:41 12/18/99
(0)
That's a pretty broad question. By narrow definition of "tropical",
the answer is "almost none". But I assume you mean "tropical-looking".
In that case, I can assure you there are plenty of perfectly hardy
plants with either the "wet-tropical" or "dry-tropical"
looks that do well here. The key limits I've found for many such
plants are, oddly enough, the heat and dryness of summer more than
the cold of winter. E.g., gingers do very well in moist- summer
Houston, but they pretty much wither away every Summer here in the
black clay of my area, regardless of how much water I futilely
pour down the soil cracks. Also, soil varies *tremendously* from
one place to another in Austin, from deep black clay in my yard to
solid limestone rock less than 1 mile west of me, so where you
live will have a big effect on what does well for you.
In my yard in north-central Austin I've had the following plants
through at least 3 or 4 winters, and some since 1993. I typically
give them no special winter protection, unless it's going below
20F. I also see most of these elsewhere around town, so they're
not rarities that only the dedicated can grow (I have 2 small
children and little time for pampering my plants, even if I had
the desire in the 100F days of summer!). This list ain't
exhaustive, either: Palms and other evergreens:
Sabal
mexicana ("Texas palm")
Sabal X texensis (the "Brazoria
palm")
Sabal minor ("dwarf palmetto", or where
I grew up, just "palmetta")
Butia capitans ("pindo"
or "jelly" palm)
Chaemeraops ("mediterranean
fan palm")
Trachycarpus fortunei ("windmill plam")
Holly ferns
Agave americana
Yucca rostrata and
recurvifolia
Bamboos (3 species)
Satsuma mandarin orange
(the only thing I throw a sheet over when it goes into the low
20s)
Aspidistra ("cast-iron plant"; impervious to
all agents of destruction except direct sun)
Texas mountain
laurel
Great-performing "tropical" perennials: Bananas (do
very well here in decent soil, even after it dries out in summer;
they never wilt!) Hoja santa (Piper something, "root beer
plant"; huge round leaves and up to 9 feet of height each
season; best in shade to part-shade) Cannas Honorable mention
(i.e., not so good in my yard but others seem to have better luck,
probably with better soil and/or more water): Elephant ears (not
so well without tons of extra water) Gingers, butterfly and
stripes (ditto above) Fatsia/aralia (I see these every where in
central and east Austin, but I've killed about 4 so far; there
must some secret to getting them established here) Tetrapanax ("rice-paper"
plant; ditto Fatsia, though I don't see it as much as fatsia)
Aucuba (ditto Fatsia again; mine just sit there and don't grow,
year after year) Good luck. If you have specific questions, email
me. I know of some good local sources for plants if you want to
know where to find them. - Eric E
- Re: austin - Gary (South Texas) 13:05:49
12/18/99 (0)
Hi Eric, If you take the link below you will see Joe
Montgomery's Garden, one of the best gardens in Austin. also Bill
Baker is the Palm Society of South Texas, chairman and he lives in
Austin. I think his email address is listed on the page, if not
email me and I will get it to you. Also, I'd like to invite you to
the next meeting! A great bunch of people and we have alot of
fun!!!! Austin
PSST Meeting
- Fool-Proof Croton Leaf Preservation? - Alvin 10:37:31
12/11/99 (1)
Every year, I run into the same problem after bringing my croton
plants indoors. The lower leaves always fall off. By the following
spring, the plants look ragged. Someone advised me before to gradually
reduce the amount of sunlight, before making the indoor transition. I
tried this, but the leaves are still falling off. This is occuring
even under high-intensity lights. However, I have had to spray for
spider mites a couple of times. I am wondering if this is the problem
this time.
- Chorisa insignis - John IngramCA z10 01:28:22
12/08/99 (1)
Does anyone no the cold tolerance of this tree? It is supposed to be
larger and more cold tolerant than C. speciosa which grows here really
well. Thanks for the input. John
- Re: Chorisa insignis - Robert Lee Riffle 12:11:55
12/08/99 (0)
John, in truth, there's not much diff in the hardiness to cold
of the two but C. insignis is slightly hardier--maybe half a USDA
zone at most. Also I think you've got it reversed: C. insignis is
slightly smaller growing than is C. speciosa.
- Is this pink tabebuia?? - Alexis 14:45:49
12/07/99 (3)
I have a question concerning a tree that is widely planted in South
Florida. Its pink flowers look just like the yellow flowers from a
trumpet tree (tabebuia caraiba), except they are obviously pink. This
leads me to believe it is the pink trumpet tree. The tree however
grows very large unlike the tabebuia caraiba, which only grows to
about 15ft. This pink one easily grows to 25ft or even more. Its bark
is also quite different and I don't believe it is deciduous. Any ideas
as to what it might be? I've only seen it in South Florida and not in
Central Florida. Any help would be appreciated. Alexis
- Re: Is this pink tabebuia?? - Robert Lee Riffle
16:20:57 12/07/99 (2)
Alexis, there are many pink-flowered Tabebuia species--in fact
there are probably more pink ones than white or yellow. The one in
question might be T. impetiginosa; it is the most widespread
species, ranging from northern Mexico to northern Argentina. As a
result of this great natural range it is also the most variable
species with specimens growing from a max of 30 feet to as much as
100 feet. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Wodyetia cultural conditions - Chow Khoon, Yeo 06:35:12
12/05/99 (3)
Being from Singapore, I would like to know the growing requirements
of the palm in an equitorial environment and how they differ from that
in the monsoonal environment of its natural range, N.E. Queensland.
Some specific things that I would like to find out about include
fertilizer requirements, soil type preference, and effects of the lack
of seasonal variations on the developement of the palm. I would also
like to know whta are thw pests and diseases that I should look out
for. Thanks for any attempts made to answer my queries.
- Re: Wodyetia cultural conditions - Robert Lee Riffle
09:03:58 12/05/99 (2)
Yeo, Wodyetia is nearly foolproof in a tropical or nearly
tropical climate--as long as it is planted in a site with good
drainage. It prefers a soil that is slightly acidic in pH but
seems to do quite well on unamended southern Florida soils which
are rather alkaline. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award
winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Re: Wodyetia pests? - Chow Khoon, Yeo 07:22:08
12/06/99 (1)
I have read about the repuation of Wodyetia being a hardy
palm, able to tolerate salt sprays, resistant to lethal
yellowing mycoplasm etc. Are there any disease and pest that I
should be looking out for? By the way I have found your book
to be a good reference. Hope to see a larger section on palms
in editions to follow.
- Re: Wodyetia pests? - Robert Lee Riffle
09:08:06 12/06/99 (0)
Yeo, I know of no pests that are a real problem with
Wodyetia. I'm sure there are, but not in the s.e. U.S.--at
least that I'm aware of. Thanks for the book compliment. I
am working at the moment on an encyclopedia of palms. rlr
- A Little Humor - kathy 18:49:41 12/03/99 (0)
.
- Canary Island Date Palm - Nick M. 11:13:53
12/01/99 (1)
I've got a few small (1ft. tall) canary island date palms and would
like to know if any body out there would have info. as far as how fast
they will grow? We have them every where here in Ventura Ca. but up
untill this point I,ve never realy paid attention to how fast they
grow. Also, I know they will grow wild with virtualy no water (it
rains about 13 inches a year here if were lucky) So if anybody out
there can give me some stats. on a tree they have, or know of, and
weather it has been assisted in growth (fertilizing & reagular
watering) or not, I would greatly appreciate it. thanks for any info.
