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I live in San Diego. My question is: Should the old bark be peeled away from the trunks of my Queen Palms as the tree grows? Peeling away the old bark leaves a very nice appearance, but I don't know if it is healthy. Thanks
Pull off only the old dead leafbases, the large, triangular remains of old leaves. Do not cut or pull off any other parts.
I have a Royal Poinciana tree which did not bloom this year. But it has lush new foliage and the branches have grown 2 feet longer this spring. I have kept it well fertilized and watered. What do I do to insure that it will bloom next year?
Do not fertilize or irrigate in late winter or spring.
I am looking for information on growing bananas that have edible friut in newjersey , is there a variety out there that i can put out in the summer and bring in during the winter or is there a way to store them dormant in my basement until the following spring. I tried dwraf cavindish which did very well during the summer but died shortly after being brought in doors. Any info would be appreaciated thankyou ERIC
I used to live in Yonkers, NY, and now live in San Francisco. I successfully got a dwarf cavendish to fruit back there. It took some experimentation to figure the key is to keep the plant warm and provide as large a container as you can and as much sun as you can. The sun part is critical during the colder months when the plant needs to be kept indoors. Bananas slow down considerably if the night temps dip into the 50's. The plant needs to be kept in a south facing window especially during the meek winter light of Nov to Feb. Dwarf cavendishes are quite big for an indoor plant. I'm using a 16" clay pot for the one I have now and I should move it into a larger pot. If you don't have big south facing windows, or the indoor space, try a super dwarf cavendish. If you want to know more, go to http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/banana.html
Try Dwarf Orinoco. Its quite hardy. You'll find it at ...www.stokestropicals.com Jeff Earl modesto, Ca
There are several of these beautiful trees near my house and the flowers are all over the ground but I dont seem able to locate the seeds.Does anyone know where they are and how they look like?i want to save the seeds for a friend.thanks.
hey nesa, tabebuia's flower (in spring in Los Angeles) and if some of the flowers were pollinated they form long fuzzy seed pods like pea pods right where the flowers were, which should be left on the branch to develop if you want the seeds or remove the pods if you want the leaves to grow faster...I have 3 ten foot high, small umbrella yellow tabebuias in containers, and would like to trade seeds with the pink one as I have yet to find a pink one around here.... let me know if seeds develop...
You're on.But I have to see first if I can get seeds.What do they look like, are they brown?
the yellow tabebuia produces a light to medium brown, velvety fuzzy, 6"-10" or maybe longer seed pod (resembling a pea pod). Wait till the pods grow long and fatten up as if they had small peas or lima beans inside, then the seeds should be developed and ready for planting. They are produced just after flowering, just as the leaves begin to grow, right where the leaves are sprouting out of the branch, it will probably take a month or two for pods to develop...
While at Leu Gardens in Orlando FL this weekend, I saw what appeared to be a species of Tibouchina different from the two usual types available at most nurseries. Its unique characteristic was the very large leaves, much wider, more round and blunt than the usual types, and a spike of purple flowers. Each individual flower was smaller than those of the usual common types. I have searched the net and have come up with not leads. I must clarify that I am assuming it is a Tibouchina sp. based on appearance. If it is not a Tibouchina, it almost certainly is some member of Melastomaceae. For anyone familiar with Leu Gardens, it was located where the walk along the fence covered with various flowering vines makes the transition into the flowering tree garden. Any help with ID and nurseries that offer this plant would be greatly appreciated. I must have this plant! Thanks!
Been a while since I was at Leu (maybe Eric Schmidt will see this and respond) but your description rather sounds like it's T. grandifolia.
Yes! That is it! In my search on the web for possibilities, I was confusing T. grandiFLORA with grandiFOLIA. Now all I need is a source for this plant. Thanks! Susan
Can anyone give me guidance on growing Jacarandas from seed? I've tried several times and have failed. I've tried planted fresh seeds, seeds a year old, seeds that have been refrigerated. I've tried presprouting them on paper towels. The only thing I haven't tried is using Gabrillic Acid. Anyone have any suggestions? What am I doing wrong? Please respond to me directly through email (CherrylM@AOL.com) THANKS!
hey cherryl, in Los Angeles both sprout easily right out of the ground, planted 1/4" deep, the tropical palm germinating experts recommend placing the medium over a light bulb or on top of a wall furnace for added heat, short of a more elaborate setup, try adding a little warmth to the soil....
I just purchased a white bird of paradise which I mistakenly overwatered the first few days I had it. As a result, a few of the leaves have turned brown/yellow. Should I remove these? If so, what is the best way to do this and at what point of the stalk should I remove it? Note: This is my first attempt at plant care. :)
hey chris, basically I cut out the cancer, meaning remove brown parts or segments leaving a small brown margin on the leaf or you might be enviting some bacterial disease, saving as much of the green parts for photosynthesis, this is debatable, that is a general rule with delicate tropicals. Birds of paradise are very hardy and you can hack off the whole segment, leaving a few inches from the base for asthetics if you want... my experience is that two and a half leaves grow faster than just two.....
Help, I don't know what to do. I re-potted my Christmas Cactus about a month ago and it was doing so well and growing like a weed. Just recently, I don't know if I watered it too much or had been putting fertilizer in each week but now the leaves are just dropping off, any slightest touch will make them fall. At the base it seems a little darker than usual. Does anyone know what I did wrong to make this happen? I don't want this to happen again so I'm asking for help. Thanks
Linda, Several years ago, I transplanted a Christmas Cactus, the leaves began to fall off, and it eventually died. I never tried growing another but I wonder about the soil I used. Christmas cacti like two parts soil/peat moss to one part sand/vermiculite. I don't believe I created a well-drained soil that the plant desires. Also, I'm not sure where you live, but it prefers high light but in a relatively cool environment (temps around 60-65 degrees). It also prefers high humidity and a moist (not wet) soil. As much as I know of them, they can withstand regular feeding during the summer months so I don't believe you over-fertilized. Hope that helps and good luck. - P.J._in_MD
Hey all. we just got a purple Bismarkia but I haven't been able to find any info on it anywhere. Firstly, is it a different species from the nobilis or just a cultivar? I'm assuming it's a cultivar since everything I read says Bismarkia is monotypic. Also, same cultural conditions as the nobilis, and same spread etc? Any info would be great. Thanks! -Bruce
Hi Bruce, I'm willing to wager a guess that your purple Bismarckia is young? I know the color you're referring to. It's quite remarkable. If the blue leaves of the adults were any less remarkable, I would say that it's a shame they lose the purple cast. The picture below is one I took at the Montgomery Botanical Center in Florida. Bismarckias are incredibly beautiful palms. I hope you live in a warm enough climate to see them reach maturity!