- Re: Canary Island Date Palm - Jim 18:13:51
12/01/99 (0)
Hi Nick, I have several canarys here in Naples, FL. that I
started from seed. They sprouted ~8-91. For the first couple years
one grew about 2 ft/yr. At about 4 yr old it started growing about
3ft/yr. It was planted in an old rotted pine stump. The others
were planted in sand (our soil), and 5 yrs were about 8ft. Haven't
measured them since '96, but they have about 3 ft trunk diameter
and are now fruiting. Hope this helps, Jim
- Inquiry for araucaria excelsa & bismarkia noblis seedlings
- Hassan shafiq 04:36:40 12/01/99 (2)
Dear Sirs, We are intrested in araucaria excelsa & bismarkia
noblis seedlings .We need them in large quantities as we are whole
sale suppliers of different plants and seedlings in Pakistan .Please
tell us its availability. Also inform us about its price. Looking
forward for a favourable reply. Regards Hassan
- Re: Inquiry for araucaria excelsa & bismarkia noblis
seedlings - Esteban Mcgrath 07:57:45 12/01/99 (1)
Hassan this plant(Araucaria excwlsa will germinate very nicely
at 25C+ and hates to be shipped when small.Larger(1 m+) will go
anywhere,but in your case too expensive the frt. Recommend you
plant seed and sell that way or you will be doing yourself in. I
have maybe 400 that are 5-10 cm tall if you insist. Esteban
McGrath Loresco San Juan,Puerto Rico
- Caryota mitis with rusty brown fuzz on rachi and new spears -
Marvel Jones 16:25:21 11/27/99 (2)
I have a 10 gallon common fishtail palm growing in the interior of
my home. I have had it for about one year. In the last month it has
begun to develop rusty brown powder on all ofthe petioles, rachii, and
secondary rachii. The rusty brown powder also heavily covers the
outside of new unopened spears. The opened leaves for the most part
appear to be lush green,healthy and unaffected, although a couple are
beginning to turn yellow and brown. The fuzz can easily be wiped off
with a finger or squirted of with vigorous pressure from a hose and
reveals normal appearing palm after washed. The same thing happened to
another fishtail that I had 2 years ago and it died shortly after
rusty fuzz appeared despite washing palm and spraying with malathion.
I have about a dozen other palm species growing inside my home and
none of them has ever had a similar problem. Can anyone give me any
advice as to what is going on? Thanks
- hibiscus replanting question - lisa bee 12:11:28
11/27/99 (2)
I have a hibiscus that I planted 5 years ago. I want to replant to a
different spot on my lawn. Is there any special pre-treatment things I
need to do first, before digging it out of the ground? I live in So.
Florida...thanks for your attention to this matter.
- Re: hibiscus replanting question - larry 17:19:01
12/02/99 (0)
I just transplanted a large hibiscus and after moving it to the
new site, I covered the branches with plastic bags that you get
from the laundry. It seemed to work well. I left the bags on for
about 3 weeks and there was only minimal leaf drop.
- Re: hibiscus replanting question - Jim 18:38:17
11/27/99 (0)
Hi Lisa, I also live in So. (western) Fl. If you dig up a
hibiscus during the winter, I would recommned pruning to about
half its current height. Chances are the sandy soil(?) will fall
right off the roots when it is dug up. The less stored energy the
plant has to use to keep the leaves alive is that much more for it
to produce new roots. Keep it moist but not saturated. And I would
NOT fertilize until spring. Best, Jim
- Zauschneria - Simon Freyou 08:41:03 11/27/99
(2)
Any east coast gardeners have luck with Zauschneria?
- Re: Zauschneria - Tim Alderton 14:09:33
3/10/00 (0)
Oh! I forgot to tell you I am in zone 5 in western PA
- Re: Zauschneria - Tim Alderton 14:07:30
3/10/00 (0)
I had luck with Z. garrettii "Orange Carpet" from High
Country Gardens. This is the first winter ithad, but it is
starting to grow a little. It dies to the ground and only gets to
about 6" tall. It bloomed well last year starting in late
August.
- Tropica book - Steve 20:43:59 11/23/99 (3)
Hello all - just got a new book yesterday---"Tropica", by
Alfred Graff....it is absolutely the best book about tropical plants I
have ever seen!! ( except of course our fellow-in-list's "
Tropical Look" ) It does have alot of pictures ( 8000 !!!) &
had me drooling all day yesterday....now there are at least 20-30
plants that I MUST HAVE !!! Riffle's book does have quite a few that
aren't displayed in Graff's, so they make a great pair. Only
drawback...mucho $$$$ ( 160$!!) Stephen in New Orleans
- cook pine - Barbara Mikles 05:38:43 11/22/99
(2)
I am looking for an araucaria columnaris to buy, does someone have
one or a cone? thank you
- Re: cook pine/more info - george in bandon,oregon
12:31:58 11/28/99 (0)
according to their catalog, pacific treefarms in chula vista,
california is selling 5-gallon plants of a colunmaris for
mail-order. their phone number is 619-422-2400.
- Re: cook pine - george in bandon,oregon 19:43:04
11/26/99 (0)
i believe austr hort--an australian seed company sells seed of
araucaria columnaris. their web address is www.farrar.com.au good
luck.
- Citrus - John IngramCA z10 23:14:30 11/20/99
(3)
I'm sure this is a basic question,,,,,,but,,,,,I have several citrus
that have taken off last year as well as this year. Now they are
beginning to look chlorotic. I followed my regular three month citrus
fertilizer routine that gave them a jump start last year after 20
years of just sitting in their pots. So, why are they turning
chlorotic now after two good years of growth and fertilizer? Did I add
too much fertilizer? Should I add more organic matter? What do these
plants need? they have begun to set good fruit and I would like to
keep it if at all possible. The trees in question are dwarf varieties
of grapefruit, kumquat, and orange. The specific varieties I don't
know.
- Re: Citrus - Robert Lee Riffle 21:53:12
11/24/99 (2)
John, I'm not sure what's wrong with them (it would help to
actually see them) but if you have had an unusual amount of rain
lately, the nutrients (fert) you added could well have been washed
away in an untimely manner
- Re: Citrus - Dave Poole 01:49:13 11/25/99
(1)
John, try 'Epsom Salts' (Magnesium sulphate)watered in
around your plants. Aply a gallon to each plant at a dilution
rate of one ounce per gallon of water. Many Citrus seem to be
prone to magnesium deficiency and even those which are fed
with a special citrus fertiliser can suffer from time to time.
The magnesium is best applied in early spring when new growth
is about to start. I always give this to my Citrus each year.
- Palm trees - Donna Whittemore 12:39:00 11/18/99
(1)
I live in Mesquite Nevada and have a couple palms in my landscape
(Mexican palm trees). They have been in the landscape since last
March. Right now the frongs seem to be drooping alot and they are
still green. Should they have more water or are they getting too much
water. How do palm trees like to be watered. Thank you for your
help....oh yes should the frongs be trimmed now?
- Ixora Plants - Victor 18:50:08 11/14/99 (1)
My Ixora plants are not doing well. The leaves are showing the veins
quite prominently. The flower and leaf production is very poor. I have
fertilized them and they get watered every other day. Can you tell me
what the problem may be. Thanks
- Re: Ixora Plants - Robert Lee Riffle 20:53:42
11/15/99 (0)
Victor, it would really help to know whether these plants are in
containers or planted out; and also (especially if planted
out)where you/ they are. In any case it sounds like chlorosis, a
lack of iron and/or a too high pH, which azalea/camellia fert will
cure if used according to directions.
- Macadamia - Donna 07:18:28 11/09/99 (2)
Anyone have any experience with macadamia trees???
- Re: Macadamia - Jeff 16:51:33 11/15/99 (0)
I have quite alot of experiance with Macs in N. Calif. The most
hardy var. is called Dr. Beaumont that does quite well here and
will grow where temps don't drop below 20F. I have a 4 year old
tree survive with some damage at 21f. Jeff
- Re: Macadamia - Jim 16:55:36 11/09/99 (0)
Hi Donna, I'm in Naples, Fl. and have trouble with them. I'm
about 5 miles from the beach. Several friends of mine have them
closer to the beach and they are growing very well. I get a frost
almost every year and it appears that they cannot handle any
frost. One friend has about 20 different varieties and all have
variable quality nuts. Macadamia nuts are far and away my favorite
nut. The best advice I can offer is to buy "Mauna Loa"
brand nuts. They are great. Jim.
- Banyan in Jax. - Chuck 21:33:03 11/05/99 (6)
Well, this is quite amazing. I saw a banyan tree in Jacksonville
Florida. It is located on the corner of University Blvd and La Playa
Dr. It is approximately 30 ft tall and is already extending aerial
roots. It is amazing. I was so surprised I almost crashed my car. If
you want a picture, I can post one here when my film is developed.
Chuck
- Re: Banyan in Jax. - Andy 19:27:16 11/07/99
(2)
What is a Banyan tree? Scientific name??? Andy
- Re: Banyan in Jax. - Gary (South Texas) 12:17:50
11/06/99 (2)
Yes, please post a picture of the banyan tree growing in
Jacksonville! I'd Love to see it.
- Re: Banyan in Jax. - Lou St. Aug, FL 21:04:45
11/07/99 (1)
There was quite a large banyan tree or ficus of some sort
that had multiple aerial roots at Washington Oaks State Park
just south of Marineland for years. Back in the 1980's during
one of the freezes it froze almost all the way back. However,
the last time I was there it was still growing but it must
have come back from the root level and was much smaller than
way back in the 1980's. So one in Jax is very probable.
- Re: Banyan in Jax. - bruce 18:52:42
2/08/00 (0)
In Reply to: Re: Banyan in Jax. posted by Lou St. Aug,
FL on November 07, 1999 at 21:04:45: Some other surprising
plant sightings in NE Florida: 1987 a mature, blooming
Cattley guava on the grounds in front of an historic
Victroian north end of Fernandina. Also a very old 30'
olive tree in town next to an old Catholic school (I think
it was). More recently: just north of San Jose/Hendricks
split, gentleman on right side facing north on old San
Jose has huge tree fern, ti plants and some tropical palm
that looks like an immature roystonea in his front yard,
about 8'. Also in that neighborhood, 30' avocado off
Gadsden. Been a little cold there last 2 weeks but hasn't
been a bad freeze since '85 - knock on palm wood.
- Whiteflies - plumeria & Hibiscus - Larry in Calif.
12:20:51 11/05/99 (3)
need any and all info on containing an infestation of white flies on
my plumeria and Hibiscus. Tried and True formulas appreciated Thanks,
larry palmking@concentric.net
- Re: Whiteflies - plumeria & Hibiscus - Kevin
13:47:36 3/05/00 (0)
I had them bad here in Santa Barbara last year on my 9 Hibiscus
plants. Insecticidal soap did not work at all, reluctantly used
malathion at double strength. Eradicated 99% of them, now I just
blast the plants with water once a week or so and they keep in
check. Hope this helps.
- Re: Whiteflies - plumeria & Hibiscus - Andy
19:29:16 11/07/99 (0)
I have the same problem, however, the first recipe mix does work
just fine! It does not harm the hibiscus at all!! Be advised,
though, that Malathion oil will do considerable damage to
Hibiscus! I tried it before.. :( Andy Jax, FL
- Re: Whiteflies - plumeria & Hibiscus - Esteban
McGrath 11:03:00 11/06/99 (0)
Use a 3oz liquid vel/1 oz cooking oil/1 oz Baking soda(Arm and
Hammer) per gal.of mix for maintenance.Spray twice weekly. Try
malathion 2.5 oz per gallon H20 every other day until
erradicated.If in pots, use Marathon one tsp powder or as
recommended.If you have a license, contact your "vegetable
farmers " commercial suppliers and they can sell exactly the
product you need.Here in Puerto Rico when I was in vegetables the
USDA APHSIS PPQ director in my area,Raphael Charneco had the tiny
wasps released in my old okra fields to see the effect on the
White-fly infestation which was giving us hell.This test was on
open fields and we were spraying twice weekly on the new crops as
well.In otherwords we were killing the tiny wasps also.Well after
6 mos of cooperation with the PPQ people there was so little
infestation that we could count maybe 4-5 (WF)per drip valve
(3.35Acres). On an enclosed area ,I am sold on the wasps and they
are readily available!Get a saleman's recdcomendation and buy
twice the amount he recommends! I our green house we use Marathom
in the soil and are going to increase the wasps for Jasminum and
Gardenias.Those little white flys really can weaken the plants and
if you don't take immediate care....they will cause the debility
of the plant to the effect that any thing will kill it. Suerte
Esteban
- Pandanus - John Ingram 21:08:58 11/04/99 (1)
Does anyone know the minimum temperatures of Pandanus species? I'm
looking into P. pygmaeus, P. purpurescens, P. montanus, P. utilis, and
P. baptistii. Would shade help or be detramental to strong growth? Any
suggestions would help. Thanks, John
- Cassia? - Chuck 16:49:19 11/02/99 (3)
Hi, I bought a tree early this summer at home depot. It was simply
labeled "cassia". I know that the cassia genus are the
shower trees or whatever they go by. Anyway, they said that this tree
is hardy in Jacksonville (my microclimate is 9b). Is this true? Are
there any cassia hardy in Jacksonville? This thing has really taken
off, and is flowering like crazy now. Will it survive the winter?
Thanks, Chuck, jax fl.
- Re: Cassia? - Lou in St. Augustine 21:19:12
11/16/99 (0)
Chuck, Most likely the variety that you bought was a "cassia
bicapsilaris" This grows to a small tree here in Northeast
Florida. Before the severe freezes of the 1980's there were many
cassias here in Northeast Florida and they were very popular. They
had always been hardy here up until that time. They again are
gaining popularity. Luckily it has been ten years since we had
those devastating freezes. They all died during that time even
here by the ocean. What part of Jax do you live in? I would think
you have more of a chance of damage if you live on the westside or
northside, but only during the worst winters we experience. Good
luck!
- Re: Cassia? - Robert Lee Riffle 18:31:39
11/02/99 (1)
Chucj, yes, there are Cassia species hardy in JAX. If you can
describe the leaves and flowers (and do either emit a fragrance?)
I (or someone here) can probably i.d. the species and confirm
whether it is hardy in northern Fl or not. Robert Lee Riffle,
author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Re: Cassia? - Chuck 20:00:51 11/02/99
(0)
Hi, thanks a lot. It's good to know that whatever it is is
probably hardy in Jacksonville. I'm out of town right now, so
I will have to save the specific ID of the plant for a little
while. Thanks for the help
- Royal Poinciana - Pat McClure 10:22:26 11/02/99
(4)
Can the Royal Poinciana survive Oklahoma Weather? I live in "Green
Country" (about 45 miles south of Tulsa).
- Re: Royal Poinciana - Jim 17:57:47 11/02/99
(1)
Hi Pat, If it is any consolation, I have lost several young
potted Poincianas due to an unexpected cold spell here in Naples,
Fl. Also, while absolutely beautiful while in bloom, they are one
of the messiest trees I know. All those blooms turn into pea pods
about 1 foot long and hundreds of them cover the ground. The tree
is also weak-wooded and old limbs are always littering the lawn.
Don't get me wrong, it's a pretty tree, but that beauty has its
price. Best, Jim
- Re: Royal Poinciana - Laure 18:31:20
6/07/00 (0)
I read your e-mail and I was recently in Costa Rica and fell
in love with these trees. I would love to own one or more of
these trees. Do you know where I could buy one of these trees?
Thanks, Laure in Houston, TX
- Re: Royal Poinciana - Robert Lee Riffle 11:51:55
11/02/99 (1)
Pat, in a word, "no." Royal poinciana is iffy even in
the warmest parts of south Texas. Go for Caesalpinia giliesii with
yellow and red flowers, a shrub almost hardy in OK. Robert Lee
Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
- Puerto Rico - Bruce Peters 11:47:43 10/28/99
(2)
Hey all! I'm going to Puerto Rico for a week soon and was wondering
if anyone has any good recommendations as to good plant/garden spot to
visit? I don't really know anything about Puerto Rico yet so any ideas
are GREATLY appreciated!
- Re: Puerto Rico - Lynn McKamey 10:13:52
10/29/99 (0)
Check out the information at Where2Stay in the Caribbean - take
the Island link at the top to Puerto Rico. Where2Stay
Caribbean Info
- Re: Puerto Rico - Marcelo 05:37:17 10/29/99
(0)
The Botanical Gardens in Rio Piedras are supposed to be
excellent (have never been there). Also, seek out Esteban from
this forum. He has a ownderful tropical plants nursery and the
plants I;ve ordered from him are superb! Marcelo
- Blooming-age Plumeria - Alvin Anderson 00:12:22
10/28/99 (1)
This past spring, I acquired a plumeria seedling It grew to about 1
foot. Someone told me that it can take 3-5 yrs for such a seedling to
bloom. Is this true? If so, where do I obtain plants that are blooming
age? Does any ship through the mail?