You're right, it's young and in a 15g can. Im' bummed! Not that I don't like the mature color but I was really excited about a huge purple leaved palm. Thanks for your help!
hey bruce, that is the standard color of a young bismarkia nobilis, reddish purple, I have hundreds of rare tropical palms growing well in los angeles(half indoors), but my bismarkia which is in a ten gallon pot, grows alot slower than even a licuala grandis, which puts out a basketball size leaf every 3-4 months or so(indoors), but the bismarkia in the past maybe puts out a basketball size leaf a year, and the last six months the spike seemed to grow a wopping 1/4 inch, I wonder how fast yours is growing or anybody's else's?, mine is outdoors now, but the first year grew a large leaf outdoors and has stunted for some reason, ralph veliz has a monster the size of a vw bus growing outdoors 30 miles south of Los angeles, but mine is slooooow, I have never got any feedback on how fast juveniles grow in the states, I wonder if I should move it back inside now or let it try to acclimate this summer? I have lost a few tropical palms raised indoors for 3-4 years, moved outdoors only to stunt, moved back indoors to 90 degree days and 80 degree nights to see them die immediately, I guess from back and forth shock? It has two leaves with brown tips slightly smaller than a basketball and a 5 inch spike languishing, not yet rootbound in a ten gallon pot with good drainage, getting watered heavily every four days and foilage misted a few times a day, it has been getting into the low 60's at night, and mid eighties during the day here in LA, any advice would be greatly appreciated...
Hi Bart, I planted a 12" Bismarckia in the ground and in a year and a half it only grew 12". Then the next year and a half, it grew 60". Total growth from sprouting in 3years, 3 months; 84". Bismarckia sprouts left in pots in 5 years are just now approaching 60" in height. Seeds were sprouted in 3 gal pots, potted up to 10 gal pots when about 18"-24" tall. I have noticed a marked halting of growth if the roots are cut or damaged when potting up to a bigger pot. Also, if the roots grow out thru the pot drainage holes into the ground and then get broken off when moving a pot, the plant may suffer a long halt to growing. Possibly even a decline and stunted leaves for a while (6 months?). Here in south Florida, I noticed almost all of the growth in Bismarckia palms occurs from May to Nov. with little or no growth the remainer of the year. I measured the growth rate of many of my palms monthly for about 7 years. Plotted out, the growth curve looks like stair steps. In 6 months the growth rate is great, then for 6 months, nothing. Best, Jim Naples, Fl.
Hey jim, thanks for the feedback, I imagine your low temps in florida might be higher than here in southern california, here it dropped down to the low 40's 10-15 times this past winter, I imagine that accounts for the stunting, the spike has grown an inch in the past few weeks here at the end of june, i am very meticulous about the roots on all plants and they did not suffer damage of that nature, I have a handful of tropical palms that act erratic, here in the end of june most seem finally to be pushing spikes. An hyphorbe vershaffelti, 6' high, softball size trunk, went almost a year without a new spike only to finally start pushing a spike about 5" a day, can't figure, the only one still languishing at the moment is a roystonia regia in a fifteen gallon pot, only one leaf about 14' tall, 3" dia trunk, again not a new spike for about a year and a half I hate to say, but is very green with green leaf tips, probably languishing from the few 40 degree nights. I guess i'm very spoiled, using my living room as a lab, 90 deg days and 80 deg nites year round, things explode in growth, but probably go a bit deeper in shock when they are relagated to the great outdoors, compared to most peoples transitional setups. I'm jealous of your bismarkia growth rate, at my current pace it may take 10 years to get 60" tall, in pots anyway, unfortunately my thousand rainforest plants are all in pots due to the fact i'm still in an apartment, about 250 in my living room and bedroom and the latter in a 10x15 chain link fenced area, stuffed to the brim, one gallons on top of 5 and tens on top of 15's, under a chorisia, bauhania, tabebuia and fern canopy, with vines all over and #$@$#%@. It's great to talk to people who share the same interest, as around here people think I have completely lost it...thanks again...
I planted two pineapples approximately 3 years ago in my backyard
(Central Florida) and they are growing well. But I have yet to see any
fruit.... Is there something I should be doing to get fruit?? Someone
told me I need to grow a male and female pineapple next to each other
in order to get fruit. Thought this sounded strange. How do I
distinguish a male from a female pineapple. Please HELP!
I just bought two maui ixora plants in containers. Can you tell me what is the best way to care/feed for them and if they do better in containers or in the ground? Sun or shade? I live in a very hot and dry area of southwest Texas.
Has anyone ever heard of either a Black Palm or a Black Jade? I was
given this plant about a year ago, the guy gave it to me called it a
Black Palm. I have never been able to find any information on it at
all. Recently I was at a nursery in So. California and I saw one and
asked what they called it and they said it was a Black Jade. It has a
trunk very similar to a Pulmeria but has no flowers like a Pulmeria.
Instead it has big (about 3 to 6") black flower shaped clusters.
I have looked everywhere for any kind of information on this and have
not been able to do so. If anyone has any information it would greatly
be appreciated
Hello Walt
The black palm is from Aussie drop me a line and
I'll let you know more regards Mike
I recently got a Pygmy Date Palm, and it has some very well developed suckers on it finally. I wish to divide it, but before, I pulled the new growths out of the dirt, and planted them in new dirt. They still don't seem to be doing well, though I kept them in shade and took off all the fronds. But my question is, do I:
A.) cut them apart, like, take a knife and just cut their roots down the center? or pull them apart?