- Guanabana - M Platt 11:11:32 10/22/99 (5)
Does anyone have a clue where I could purchase/ order/ import fresh
guanabanas for photographing? I have searched the web aimlessly -
PLEASE HELP!
- cycas revoluta - Wilhelm Bam 23:07:41 10/21/99
(3)
I am looking for a wholesaler or grower of cycas revoluta-I also
have thourasii seed available
- Re: cycas revoluta - Esteban 07:13:14
10/28/99 (1)
We grow them in Puerto Rico and have about 200 specimen plants
available now as well as smaller sizes. How many are you looking
for? Esteban Loresco
- Re: cycas revoluta - Gary (South Texas) 08:16:20
10/22/99 (0)
Try Lynn McKamey's Rhapis Gardens she also Wholesales cycas
revoluta.
- Royal Poinciana in the Mojave? - Dave Roalkvam 20:12:44
10/20/99 (2)
Hey, anyone out there know if a Royal Poinciana will grow in the Las
Vegas area, assuming I've got the proper irrigation? Thanks!!
- Re: Royal Poinciana in the Mojave? - Robert Lee
Riffle 16:26:34 10/21/99 (0)
Dave, the royal poinciana (Delonix regia) is much too tender to
cold tot survive in LV. The photo Gary posted is of Caesalpinia
pulcherrima, aka "pride of Barbados" which is marginal
in LV, used as an annual or sometimes- returning perennial.
Caesalpinia gilliesii is hardy in LV and almost as nice as C.p.,
but has mostly yellow flowers as opposed to the red of C.p. Robert
Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Re: Royal Poinciana in the Mojave? - Gary (South
Texas) 07:20:37 10/21/99 (0)
: Hey, anyone out there know if a Royal Poinciana will grow in
the Las Vegas area, assuming I've got the proper irrigation?
Thanks!!
Hi Dave;
You might try Caesalpinia gilliesii, it is quite
cold hardy.
C.pulcherrima (pride od Barbados)also might work
it is more of a shrub, but the flowers are beautiful!
- A Public Invitation to Robert L. Riffle's Image Gallery -
Gary (South Texas) 07:53:10 10/20/99 (0)
We first met Robert Riffle through the internet when he found our
Tropical Attitudes Gardening Forum and began sharing his immense
wealth of knowledge. That was in 1997 when The Tropical Look was still
a collection of files on his computer. In 1998 his wo rk was
published, and in 1999 he received well-deserved recognition when the
American Horticultural Society chose The Tropical Look for the 1999
Book of the Year Award.
Robert is now working on two more books. One will be devoted
entirely to palm trees (always our personal favorite here at Digital
Raingardens), and tropical landscaping will be the topic of the other.
Somehow, Robert finds time to fit in other activities. He participates
in several gardening message boards, gives frequent tours at the Me
rcer Arboretum in Houston, travels often to seek out new specimens of
his favorite plants or gardening events, and occasionally appears as a
public speaker. During the summer of 1999 he has been a most welcome
guest at the Palm Society of South Texas meet ings.
After you read The Tropical Look and look through the images in this
garden gallery, you will realize that he is truly a garden guru. His
primary motivation for this gallery, however, is to pay tribute to
Alton Marshall, a gardener and friend whom Robert admired very much.
Alton's garden no longer exists, except in the memories of friends and
here in cyberspace. Robert's knowledge of plants and outstanding
ability to describe them in a meaningful way is rivalled only by his
skill as a photographer . We are honored be part of Alton's tribute
and to have Robert for a friend and colleague.
Gary & Jana
Meiser
- mast tree - Marcelo B. Aspiras 19:44:56 10/17/99
(3)
Has anyone heard of Polyalthia longifolia, the "mast tree"?
It seems to be a rather rare plant in the New World troics, though it
ts fairly common in the tropical Far East. Thanks, Marcelo
- Re: mast tree - Robert Lee Riffle 09:51:43
10/18/99 (2)
Yes, Marcelo, have heard of it and seen it. There are a couple
thriving at Fairchild Tropical Garden in Miami. It is related to
(in the same family as) the cherimoya, believe it or not, and is a
sacred tree to Hindu peoples in India and other Asian countries.
The cultivar P. longifolia 'Pendula' is the one usually planted
nowadays because of its very narrow (fastigiate) growth form.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Re: mast tree - Marcelo B. Aspiras 20:29:06
10/18/99 (1)
Thanks, Robert, for the insightful reply. Ah, so that means
it is of the same family as the ilang ilang (Cananga odorata).
Would you know if the mast tree produces noteworthy blooms,
either in the manner of aesthetics or fragrance? Thanks again.
Marcelo
- Re: mast tree - Robert Lee Riffle 23:08:36
10/18/99 (0)
Yes, Polyalthia is in the same family as Cananga and,
yes, the blossoms of the former are fragrant but not
nearly as strong as those of the ylang-ylang; they are
also small and an unexciting yellowish green in color, but
give way to attractive small yellow fruits.
- China Doll - Ffion 08:39:46 10/16/99 (2)
Hi: I read an old message about this plant, but could do with some
help. Should I keep it constantly watered? I noticed I'm loosing whole
branches which just shrivel up and drop off. Also should I mist it
every day? It faces a South window, but the air is a bit dry. Also -
big problem - it came to me complete with little ants, which have also
infested my ficus and given it scale. Help......
- Ae Ae varigated banana - Paul Leitkowski 08:31:21
10/15/99 (10)
I would greatly apprieciate any info on this unusual tree. Planting
suggestions,fertilization,care.ect.I live in S.Fla.so I know it will
do well here.
- Re: Ae Ae varigated banana - Jeff - FL 11:39:06
10/16/99 (9)
Paul, I have talked to many banana experts at plant shows in FL
and they all agree it is a very difficult plant to grow. The ph
has to be just right or the plant will be too white and will not
survive. Also the sun will burn the white portions of the leaves.
Everyone I spoke to that has tried growing one has lost it. I have
20 different banana varieties myself and would love to try to grow
one sometime but the price for an Ae Ae is very expensive
$75-$100. "Going Bananas" in Homestead have them but you
have to get on the waiting list. Don and Katie are very
knowledgeable and may be able to give you some growing tips. Good
luck if you decide to try growing one.
- Re: Ae Ae varigated banana - Simon Freyou
08:10:12 11/27/99 (0)
I have read that there is a varigated variety of musa
basjoo. Has anyone heard of or seen this plant? Would this
plant be easier than Ae Ae?
- Re: Ae Ae varigated banana - Tom 11:12:39
10/18/99 (5)
Here are some tips: 1. Give only morning sun or use shade
cloth to prevent burning. 2. Use only fish emulsion and
seaweed extract for fertiliser. Remember, the white parts do
nothing for plant growth, so if the plant has 50% white it
will grow 50% slower than the green varieties. Other than
that, I see know difference in growing this variety than any
other.
- Re: Ae Ae varigated banana - Paul 14:21:33
10/17/99 (1)
Jeff: Thank you for the valuable information. You saved me
$75 worth of future heart-ache.
- Re: Ae Ae varigated banana - Esteban McGrath
06:29:06 11/01/99 (0)
We are growers in Puerto Rico and can propagate this
cultivar on our farm.If someone can get me the "seed"
or corm or whatever you call it in English ,I can
propagate them and supply them to everybody @ a very
reasonable price.We grow many types of bananas for
consumption(Nino,,Manzano,Gran Nain ,Cavendish
Dwarf,Mafafo(Orinico) and Maricongo platanos.We also grow
the ornamentals for market and in conjunction with Mark
Coopman who is "Mr Tropical" in Iowa, the yellow
flowering Chinese variety.
- Musella lasiocarpa - lea meilak 22:10:17 10/14/99
(2)
can you tell me anything about this facinating plant. what
temperature can it be grown in and does it need any special treatment
- Coconuts for planting - C. Nystrom 21:23:44
10/13/99 (1)
I have found a lot of interest from folks who are interested in
trying to germinate a coconut. I have viable coconuts in my yard here
in the Keys that I'm willing to send to people who will pay postage.