B.) Should I keep them in their original soil? Is the shock of being put in totally new soil too traumatic for them?
I'm a little confused. . . HELP!! -Lindsey
I've heard that Pygmy DP's don't clump. . . I'm confused now, because this one gardening index says that they do. I don't doubt your word, though.
I've done everything you've said. I appreciate the advice, becaus every time I've divided pygmys, they all dry up and die. I thought that it was perhaps severe transplant shock. But this time, I've tried to keep as much of their original soil with their roots as possible.
How much should I water them? I've wondered if I have over watered some past palms that didn't make it.
The palms I separated were two who had a few new spears coming in. . . how long before the palm will start to grow again? What should I look for as a sign that it is ailing/surviving?
And lastly, What should I do if the fronds begin to dry up and get spindly? Someone said to cut off all the fronds when you transplant, but that seems to me that it would make it harder for the plant to survive. Any suggestions?
Your help so far has been absolutely wonderful. THANKS!!
Lindsey
Hi Lindsey,
Answer to your questions are....
1)
How much should I water? Water to keep plant moist but not
saturated and do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
2)How long until the palm starts growing again? That depends on the general health of your plant and your growing conditions. It might take a week or two or even longer before the plant starts to re-grow, if the root system wasn't damaged too much. I would never try to either transplant or divide a plant that is not healthy to begin with. Do not fertilize until new growth starts.
3) should I look for as a sign that it is ailing/surviving? If the palm looks bad and the leaves dry up or the new growth shrivels up, than I'd say your in trouble. If the plant just sits there and doesn't seem to grow, but the overall appearance hasn't changed, than I'd say you have a chance, just give it some time.
4) Someone said to cut off all the fronds when you transplant. You might want to remove some of the leaves but NOT All,(and never top it! The plant must first grow some new roots in order to start new growth. I have transplanted Phoenix with out any leaves only the growing tip without any problems. By removing some of the leaves you cut down on the (transpiration) the lose of water through the leaves.
I have a 16' or so ponytail palm that previous owner's planted
against the pool deck. I would like to move it if possible before it
does structural damage to the pool. It's a twin with the base now
about 3' x 5'. How big and deep can I expect the roots to be and how
big of a ball should I expect to keep?
: I have a 16' or so ponytail palm that previous owner's planted
against the pool deck. I would like to move it if possible before
it does structural damage to the pool. It's a twin with the base
now about 3' x 5'. How big and deep can I expect the roots to be
and how big of a ball should I expect to keep?
Hi Mike, I have
only transplanted a few pony-tails, the largest being about 10
feet tall. When dug out of the sand here in Florida, all the soil
falls off the roots. There are very few roots. After digging, I
laid the stem horizontal to the ground and rolled the nut (like a
wheel on an axle) to its new location. Water in thoroughly.
Haven't lost one yet. Best, Jim
i have just relocated to florida, and need help pruning my sago
palms. do i just cut the fronds on the bottom off, and if i do will
they regrow? i have been looking at how they are trimmed, but
obviously do not want to damage them. help, i have a brown thumb!
: i have just relocated to florida, and need help pruning my
sago palms. do i just cut the fronds on the bottom off, and if i
do will they regrow? i have been looking at how they are trimmed,
but obviously do not want to damage them. help, i have a brown
thumb!
Hi Kate,
Only remove the dead fronds. As long as
the leaves are green, they are supplying energy to the plant. The
more green leaves a plant has, the healthier it will be.
Sad
to say, but there are MANY ignorant professional lawn maint.
people and companies in Florida. It is a common and wide spread
practice to remove most fronds from Sago's and Palm's, leaving
only a little poof of fronds on the very top. I've often wondered
why they don't also prune pines, oaks, maples, cypress,mahogany's
and other trees the same way. Take almost all the leaves off, just
leave the topmost ones on.
Sorry to rant on so, but
ignorance and stupidity by supposedly professionals is
inexcuseable to me. Best, Jim
I know that you can divide Areca palms, Pygmy date palms, and Nanthea Bella palms, and you can also plant seeds (which take forever to germinate.) But can you take cuttings? If so, how do you do this, and under what conditions do they need to take root?
Very few palm species can be propagated by cuttings. A few small Chamaedorea species can be--C. elegans (Neanthe bella) can usually be done this way, but the plant FROM WHICH the top is cut will usually die--actually the procedure is usually to air layer it rather than rooting a cutting.
One of my botany books lists Dracaena as being a palm, but I have always thought of it as being a yucca like plant. It's not, is it?
By the way, how do you pronounce it? Anyone have a phonetic spelling?
Many thanks!
Marie
Marie--there are two main divisions of the flowering plants. Palms and dracaenas are in the same division (monocots) but are notin the same families. Dracaena are now in their own (depending on whose taxonomy oneaccepts) family (Dracaenaceae) while the palms are in Palmae or Arecaceae. The other main division of the flowering plants is the dicots which includes oaks, hibiscus rubber trees (Ficus), etc., etc. The dicots far outnumber the monocots in number of families and species, which include the immense daisy family (Compositae; but the monocots have the orchids (Orchidaceae) which have the greatest number of different species of all plant families. (Some taxonomists put Dracaena into the agave family, Agavaceae.) I suspect the botany book you saw was using a common name for the Dracaena genus which, because of the growth form, some people refer to as palms--they also do this to many species in the Yucca genus (which is put into Agavaceae by most botanists. "Dracaena" is pronounced "dra-SEE-na."
CRDB (The Cold-Rating Data Base) claims that Cycas revoluta 'rubra'
is hardy to -20F or zone 5a. Does anyone know if this information is
correct. Where is a source where these plants can be purchased?
Thank
you
Hi Allen,
Although there are about 40 to 50 species of
Cycas, I have never heard of Cycas r. 'rubra', and I seriously
doubt that if this is a (valid name), it has survived temperatures
to -20F. But if someone does know please let me know! Maybe Robert
Riffle can shed some light on the subject! BTW, I did see it
posted on Peter's CRDB.
Hallo,
I've spoken with the gardener who posted this
message on the CRDB and he told that the rating was correctly
to -8°C. There isn't a Cycas to Z 5a. Michael
Is there any palm species that is hardy to zone 7? I want that palm
tree effect on my patio and there is no room to nanny one through the
winter indoors. Any help appreciated! I will go to reasonable effort
to give winter protection. Thanks.
Try one of these:
Minimum USDA
Genera Species
Temperature Zone
Butia bonnettii 9°F (-12.8°C) 7b
Nannorrhops
ritchiana grey-green 7.1°F (-13.9°C) 7b
Rhapidophyllum
hystrix 5.5°F (-14.7°C) 7b
Sabal louisiana 6.1°F
(-14.4°C) 7b
Sabal minor 5.5°F (-14.7°C) 7b
Sabal minor(NE TX ecotype) -8°F (-22.2°C) 6a
Sabal
umbraculifera 8.5°F (-13.1°C) 7b
Sabal xtexensis
4.8°F (-15.1°C) 7a
Trachycarpus fortunei 9.1°F
(-12.8°C) 7b
Trachycarpus latisectus 1°F (-17.3°C)
7a
Trachycarpus nanus 7°F (-13.9°C) 7b
Trachycarpus
takil 5.3°F (-14.9°C) 7b
Trachycarpus wagnerianus
9.5°F (-12.5°C) 7b
I found them at CRDB
Also
check out http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/palmferndc/palms/index.html
www.thecooltropics.com
Some sources of the plants:
www.coldhardypalms.com (online
catalog)
www.exoticfruit.com (you must order and pay for their
catalog, but its worth it, very unusual)
www.netropic.com
(online catalog)
Good Luck
My husband and I live in Grand Prairie TX, just south of Dallas.
Approximately 8 weeks ago, we planted 3 Texas Windmill and 3 Robolini
palm trees around our swimming pool. We have these trees and a mixture
of other plants in a large bed with sand rather than mulch. We have 2
Robolini's that really look bad. They have few palms and the ones that
are in, have turned brown. Some people have told us they are in shock
and to use root stimulator, miracle grow and Consan/Confin on them. We
have done all of this and still the 2 trees look pitiful. Do you have
any suggestions or advice.
Hi Joe and Karen,
The problem might be the sand, although I
have seen a number of P. roebelenii growing in sand, I believe
that a certain amount of soil amendments were used to provide the
sand with some body, and the ability to hold water and nutrients.
The pygmy date palm likes lots of water and little extra nitrogen
to look thier best. Did you acclimate the palms before planting? I
would not fertilize until palms have stablized and show signs of
new growth.
I am located in Santa Barbara, about 4 miles inland (Sunset zone
23/24). I have a Ravenea Rivularis as a houseplant and it does well.
My garden is in full sun until 3PM, when full shade hits. I have 2 P.
Roebelenii doing well (although they yellowed a bit their first 6
months they are fine now), as well as hibiscus (whitefly not
withstanding) and bananas. I would like to clump together 3 Ravenea
Rivularis (or are they R. Glauca?). Since they are widely available
for only about 12 bucks as houseplants it is a fairly low risk
venture, but...
- What can I expect size-wise in 5 years? 10
years? Will they be 40 meter giants? How long before the trunk begins
to form?
- I have read that yellowing occurs in full sun
situations. What other migitating factors might there be regarding
yellowing? Is there some nutrient that I can use to prevent this - I
use Peter's on young plants 2-3X per year.
- I have never seen
Majestys for sale as landscaping plants. Any tips on sun-hardening one
bred as a houseplant?
Ravenea are true water lovers. In their native habitat they are only found at the edges of streams/lakes. They are also fast growers with water and good soil. As for the yellowing it won't occur (except maybe in hot tropical deserts) if the palm gets enough water and nutrients. A complete palm fertilizer with trace elements is best. Under optimal conditions a 5-gal palm should have a trunk of two to three feet in five years. In nature the things grow 60-ft. trunks and their crowns are well above any surrounding vegetation-- this means they can deal with full sun; but they can also look very good in partial shade, especially when young.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
. How deep (or invasive) are the roots on an older Oleander plant?
Do they spread out more toward the surface, or go down, or both? I'm
asking because I thinking of planting near a septic line.
Tony, in general oleander roots are more near the surface than, say a mimosa tree. However, as with all landscape subjects, root mass depends on a number of factors, the most important of which is rainfall/irrigation: if regular watering occurs the roots won't go nearly as deep as they will (must) in their native habitats (dry areas of the Mediterranean/ Middle East). The septic tank poses a different problem: if it leaks in any way ANY plant other than small, herbaceous thangs will sense (the root hairs will sense) the moisture beneath, and seek it out. So it depends on how deep the tank is and how much moisture it emits.
Anyone know what a samaan tree is,as a mate brought some seeds back
from Tobago,also how does one germinate them?
Lee, the saman tree is an Albizia species (formerly in its own genus (Saman): Albizia saman. It is similar in overall appearance to what's called "mimosa" (Albizia julibrissin) in the States; but it grows very much bigger and is infinitely more beautiful. At maturity it is one of the glories of the tropical plant world attaining a height of about 60 feet and sometimes twice that width, with one of the most beautiful shapes of any tree (to my mind). It is not cold tolerant (hails from tropical America, including Trinidad/Tobago) and is somewhat marginal in USDA zone 10a.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
:Thanks Robert,I have your book which is excellent!
Greetings,
We've just inherited a lovely (though slightly wild
looking) pencil tree from a friend who moved from town. Unfortunately,
he left no handling instructions for the feeding and caring of this
beauty. It is out on a shady patio at the moment; and is putting out
new leaves. Do they prefer shade/sun? How well do they do in dry hot
climates like ours here in southeasten New Mexico? Can it be pruned?
When? How much? Thanks for your help. Your site is wonderful.