I've sent a bunch already but there are always more! E-mail me if you
are interested.
- Tropical Plants - Elwood Stump 20:01:44 10/11/99
(2)
What tropical plants can I grow in Houston in very heavy clay soils?
I have some minor soil amendments in the top 3 or 4 inches, but down
lower the soil is terrible and I cannot add more because it will be
too high and heavy rains will drain into the house.
- Re: Tropical Plants - Gary (South Texas) 19:13:12
10/12/99 (1)
Edwood, Below is a link to Robert L. Riffle's Image Gallery. Lot
of tropical, subtropical and tropical looking, plants can be grown
in Houston. As far as your soil goes, you might want to check out
Mike Burnett's "A Gulf Coast Garden" found at
http://iconx.com/index.shtml You could email or post a message on
"The Gulf Breeze Message Board" at
http://iconx.com/html/the_breeze.html Hope this helps.
- Fertlizering Palm Trees - Frank Starnes 14:17:15
10/09/99 (1)
What fertlizer should be used to fertlize palm tree? How ofter
should they be fertlized?
- Re: Fertlizering Palm Trees - Gary (South Texas)
08:11:36 10/10/99 (0)
Frank, Where are y'all from, this would help. I fertilize about
three times during the growing season, with a slow release
fertilizer 15-5-15 with micros.
- Hawaiian Hibiscus Tree?? - Pam Corley 21:36:02
10/07/99 (3)
Does anyone know anything about this tree? We saw some at a nursery
in Corpus Christi, but can find no information as to their hardiness
or characteristics. If you have any experience or knowledge about this
tree, please let us know. Thanks.
- Re: Hawaiian Hibiscus Tree?? - Gary (South Texas)
06:26:05 10/08/99 (2)
Hi Pam; The Hawaiian white hibiscus (arnottianus) is a native to
Hawaii, and unlike most other hibiscus, it is very fragrant! Very
tropical in its requirements. Might do best as a potted plant and
brought indoors when temps get below 40F. Where did you find it,
(Turners)?
- Palm Trees for Oregon - Rocky Groene 18:32:53
10/06/99 (2)
Hi anyone: I have three acres here in NW oregon I want to plant in
Palms and experiment with. Does anyone know of nurserys where group of
50 or more could be found? Im in the Portland area and am wondering if
there is a closer location than San fransisco...........
- Re: Palm Trees for Oregon - Ian in Olympia 14:14:56
10/12/99 (0)
You can get palms from time to time through the Pacific
Northwest Palm and Exotic Plant Society. In addition to the annual
plant sale in May in Vancouver BC, palms are often also available
for sale or trade at PNWPEPS meetings. (Most meetings are held in
BC but there are also some meetings in Washington and Oregon.)
Mail ordering palms is probably the only other way besides this to
obtain a wide range of species for testing. However, if you want
them all at once, now, I think Jana's advice is the best you're
going to get! And if you need further advice (i.e. about what
species are worth trying) you are welcome to join us at the
Northwest palms discussion board:
http://www.insidetheweb.com/mbs.cgi/mb40077
- Re: Palm Trees for Oregon - Jana 21:21:45
10/07/99 (0)
Well, if Gary and I had any influence at all with our buying
habits back in our Oregon days, hopefully the answer is "YES!"
The best palms we purchased came from Portland Nursery (the one on
Division). Maybe the name was Portland Greenhouse. Even Home Depot
carried palms up there, but get them when they are fresh off the
truck. And know what you're looking for. You're not likely to find
anyone at a place like Home Depot who can identify a palm that's
labeled "foliage". I'd wager a guess, though, that if
you find a place with 50 palms, you'd be wiping out their
inventory. For a quantity like that, a good nursery could make a
special order for you. Oregon definitely needs more palms! Good
luck.
- white bird of paradise (Strelitzia nicolai) - Lori Jones
09:52:51 10/05/99 (1)
I have purchased a white bird of paradise, about 8 ft tall and want
to plant it in my back yard. (North Padre Island). What are the
optimum conditions? Any advice would be helpful. thanks.
- Re: white bird of paradise (Strelitzia nicolai) - Gary
(South Texas) 08:12:41 10/06/99 (0)
Lori: Strelitzia nicolai, should do well on Padre Island. We
have two. One is planted in full sun, the other receiving about
80% sun. You might want to amend your soil, by adding some organic
matter. Feed when young to push to full size, then cut back.
Gunter Schmidt, has one growing out in Ingleside by the Bay (away
from the water) and it flowered this year after planting it about
three years ago. Both of ours flowered this year, after 2 years.
Both planted from 5 gallon pots @ about 3 feet tall. One is over
10 feet while the other about 7 feet. There are some in Corpus
that are 20 feet tall!
- Chinese Fan Palm growing too large & taking over backyard
- Linda 07:28:34 10/05/99 (1)
I live in Southeast Florida. A Chinese Fan Palm that we planted in
our backyard is growing too well, it is spreading out too far and
taking over our backyard. Short of removing it, can its bottom fronds
be cut off thereby stopping the bottom portion of the palm from
covering anymore grass as well as preventing the bottom fronds from
touching shrubs and covering them up. I'm pretty sure that I can
remove the bottom fronds but how will the plant look?
- Re: Chinese Fan Palm growing too large & taking over
backyard - Maren Purves 14:42:24 10/07/99 (0)
They tend to do that :-) Bottom fronds can be cut off without
problems, and I think your best bet is to cut one at a time, take
a few steps back, and check whether you like the looks of it. (and
then either continue cutting or not) Hope this helps, Maren, Hilo,
HI, zone 11
- talauma hodgsonii - george in bandon, oregon 22:38:46
9/23/99 (4)
does anybody know of a mail-order sorce for talauma hodgsonii and
exbucklandia populnea that will ship for a reasonable fee to the west
coast?
- Re: talauma hodgsonii - elsie page 22:33:27
3/28/00 (0)
I have been in touch with Pacific Tree for about four years and
they say they are getting it but so far no luck. Any other source
for this tree or bud wood to graft on magnolia root stock.
- Re: talauma hodgsonii - Robert Lee Riffle 13:45:48
9/24/99 (2)
George, Pacific Tree farms lists it:
http://www.kyburg.com/ptf/Default.htm PACIFIC TREE FARMS
- Re: talauma hodgsonii - george in bandon, oregon
19:25:43 9/24/99 (1)
thanks for your response--however, even though the plant is
listed in their catalog--they do not really have the plant
available--they have been unsuccessful with trying to layer
from their one mother plant. have you or anyone else had any
experience growing it???? i am interested in growing plants
from temperate and subtropical parts of the sino-himalaya in
my zone 8-b/9-a garden any suggestions for other plants???
thanks.
- Palms for the Georgia Coast - Rick 21:48:00
9/23/99 (2)
What are the best palms to grow in Brunswick, GA. We are located
between Savannah and Jacksonville,FL. I know the basic cabbage palm
and Butia, but what are some more exotic palms that are marginally
hardy here, zone 8b-9a.
- Re: Palms for the Georgia Coast - Simon Freyou
08:25:34 11/27/99 (0)
I would go with: Sabal (minor and palmetto) Rhapidophyllum
hystrix Chamaerops humilis Trachycarpus Butia capitata Phoenix
canariensis Washingtonia filifera Cycas revoluta (cycad)
- Re: Palms for the Georgia Coast - Don Coleman
15:57:36 9/25/99 (0)
Rick, If you want to see what you can grow visit the SE Palm &
Exotic Plant Society (SPEPS) website. On the photo page are many
of the palms that can be grown in your area. Also check out the
BAMBOO FARM page. SPEPS has planted many palms at the Bamboo Farm
in Savannah which used to be a USDA introduction and testing
station. We have quite a few members , unfortunately not many on
the coast! Hope this helps, Donald Coleman Waynesboro, GA zone8
- sago palm seeds - terry edwards 16:04:14 9/22/99
(1)
what would be the proper way to plant some sago palm seeds? i live
in a coastal texas climate and have between 500-600 seeds that are not
dried out yet!