Nancy--Euphorbia tirucalli is native to fairly dry regions of central Africa and is, therefore, tolerant of drought conditions. It also grows in full sun in its native habitat. Under container cultivation the soil/medium should be watered when the top inch of same is completely dry. As implied above, it is quite happy in full sun--BUT do not place ANY plant that has been shade-grown into full sun without acclimating it gradually to same: ANY plant (even cactus) will be severely damaged by such transference. Also be sure to bring the plant into frost sheltered area when threat of freezing comes.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
If you decide to prune, be careful of the milky sap. I don't
know this from personal experience, but I've been told that
the sap will cause severe pain and even blindness if it comes
in contact with your eyes. Ours is doing great and seems to be
racing with the palm trees, each one wanting to be the
tallest.
Thank you Robert and Jana, all of your comments are so
very helpful. We are off in search of your book Robert!
Sincerely,
Nancy
Just received seed of Bombax malabaricum, Red Silk-Cotton Tree from
India. I grow plenty of tropicals but am completely unfamiliar with
germinating seed of the Bombaceae. Has anyone sucessfully grown from
seed....or have any tips? I appreciate any and all info -- Thanks!
Mike
Mike--They are easy to germinate given warmth and moisture. Bombax ceiba (the latest name for B. malabaricum) produces flowers and sets fruit at the end of the dry season in monsoonal parts of southeastern Asia. After the young tree is established it is fairly drought tolerant, but does best with regular amounts of moisture.
--Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
I have sprouted fresh seeds of langsat (Lansium domesticum), a SE
Asian fruit. Has anyone tried to raise this before, or have any
further information on it? Thanks!
They can't take temperatures much below 42F.
I have this beautiful sago. It is about 5 years old. It now has produced this large golden egg pod. What is it? Can I reproduce another plant from it, if I can it off and plant it? Can anyone tell me whatbit is?
Hi Carla,
Sounds to me like you have a male Cycas revoluta
(King Sago)that is producing a cone. Cycads are either male or
female. The female produces a round cone, while the male's is
elongated. I have read that the pollen of either the male or
female should not be inhaled. Check out Tom Broome's website on
cycads at: Cycadjungle.8m.com. He also has a bulletin board there
on cycads. Best, Jim
I have a new China Doll plant, kept in permanent shade but good light. Location = S. California. Understand it has problems re. overgrowth and turns "leggy". Apparently nipping new growth prevents this. Can any one explain exactly how to prevent this please? The tree is about 4.5 ft high and I would rather it did not start to manically grow and lose it's $80 charm!!
It is a beautiful plant and I worry that I have purchased something that requires considerable care!
Thanks for any advise shared.
CM,
Just pinch off the tops of the plant. They can and do
get leggy, ours is growing in full sun and in the ground, one
trunk is about 20 feet in height with 2 about 10 to 15 feet. There
are 5 or more new stems (suckers) that will, if left unchecked,
grow into thick trunks to about the same height. If plant gets too
tall just cut it back it will regrow the from stem or from the
base of the plant.
my sago palm has yellow areas on the leaves. what causes this? what can be done?
Ron,
Do you feed your palms food?It sounds like they might
need nutrients.I suggest that you feed them every other month. My
palms are now 5 years old and have tripled in size. You can buy
palm food at any nursery.
My Saga Palm has this beautiful new growth on it. It looks like a golden egg. Is this a new plant? Can I cut this new growth offf and transplant it. Can any one tell me anything about it? Thank you
I live in San Bernadino County (California). My wife and I just returned from Maui. She wants a Cook Pine tree. Does anyone know if it will survive in this mostly desert climate? If so, does anyone know where in the counties of San Bernardino, Riverside, Orange or LA I can get one? Thanks.
pacific tree farms in chula vista, 619-422-2400 lists the species in their catalog. hard to tell about how well it might do in the desert. would probably want a protected, cool, and semi-shaded spot with plenty of water in the of water in the summer.
Does anyone have information re: camito fruit from Philipeans? I have access to tree and seeds.
The tree in question is Chrysophyllum cainito, most often called "cainito." It is not native to the Philippines but rather the Caribbean and Central America. It grows to about 50 feet in cultivation (with time) and has a dense crown of strikingly beautiful leaves that are green on top and a silky cinnamon benetah. Its fruits are similar to pomegranetes and are sweet when rifpe but astringent when not. The plant can stand but a touch of frost and needs full sun, warmth and lots of water (ina well drained site) during the long growing season (summer).
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
This is a tree/bush the grows profuselly in BRasil and I wonder if
anybody had seen it here in the USA. It releases a wonderful perfum at
night (jasmin like).
Thanks.
I'm curious if anyone has grown a ylang-ylang indoors or in a
conservatory.
Will they bloom indoors, and how big/how old
before they begin blooming?
Also, how fast do they grow?
Like
others on this board, I'm in love with the scent and would love to
grow this plant.
Good growing!
Jim Freeman
We have this plant if you are interested.on a scale of 1-10
C.nocturnum is a 5-6 in Puerto wheras the Brunsfelsia americana is
a 9 and Murraya paniculata is a solid 10
The Epiphyllum
oxypetalum is also a 10.She throws a 8-10" flower at night
and is gone by noon the next dayAs Riffle states she is called "Reina
de la Noche".B.americana is "Dama de la Noche"
Esteban McGrath
Loresco Tropical Plants
San
Juan,Puerto Rico
Adriana--
It's actually a very commonly grown plant in all
regions of the globe that do not have cold winters; and is not
native to Brazil, but rather the Caribbean Basin. It's easy to
grow in only a "decent" soil with good drainage and at
least half a day's sun. TWO of its common names are "lady of
the night" (!) and "night- blooming jasmine;"
although the former monicker is also used for at least two species
of night- blooming cactus and the cestrum is, in no way, related
to either cactus species or true jasmines. It's actually related
to the tomato/potato/ nightshades.
I would like to have a couple coconut palms grow in my yard. For
that reason, I have planted some coconuts, hoping they will germinate.
My question is, how fast/slow does the trunk grow? I would like to see
their trunk at about 5 to 6 feet in height. How many years do I have
to wait ? Thank you.
Hi George,
I hope you planted your nuts in the shade. I
have never had a coconut sprout in full sun! I have had nuts
sprout within 3 weeks of planting and some take 8-9 months to
sprout. Nuts I planted beside my driveway 10 years ago are now
bearing nuts for the second year. They are about 30 feet tall. The
largest one's trunk is 80 inches around and has about 6 feet of
clear trunk. From seed, I got an average of 3 feet of growth each
year. They like a lot of water when it is hot and plenty of
fertilizer. Best, Jim
I share the information about germination time frame, some come in a short time ( I guess they have pre-germinated on the tree....), others can take up to 8 months. 8 years to bear fruit?? Hm... that must be a tall variety. Most 'dwarf' varieties bear fruit in about 3 - 4 years, with about 2 - 3 ft of clear trunk.
One issue I don't agree on: Planting a coconut in full sun is a pratice here in Florida... ( I do it, others do it), and they seem to sprout quite quickly this way, provided the planting medium is adequately moist!
Regards.
Andy
: Andy
Hi Andy,
As a hobbyist grower, I planted
60 nuts in full sun. Not one sprouted. While visiting
Palmco Nursery (one of the largest growers of Coconut
palms in Fl.)on Pine Island I noticed they had literally
thousands of nuts in the shade. Since then I have always
planted in the shade. I am not so concerned about speed of
germination as I am with rate of germination. I was
getting 0% now I get 65 - 100% germination. I have visited
most nurseries in Naples and Fort Meyers as well as many
on the South-east coast. I have never seen coconuts being
sprouted in full sun.
Andy, I don't mean to imply
that I am arguing with you. Not at all. I am only relaying
my experiences and observations. Best, Jim Dorsey
I am sure both ways work fine, even if you don't produce as many seedlings in the sun as in the shade.I was thinking about it.. maybe it has to do something with the level of moisture? To germinate a coconut seed, the medium has to stay nicely moist thruout the germination time. This can be done so much easier in the shade than in the sun. My coconuts are being misted once a day, so my planting medium is nicely moist which makes for easy penetration of the husk.
Also, I looked up some old reference material.. and I quote from Dave Romney's book "Growing Coconuts in South Florida", on page 10, it states "Seed germination should be done in the open sun. The lower temperatures under shade slow down germination; seedlings grown under shade grow more slowly and become etiolated." Thought I'd share with you all :)
I was reading your message board,(very helpful) and a guy asked about a Pygmy date palm. I was going to ask if anyone knew about how to divide/propogate an Areca Palm, but now I have more questions!
I have a healthy Areca Palm with many little suckers, and have read very vague instructions on how to propogate them by dividing. How do you do this? Just pull them out?
Now I was wondering about this: That one guy asked about his palm,
and you told him that what he should do is remove all the leaves from
the plant when it is repotted. Do I do that here? What should I do?
Hi Betsy,
If you can remove a sucker or sprout (from the
mother trunk) with roots on it, it may grow. Without roots, it is
highly unlikely to grow. In either case, it chance of survival are
greatly improved if you remove ALL leaves, place it in the shade
and keep moist but not wet.
BTW, if you have a mature plant,
why not just plant seeds? They sprout in less than 2 months. Best,
Jim Dorsey Naples, Florida
We have six of these plants and would like to know something about them. Where do they come from? How do they grow best? How often do they fruit? Can we grow them in the North Island of New Zealand?
We are hoping this is an untapped market in New Zealand.
Annona muricotta...grows best in Tropical conditions @ 350-750
alt.to avoid the insect pressure assosciated at sea level.They
love a pH of 6.6 -8.0 or so.A 4 yr old tree will start to set some
poor fruit,but until you have the fruit on a 5-8 yr old tree,make
tea from the leaves .At least that is what we have done.The tea
cures every thing from flat feet to Gonarea.And tastes excellent
with cinnamom,clove and limon together.
If you want fresh seed
in commercial lots,I can supply.but be advised you will need a
phyto and thats about $50.00 to start with.
I am in zone 5b, northern Indiana. There is a man in northeast Ohio
that claims he has a banana tree hardy to -20*F. His has two
offshoots, but will not be ready for sale until next year. I was
really looking forward to getting one this year. He said it gets
10'-13' tall in one season and will set fruit if mulched good enough.
Does any one out there have any such banana tree for trade? Please
send any suggestions to woodyworker1@yahoo.com Thanks.
Sounds like Musa basjoo to me,widely available in the states,go
to www.banana.com
I've had a very hardy, vigorous, "two-trunk" P. selloum
for maybe 15 years now, adn kept it thriving in No. KY by taking it in
under lights every winter and giving it a bigger pot every few years.
It is now quite large, with the trunks being about 2 feet high (lots
of aerial roots) and seems ready for a new pot. I bought a 55-gallon
oak wine barrel with the idea of using this (the whole barrel!) as a
new pot. I'm wondering if it would be OK to bury some or all of the
trunk into the new soil when I repot, so as to promote root growth (?)
from the trunk and produce an even stronger plant, with less height. I
don't want to rot the trunk, but it would fit more neatly into the
barrel if I could bury the trunks and set the new dirt level at the
point the leaves are currently taking off from the trunk. I don't want
to rot it, however... Any experts out there who can tell me if this
plant will throw roots out of the trunk if buried, or whether it will
just rot the trunks??? Appreciate any help with this.
Get it in the ground!
Wish I could, but it wouldn't survive the winter here in
Northern Kentucky. My question is whether burying part of the
stem, where the leaves have fallen off and left callouses, and
aerial roots are coming out, will cause the stem to rot, or
encourage more root development from the stem itself. Anyone
have an answer (or even an opinion)?
I wouldn't think it would cause the stem to rot.do you have cold damp winters,I have mate a few miles away who has overwintered his small plant OK.
Considering the severity of your winters, I suspect you are quite right to overwinter indoors. Philodendron selloum may manage to cope with moderate levels of frost, but prolonged freezes could and probably would do a lot of damage.
As to burying the trunk deeper, you can safely do this
right up to just below the leaf bases if you want. The
existing 'air' roots will quickly adapt to a subterranean
existence with the buried portions of the trunk sending
out more roots. In time, the lowest parts may die away,
but the upper parts will be growing so strongly that you
won't notice.