- Tibouchina or Tabebuia - John Ingram 22:49:04
9/21/99 (1)
Can anyone help me? I'm trying to name a LARGE tree is saw last year
in southern Brazil. The tree was a mass of flowers ranging in color
from almost white to lavender to purple. I only saw the tree from a
distance and usually while mobile, but, the flowers were quite large
resembling a Brunfelsia maybe 4-6" across each. The tree towered
over the vegetation and appeared to be ligtly foliated, like they are
semi-decidous. The tour guide gave me the name but I can not find my
notes where I wrote it down. I believe she said Tabebuia but I can't
remember the species. Anyone have any idea? I would like to try this
plant in So. Cal. but I need to be able to locate seed or plants and
it helps to have a name. Thanks for any leads.
- Re: Tibouchina or Tabebuia - Robert Lee riffle
13:46:48 9/22/99 (0)
John, sounds much more like Tibouchina than it does a
Tabebuia--although there are some white- flowered tabs. both
genera are native to Brazil, but Tibouchina is almost endemic
there .... Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- Glory Bower Plants - Alvin Anderson 17:49:15
9/21/99 (2)
Can anyone tell me where I could buy Clerodendrum thomsoniae plants?
They seem quite hard to find.
- Re: Glory Bower Plants - Albert Huntington 22:25:42
10/05/99 (0)
You might try Glasshouse Works. http://www.glasshouseworks.com/
They are offering a variegated form. I got my plant from Logees
Greenhouses, but you have to request their catalog. They _do_ have
two other clerodendrums online at http://logees.com/ You will find
a picture of my plant on my greenhouse website at:
http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Jungle/1436/ Hope this helps.
--Albert
- Re: Glory Bower Plants - george in bandon, oregon
19:30:46 9/24/99 (0)
Lousiana nursery has offered it previously--you might want to
contact them.
- Breadfruit Plants - Alvin Anderson 17:37:39
9/21/99 (3)
Can anyone tell me where I could order breadfruit plants?
- Re: Breadfruit Plants - Robert Lee Riffle 13:49:10
9/22/99 (1)
Alvin, as Gary pointed out, the breadfruit is extremely cold
sensitive. There's no way it will like ANY season of southern
CA--it's impossible to grow well in the warmest parts of Miami,
and is only marginally successful in Key West!
- Re: Breadfruit Plants - Gary 17:53:26
9/21/99 (0)
Frankie`s Nursery on Oahu has them. They`re not on the web, but
you can call them at(808)259-8737. They are very cold sensitive!
They become very unhappy under 60 degrees even for short periods
of time. Good luck!
- plumeria - Irene Jones 01:11:31 9/15/99 (6)
I have a friend who's interested in moving his plumeria inside over
the winter months in the hope that it won't lose its leaves. Has
anyone tried this? Will a plumeria hold its leaves if kept indoors
near a good light source? Thanks!
- Re: plumeria - Cyndy 13:04:57 1/14/00 (1)
When I lived in Hawaii, I sent seeds from my Plumeria tree to my
Dad. Having a great green thumb, and lots of patience (as it takes
forever by growing it from seed), 2 grew to maturity, and he gave
them to me. I live in Pennsylvania now, zone 6 and have had them
for 25 years. I put them out in the Spring when nights have become
steadily warmer. I water them with plant food with the highest
middle number, as recommended by the folks at Koolau Farmers in
Kaneohe, Hawaii. The leaves become full and lush. In early Fall, I
bring them in. They have grown into rather big trees over the
years, so I can't take them upstairs where it is the sunniest, so
they stay downstairs where it's darker but warmer. They do loose
some leaves, but this is normal. I water them sparingly over the
winter, and in early Spring I start fertilizing them again. This
helps to insure blooms. Unfortunately, in zone 6, our growing
season is shorter than more southern locations, but my most mature
trees bloom all Summer. You don't have to transplant Plumerias
very often. Hang in there, trust me, when they bloom, it will be
well worth the wait. Good luck!
- Re: plumeria - Jim K. 13:35:26 9/20/99 (0)
I've been growing plumerias for about 4 years and have to move
them inside in the winter because of where I live. They will lose
all their leaves no matter what you do. It's just part of their
cycle. In fact, during the winter months they really don't need
any care at all; maybe a drink once a month, but that's it until
spring. Make sure the plants are moved inside if the temp. is
expected to drop into the mid to upper 30's. I nearly killed one a
few years ago from a light overnight frost in October.
- Re: plumeria - Jim 18:46:50 9/16/99 (2)
Hi Irene, I have several small Frangipani at my home and take
care of several large ones at work. They all lose their leaves
during the winter here in so. Fl. They are beautiful in bloom and
with leaves. Jim
- Re: plumeria - John Ingram 14:24:17
9/17/99 (1)
No matter where they are located, they will loose their
leaves. Even in Hawaii they are deciduous. Moving it indoors
(unless you are not in a place where it would be hardy) would
not help any. Actually, it can cause a set back in it's
growth. Have your friend leave it where it is.
- Re: plumeria - Daryl 03:59:22 9/25/99
(0)
The only commonly grown plumeria that doesn't lose it's
leaves is Plumeria obtusa. In my opinion, the best
plumeria with glossy green leaves and large predominantly
white flowers with the strongest fragrance. If winter
temperatures are warm enough, the stay evergreen, however
if subjected to cold temperatures they shed their leaves
like regular plumerias.
- Bananas have split their pots! Common? Preventable? - Dale
Rose 23:54:30 9/13/99 (1)
One of my two banana trees has suddenly split its terracotta pot
into two pieces...while it's held together nicely at the moment with
giant tie straps ('till it cools down, anyway) I'd like to know if
this is common for bananas and other tropicals to split their
pots...if so, is there a way to prevent it? Or an ideal pot size that
will accommodate them comfortably? The bananas in question are about
8-10' tall now, growing in pots that are roughly 2' cubes.
- Re: Bananas have split their pots! Common? Preventable? -
Dave Poole 20:23:27 9/14/99 (0)
Although it is possible to keep the roots constricted, most of
the larger growing bananas do better in really big pots since the
rhizome can exert a lot of pressure on the pot sides. 2ft cubes
are just barely big enough for the smaller growing species such as
velutina, coccinea and ornata. The larger forms are best given 30"
or bigger containers. These are big plants requiring lots of root
room in order to reach their full potential.
- fragipani (plumeria?) and lichi - jack 23:24:04
9/12/99 (4)
I've recently bought a fragipani tree and planted it in a relatively
sunny spot. Do they like sun? Also, is the fragipani also referred to
as a "plumeria"? Also, I've planted quite a number of lichi
trees from seed, which produce an incredible-tasting fruit if you've
never had them. Will I have to manually cross-polinate? Anybody know
if bees will like lichis at all? They're just shoots now, but I want
to do everything well from the start since they're not exaxctly native
to Southern California, though I do have a redwood tree which seems to
be doing OK...
- Re: fragipani (plumeria?) and lichi - sergio 12:39:39
3/26/00 (0)
I have many lichi seeds but I am having problemas at making them
develop. How did you manage to do it?
- Re: fragipani (plumeria?) and lichi - Gary 17:46:13
9/21/99 (1)
Fragipani and plumaria are one in the same. Your lichi seedlings
should survive here in S. CA, However flowering and fruiting are a
whole different story. Your seedlings could take 15 years or more
to fruit even under ideal conditions. That`s why its always better
to buy a grafted cultivar like "brewster". You`ll not
only have a chance of earlier fruiting but you`ll also be sure the
fruit will be good. You never know with seedlings. Lichi trees are
from southern China which has warm wet summers and cool dry
winters, the opposite of S. CA. This is why its so hard to get
fruit here. Plant in acid soil, keep it well watered and
fertilized (acid) during the growing months and give it lots of
summer showers with your hose and who knows? Good Luck!
- thanks! - jack 18:14:48 9/23/99 (0)
thanks a lot!
- Propagating Plunerias - Jack 12:30:10 9/12/99
(1)
Is it true you need to dry out the cuttings from a plumeria tree
before planting it? If yes, how long do you dry it?