Thanks for the response, kind sir! Braced by your
assurances, I tackled the monster today, and sank it
deep into the oak wine barrel (just short of the
existing elephantine leaves). Crikey! The whole
assemblage must have weighed 500 pounds (no
exaggeration). The oaken barrel was a good 150# (with
a layer of pea gravel), the plant itself an estimated
80-100#, and I added 12 20# bags of potting soil. Had
to add air to the tires on my hand cart to move it
into the backyard! Anyway, the project's done, and I
appreciate your advice. I'll trust a Brit for
gardening advice any day! (My mother-in-law grew up
near Devon, and lives in Phoenix now.) Anyway, the P.
Goliathus is now happily ensconced in new quarters,
and we'll see what new heights the summer will bring.
Thanks again!
I divided my Pygmy Date Palm (Phoenix Robellini) around March, which is the ideal time to divide and repot this speices of palm. I propogated some by dividing the plant and potting the rooted offsets. All went well for about a week.
The mother plant is seriously ailing, all of its fronds dried up and wilted, drooping down. The new spikes in the center appeared to be doing well, but are now drying up. All of the new plants that I have propogated did well for a while, then died. I am a little concerned, because I'm not sure what I did wrong.
Did I overwater? Or are they just suffering from transplant shock? What should I do?
Any help would be great!! THANKS!!
-Patrick
Hi Patrick, My first question is: how big it this palm? Secondly, Pygmy's typically are not clumping palms. Are you sure it is a Pygmy? When dividing palms, it is a good idea to remove ALL fronds except the emerging spear, keep in the shade, and don't water the stem only the soil. Also, if the roots were seriously cut, do NOT fertilize as the roots may burn. Hope this helps.Best, Jim
Thanks Jim for the information!
My palm is (was) about 2 1/2, 3 feet in height before I divided it.
I'm sure that it is a Pygmy Date Palm, as it was the name on the pot that it came with, and it matches the pictures in this one time life guide to house plants. The guide I have talks about how you can separate the suckers as they appear, and propogate from them. Mine sure had suckers! (about 5 or 6 of them!) Is what is happening to my palm normal from repotting/propogating?
THANKS!!
Patrick
Hi Patrick,
It is my understanding that the
clumping pygmy was only recently discovered. Maybe 3 years
ago. I got some seed from that initial shipment. My
clumping pygmy is now only about 1-1 1/2 feet tall.
My guess is that what you have is either a senegal date
(reclinata) or a cross of a pygmy and a reclinata. When I
worked in a nursery, we would receive a shipment of
several hundred pygmy sprouts. With out fail, in every
shipment several would turn out to be reclinata. The
easiest way to tell is when they clumped. Also, reclinatas
grow faster and have heavier thorns (spines).
Now,
back to your plant. Have you removed all fronds from the
plants? Very important to do this. When a palm suffers a
severe root loss, it no longer has the ability to take up
enough moisture to replace the moisture lost through the
leaves. The only moisture available to the leaves is the
moisture stored in the stem or trunk. When that moisture
is used up, the plant dies. By removing the fronds, you
are helping the plant prevent water loss. Once the palm
has sprouted out new leaves, that is a indication that it
now has roots to supply them with moisture. By keeping the
plant in the shade, the stem will have less stress and
water loss as well. Once new fronds start to emerge, the
plant is then save to move back into the sun. By not
watering the plant, you reduce the risk of mold, mildew
and fungus while the plant is trying to recover. The SOIL
should be kept moist but not wet. But don't water the
plant itself. Also, it is important to keep the plants
warm. 80F - 90F. It appears palms slow their growth rate
considerably when it is cooler. BTW, where are you
located? Hope this helps. Best, Jim Dorsey
Jim,
THANKS AGAIN!!
I didn't know that you should remove the fronds from the plants!! I did now, though. When you say "Don't water the plant itself" do you mean, set the pot in a dish of water and let it take up the water on its own, or water only the soil, taking special care not to get the trunk wet?
I am in Western New York around Buffalo. My palms enjoy the humid summers but are kept indoors on days which are cool.
I will do as you say, and I thank you again!
Patrick
Patrick, I think either method you've suggested will work fine for watering. My biggest concern was, that if you were in south Fl. , with our heat and humidity you may have problems with the stem getting too wet. Best, Jim
I believe I read that somewhere in a tropical plant guide as well as asking the horticulturist on hand ata nursery near my home. I have successfully split these palms and been successful but you got the right advice earlier about keeping them in the shade. Belinda
Hi Belinda' I really don't mean to belabor this point but, Those pygmys are planted 2 or 3 or 4 plants to a pot. a true clumping palm comes from one seed. I used to plant them that way in a nursery for resale. We would sprout up the seed. grow them until they were larger, then combine several plants together into one pot. Adonidia merrillii(Christmas palm, Manila palm) are grown the same way. Same with Chinese Fan palms. Best, Jim
I received three seeds last year from Hawaii. These seeds (pinto bean size)were dark brown with a lighter brown tiger striping. They are growing well, lots of sun and water. They have almond shaped, light green leaves, and the trunk is getting woody. These plants have also developed thorns. Any help as to what they are?
Sounds like a Coral tree (Erythrina sp.)Leaves are light to dark green, 3 lobed ovate leaves on prickly branches (also some of the leaves have thorns) Does the woody trunk look like cork? There are about 100 species and most grow in tropical to subtropical regions but some are very hardy and can regrow from roots if frozen back. Flowers are spectacular! Erythrina crista-galli
Thank you for your answer. I will look into these trees. P.S: bark does look like cork
Hi. I've been surfing, the pictures of Erythrina crista-galli L. certainly look like what I have. So what now? How do I care for these guys in CO? Any advice is deeply appreciated.