- Replanting Banana Suckers - Dave baldyga 21:19:28
9/11/99 (1)
How do you cut off and replant banana suckers. ie dwarf Cavendis
- Re: Replanting Banana Suckers - Mike z9a on Texas
Gulf Coast 23:40:33 9/11/99 (0)
Hi Dave,
I would use a sharpshooter type shovel and seperate the offshoot
from the parent when the sucker is at least 1/2 as tall as the
mature shoots. Cut straight down so as to make the cut as clean as
possible and be careful to include some roots on the new plant.
If
you cut them too early, they will be slow to establish.
Plant
with good soil around the new cutting and fertilize and water
regularly. In no time you will have a new clump.
: How do you cut off and replant banana suckers.
- Japanese? Banana Palms - Jordan 20:33:20 9/08/99
(6)
A fellow from B.C. once told me about something called Japanese
Banana Palms ( I think). Apparently they will survive to -10 Farenheit
and are hard to kill. Anyone know anything about these? Where could I
get seeds?
- Re: Look up Tropic to Tropic plants in Delta, BC - Rob
Wagner 10:48:24 9/18/99 (2)
The proprietor of Tropic to Tropic propagates Musa basjoo, the
so-called "Japanese Textile Banana", tho it is not a
native of Japan but China. Seeds may be hard to come by but small
starts are not. It can be had in both Canada and the USA, as well
as in Europe. It is cultivated on the Ryuku (Liu Chiu) Islands for
both its small seedy bananas, and for the fiber, which is
harvested and woven to make fine kimonos. It is also cultivated in
its native China as far north as Gansu! (first province due south
of the Gobi desert, and extremely poor inland province). It grows
beautifully even as far north as Vancouver. My property in Seattle
is really too shady for it but it does remarkably well anyway; it
is surprisingly adaptable.
- Re: Japanese? Banana Palms - Robert Lee Riffle
00:14:12 9/09/99 (2)
It's probably Musa basjoo, the Japanese fiber bamboo. As with
ALL bananas, the leaves will be damaged and die off with any temps
much below freezing but with this one the root (corm) will survive
temps at or even below 0'F., especially if mulched. Robert Lee
Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
- Re: Japanese? Banana Palms - Dave Poole 03:01:47
9/12/99 (1)
I don't know about in the US but seed of Musa basjoo is
often very difficult to get hold of and most plants are either
micro-propped or grown from divisions. To date M. basjoo is
considered to be the hardiest, not only tolerating
temperatures down to minus 16C (although at these tmeperatures
all top growth is killed), but also revelling in comparatively
cool summer heat where the ideal range is from 22C - 30C. Much
above this and growth slows down. Another Musa from the
eastern Himalayas may be about to take the crown in terms of
hardiness - M. hookeri, which according to some reports,
regularly withstands bitter conditions and grows bigger faster
producing almost passably edible fruit. It is more colourful
in leaf too. Quite a few of us in the UK and US are growing
this for the first time, so it will be a few years before we
can prove or disprove any claims.
- lipstick/sealing wax palms - peggy ross 15:12:33
9/08/99 (2)
Need info on growing these palms in the US Don't know if we have a
shipping shock problem or these Palms do not grow well here. We have
them in a green house and we live in South Florida - so we have a
tropical surroundings thank you
- Re: lipstick/sealing wax palms - Paul Leitkowski
08:45:05 10/15/99 (0)
Peggy: I live in S.Fla. and was very interested in this
beautiful palm. What scared me away from it was I was told that
you could lose it with one quick cold snap. If you were to keep it
in a pot, you could always bring it in, but I had a perfect place
for it to be planted outside. I've since went with a Chamberyronia
Maccocarpa so as to get some red color.
- Re: lipstick/sealing wax palms - Robert Lee Riffle
16:43:32 9/08/99 (0)
Peggy, the palm needs strong light (to keep the color of the
crownshaft), a rich humusy soil AND WATER; FTG has one (or did
this spring) in a conatiner in the pond near the front gate. You
can't overwater the thing! Robert Lee riffle, author of the
award-winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
- sago palms with scale bugs - Jackie 19:34:48
9/07/99 (1)
I have 2 large and beautiful sago palms in yard in south florida,
that have fallen victim to a local outbreak of scale bugs. Should I
try to have them sprayed to cure problem or is it just to likely to
return. What is best remedy. Your help is appreciated. Thanks
- Re: sago palms with scale bugs - Mike Burnett
09:13:10 9/09/99 (0)Jackie,
The cycad aulacaspis scale, Aulacaspis yasumatsui Takagi, has
spread throughout a large area of southern Miami,
attacking
cycads grown as ornamental plants. The species was originally
described on cycads in Southeast Asia
(Takagi 1977) and was
probably accidentally introduced into Florida. So far, the cycad
aulacaspis scale has been
observed only on plants of the cycad
family (Cycadaceae).
You can find out about your scale problem at this University of
Florida link.
Mike Burnett
A Gulf Coast Garden
- tree ferns - Ian Gardiner 22:25:33 8/29/99 (2)
I have a tree fern that I want to transplant, the trunk is 2 metres
high and well established. Is it easy to transplant and how do I go
about it! Thanks.
- Re: tree ferns - Ian Barclay 13:18:46 9/02/99
(0)
The most common treeferns in cultivation are either Dicksonia or
Cyathea. It would be a good idea for you to find out which is
which. Dicksonias can survive with most of their roots cut off;
Cyatheas, on the other hand, need to be transplanted with a rather
large root ball. I would trim off alot (perhaps all) of the fronds
to make up for the root loss. They will need a huge amount of
water for seeral months after the transplanting operation.
- Re: tree ferns - Roy Lent 19:43:02 9/01/99
(0)
Most tree ferns transplant easily. Is this a species that has a
good mass of roots around the base or not? With a nice mass of
roots around the base it shouldn't be hard. I've seen them in the
wild kicked over and uprooted, growing on, bending up and rooting
along its side. Give plenty of water as they are almost impossible
to rot with too much water unless you put them underwater! Roy
Lent
- sago palm - Joseph Patota 12:17:13 8/28/99 (1)
I have a sago palm in my home, and recently in the last 3 months it
has sprouted 3 extremly long prongs from the center which have grown
to almost 3 times the size of the rest of the plant. I cut them off
because they started to turn yellow. Now the plant is starting to
sprout new prongs again, is this normal and what should i do when they
are fully sprouted? thank you Joseph Patota
- Trachycarpus cold tolerance - Nick Macer 16:16:14
8/25/99 (3)
I'd be very keen to here of any actual minimum temps. that
Trachycarpus fortunei has survived, and for what period the cold
lasted. Here in England we regard them as hardy to about -15 degrees
celsius when mature. Also, any min temps. for Musa basjoo?
- Re: Trachycarpus cold tolerance - Nick Nicosia Rumsey
Island Md. 06:31:41 9/06/99 (0)
Here in England we regard them as hardy to about -15 degrees
celsius when mature. Also, any min temps. for Musa basjoo? Musa
Basjoo: I was told to slide a length of plastic plumbing pipe over
the trunk,after the leaves have died and fill the pipe with dry
leaves
- Re: Trachycarpus cold tolerance - Dave Poole 15:24:42
8/27/99 (0)
Trachycarpus fortunei is likely to survive any amount of cold
that winters in the UK are likely throw at us. Certainly it is
hardy here to minus 12C without showing any signs of frost damage
and is reputedly hardy down to around minus 15C. They do suffer
from cold winds however and unless in a sheltered spot, the leaves
can become badly damaged. A slightly less hardy, but better option
is the smaller leaved, but delightful T. wagnerianus, it seems to
withstand cold winds with far less resultant damage. Musa basjoo
is hardy down to minus 10C although unless protected, the
pseudo-trunk will be killed back at these temperatures. However,
the rhizome is remarkably tough and persistent, sending up new
shoots as soon as warmer weather arrives. Ideally you should try
to protect the 'trunk' by loosely wrapping it in several layers of
hessian and then an outer envelope of bubble wrap. The leaves
will be killed in most winters, but can be lossely folder over the
growing point and tied into place in order to prvent winter wet
penetrating down into the hessian. Once danger of frosts have
passed, remove the insulation, cut away the old, dead leaves and
new grow should start to reappear from the top of the 'trunk'.
This way, the plant will continue to grow, and make a very
tall,impressive specimen. In the UK, flowering only occurs where
the 'trunk' is retained since the growth needs about 18 months to
mature. Fruits by the way are hard, fibrous and inedible.
- Re: Trachycarpus cold tolerance - Chris 18:21:49
8/26/99 (0)
T. fortunei has survived to -10 F here in Albuquerque, NM.
Temperatures here only get that cold once every 20 years or so,
and normally only at most 10 nights go below 20 in the average
winter (except for parts of the city in the Rio Grande valley-
which are typically more than 10 degees colder than the rest of
the city). Sometimes they do show frost damage. They consistently
show no damage between 5 and 10 degrees, even if the daytime temp
doesn't get above freezing. Overall a very hardy palm , the only
palm with a trunk we can consistently grow here (except the more
hardy takil- so far unavailable to the majority of people). Good
Luck! Chris/ 7b
- yellowing sago - Kristi 20:38:37 8/23/99 (1)
I've scanned all the previous questions about yellowing sago palms.
Is the general consensus that the yellowing is due to overwatering or
is it a heat problem? I live just north of Dallas in Plano and don't
want to lose these beauties!!
- separating banana trees - Imogene Glover 12:02:59
8/23/99 (1)
I have a 2 year old Banana tree that has a baby tree and would to
know how to separate these and also how to prune back these trees
before taking up for winter. I live in Arkansas so they will freeze if
left outside. Thanks Imogene Glover
- Re: separating banana trees - Roy Lent 21:59:36
8/23/99 (0)
A 2 year old banana plant (they're not really 'trees') in
Arkansas may not be very far along in size. In the wet tropics a 2
year old plant would have flowered, fruited and be only an
offshoot by now. If the rhizome of the offshoot is as big as 2
fists it probably will survive separation. It can be quite a bit
smaller with plenty of care but the bigger it is the better off
the new plant will be. If the leaves on the offshoot are very
narrow bladed don't separate. To cut it off just cut the narrow
neck between it & the mother rhizome. If the mother plant
shows absolutely no signs of flowering, lop it off just below the
lowest leaves. This will give a long psuedostem thus lots of
stored water & sugars, plus some preotection from rot. Store
in a dry place. Do not attempt to save any roots; just trim them
off. If you do remove the offshoot, pot it up and find a place it
can continue growing over the winter.
- Cordyline 'Black Witch' - Mike 01:34:24 8/20/99
(2)
I saw this amazing Cordyline called 'Black Witch' with long, wide
purple-black leaves--I'm not sure whether it was C. terminalis or C.
australis because it was highly unusual and I couldn't see the
trunk--but it was sure interesting! Does anyone know any more about
it, and perhaps a mailorder source? Thanks.
- Re: Cordyline 'Black Witch' - Esteban 21:09:10
8/21/99 (1)
Mike this name bounces around...and changes from deealer to
deasler,but if you are referring to C.terminalis that has leaves
up to 60cm X 10-15 cm and is the color of dried blood....or a very
dark burgandy.....we have it in our nursery.Of all the C.trminalis
it is the quickest to revert to the expected color. Esteban
- Sago Palm - Debbie 17:13:37 8/18/99 (2)
I've gotten two Sago Palms from a friend and they are about two and
three feet high. They were knocked dowm and broken off at the base
next to the ground. If I plant them about one inch into the ground
will they come back? Both palms have young leaves on them and have
been out of the ground for at least three to four days. Will that
matter or are the palms history?
- Re: Sago Palm - Jim 18:40:36 8/18/99 (1)
Hi Debbie, I have tried several methods. The one that works best
for me in southern Fl. is cut all leaves off right down to the
trunk or stem. place the trunk about 4" into the ground (or
pot) and water in well to remove air pockets. Shade is best, some
sun may be ok, full sun is bad. I've had some sagos take two years
to leaf-out. Incidently, every one that I watered after the
initial watering, rotted away, so do not water. If the leaves are
left on they will be using up the stems reserves. With no roots to
resupply the stem, it gives its reserves to the leaves then dies
(collapses). Also had better luck putting the stems in potting
soil than in the ground (sand). Hope this helps, good luck with
them, Jim
- solo papaya pollinating - Stephen 21:59:59
8/17/99 (7)
Hello all!! I have a 3 yr old solo papaya, about 15-20 ft tall
growing in my garden in uptown New Orleans. My question to all you
knowledgable tropical plant lovers is, do you have to have a male &
female for fruit production? I have seen several in the city loaded
with fruit. But I haven't seen anyone up on a ladder with a paintbrush
pollinating the flowers ( which is my next step) Ideas or comments,
anyone?
- Re: solo papaya pollinating - steve 19:33:54
11/04/99 (0)
well, I wrote this letter a couple of months ago, & it would
seem that patience is indeed a virtue. I've decided that it was my
window unit scareing the pollinating insects away. As soon as the
weather cooled & the unit was no longer running, fruit just
wouldn't stop appearing!! It now has about 10-15 fruit set, with
more flowers setting fruit every week. I can now reach out the
window to pick them, as the A?C has been stored for the season.
Even if they don't taste as good as the male/female fruits, it
will be fun to try !! thanks all!!
- Re: solo papaya pollinating - Andy 20:19:47
8/19/99 (0)
15 - 20 ft??? Seems a bit high for a Solo variety... Most
literature say they are about 8 - 9 ft tall and produce at 9
months on with good fruit until about 3 years at which the fruit
will become of lesser quality.... Like Bill suggested: Maybe you
don't have a Solo variety. I guess this would explain why there is
no fruit? Andy Florida
- Re: solo papaya pollinating - Bill...South Texas
23:43:09 8/18/99 (0)
I have a solo papaya about the same age and size as yours. It
produces madly, although the fruit is not as good as that on the
female needing male pollination. My guess is that you don't have a
solo. Several years ago, I bought several "solos"...only
one of which lived, and it never produced anything.
- trees and flowers - pat mcelyea 19:50:02
7/13/99 (5)
i live in humtsville alabama. i am look for chinaberry trees neem
mulberry trees i went through calfornia and saw some trees with blue
flowers on them can anyone tell me what they are and can you grow them
here
- Re: trees and flowers - Esteban 06:35:35
7/14/99 (0)
Howdy Rocket M.....we have Neem(Azadirachta indica) trees
available.They should not be subjected to less than freezing
temperatures,but probably some one from your Latitude can tell you
their experience. I do know this about A. indica......seems like
my kids were on a planting spree and they planted a tree within 2
feet of where the garbage accumultes(Bags ,of course).Well here in
Puerto Rico,being tropical ,there were always flys and their larva
around the collection area......After planting the Neem ,6 monthes
later there were no insects in this area......Like
none....ninguno!I have read much literature about Neem....but this
experience really convinced me. As you mentioned blue flowering
trees .....Is is possible that they were similiar to
Flamboyan(Delonix regia)?If so that could be Jacaranda
mimosifolia.It is so difficult to taxon anything from flower
description alone,but I do know that Jacaranda does grow in some
areas of California E-mail me if you are interested in any of the
above or other tropicals. Saludos, Esteban
- Re: trees and flowers - Irene Jones 00:59:32
7/14/99 (2)
I live near San Diego, California. The tree with the blue
flowers is most likely a jacaranda. It's currently in bloom. Neem
trees can be purchased locally through a nursery called Exotica in
Vista, California
- Re: Jacaranda mimosifolia - Chris/ Albuquerque 7b
13:31:43 7/16/99 (1)
I bet it was Jacaranda also. They are hardy to the mid 20's,
but severly damaged or killed below about 20. They grow above
zone 9 only, as far as I have seen: central and south Florida,
south Texas, southern Arizona (Phoenix & Tucson), and low
elevation areas of California, away from the colder parts of
the Mojave desert, and also they grow along coastal areas of
California. They are evergreen in Phoenix until late February
to early March, and then they lose most of their leaves, and
produce flowers, some stay green through flowering. After
flowering they leaf out again fairly quickly. They may also
survive in very coastal Gulf locations (ie New Orleans,
Mobile, etc) but I don't recall ever having seen them there.
If you get into low 20's or lower every winter, it might not
be a good choice for your area. Good Luck! Chris.