Hi Trina,
Erythrina crista-galli (Coral Tree) is
Hardy to low 20s or below and trees with large woody
trunks have recovered from a 14-degree freeze back in
1983, in the coastal bend area. They like lots of
light and water especially in the warmer summer
months. They are Deciduous although, here in South
Texas, they can remain evergreen if freeze is light
and soil is kept wet, they also can flower all year
round if right conditions are met. Coral trees can
grow to 30 feet, but if frozen back will more likely
become a large shrub. Inflorescences can vary from
pink, orange to red and bloom in cycles of about every
six weeks. In colder/cooler climates and where the
ground freezes, (not sure how hardy the root system
may be) I would guess 20 degrees, you might want to
plant them in large containers or pots, keep plant
pruned to form a nice looking shape, and beware of
thorns! If you decide to plant them out, find a
southern sheltered area with full sun and mulch heavy
in the winter. Good luck!
You have said for the Majesty Palm: "I use 50% potting soil and 50% small bark nuggets" We've got ours set up indoors. How do you set up the pot? Potting soil in first with nuggets on top? Thanks
Hi Frank, Majesty's, as with most palms, love or thrive in a near rootbound condition their whole "container" life, so plan to pot up about every two years. Make sure you see about 75% roots when you pull out the plant to inspect the palms root mass, before potting up, and generally into pot about 2-4 inches wider 4-8 inches deeper than original . Then get a bucket or whatever you have, even the ground, pour equal parts potting soil and mini bark nuggets and mix together for a short time to get an even consistancy of medium. Put about 1" of plain bark or bark nuggets into the pot first, to keep drain holes open for the two year period, then put at least 2"-3" of soil/bark nugget mix into pot, gently set palm into pot, gage depth so the root/trunk divide is about two inches below lip of given pot, hold palm in place, and with other hand gently fill in with soil/bark mix, gently pack on top and push fingers gently along sides, lightly packing soil. Water heavily and add a little more mix to keep soil and base of trunk at about 2" below lip of pot, you may need to pull up a little, and repack to get it at the right height. If the mix is 50/50 you should be just about able to direct the hose into pot without it ever overflowing due to good drainage. With a 50/50 mix, water about every 4 days when temps are 60-80 degrees, every 3 days when 80-90 degrees, and every day when approaching 100 degrees, to avoid any leaf burn, leaves burn when the soil is zapped of moisture which can happen in a day at high temps.
If you can only water once a week use a higher percentage of potting soil in your mix to hold moisture longer. I have come full circle after experimenting with countless soil mixes(vermiculite,perlite- which floats away, soil retentitive soils- which kill everything by never drying out at regular intervals, and countless high end expensive soil ideas I have read about, or been told about by numerous curator friends around the world. They all will work, but my success rate is much higher using 50/50 potting soil and mini bark nuggets. One additive I still have great success with, dare I mention, which is definitely not necessary, is pine tree dung. Which is the soil that has composted under pine trees under the fallen needle layer, this "dung" is a super additive, however is not available in stores, as far as I know, but can be found wherever a pine grove can be found. Supplement the pine mix from the potting soil (usually a large handful for a 5 gallon pot), with 50% mini bark. Hundreds of species of tropicals seem to benifit with this additive, but could be troublesome to find. I have about a 95%success rate with all tropicals with or without pine dung, with specimens in a 4" container or larger. SEEDLINGS are a different story. Honestly, I have only about a 25% success rate with "tropical grass blades" or seedlings, due to rot, which hurts, seeming never able to master a technique with the tender species, hardy types have a much higher percentage, but the challenge is small and I really do not try or have space for them. I hope this helps everybody......
Thank you, bart! You can give your hand a rest, now.
I'm curious if anyone has grown a ylang-ylang indoors or in a conservatory. Will they bloom indoors, and how big/how old before they begin blooming? Also, how fast do they grow? Like others on this board, I'm in love with the scent and would love to grow this plant. Good growing! Jim Freeman
Jim,I grow these trees for urban reforestation.My advice from the Tropics would be to grow Artabotrys uncinata the Ylang-Ylang shrubby vine before the tree.Although were you to micro grow Cananga....somewhere between a field crop and a Bonzai it should set flowers within 4-5 years.
While doing my first general garden pruning of my new house, I decided to trim most of the leaves on a Sago Palm which no one appeared to have ever trimmed. While doing so, I realized the size of the trunk was much larger than I had imagined (roughly 1' diameter & 2-3' tall)! Then as I was raking away debris from the base area, I found some honeydew sized bulbs that appear to have chutes or something ready to spread out like new leaves? I later found out that these bulbs are "pups".
I know that my sago is about to produce new leaves because I can see the large chute in the middle, is this the wrong time to pull the pups off of the base? And if I decide to wait on the pup removal, do the pups produce leaves of their own while afixed to the main trunk of the "mother" tree? Finally; If sago's are either male or female, and a female's flower needs the pollen from of male's cone to pollenate, and then produce seed to later germinate, How is it that MY plant has pups with no other sago around in miles? Thank you in advance for any advice/knowledge (everything I know about sagos is only from one evening's "sago-surf" on the net).
Hi David, Check out Tom Broome's site: cycadjungle.8m.com He is an expert and grower of cycads. At his site, he also has a cycad bulletin board. Many plants sucker. Pollen isn't required for that. All pups will be the same sex as the parent. To get seeds is when pollen is required. Best, Jim Dorsey Naples, Fl.
Thank you, the site has some really detailed info on cycads! David J
cycads, especially revoluta are dinosaurs that have been around forever and can survive just about anything, decades of drought, major fires, probably even an atombomb!. Pups can be ripped off at anytime and just put into soil and watered moderately in well drained soil, virtually a one hundred percent success rate can be expected, in due time!. They will languish for months eventually forming a large root mass before any visable leafs, perodically pull out the football(pup)to inspect progress of roots.(a friend was in the vietnam war where they had to cross a wash with jeeps, their only recourse was to hack down some cycads 15 feet long 1 1/2 dia trunk, to drive across, they hacked off the roots and leaves. He actually tied the logs to the back and they dragged them twenty miles to there ship, tied them to the outside of his ship, floating in the water for about 6 months literally, upon returning to long beach, he took the logs and planted them, they rooted in 6 mos, and are doing excellent, maybe hundreds or thousands of years old, surviving who knows what in their life time.) Short of poison I doubt very seriously if you could kill off cycads, easily recovering from the dormant stage, if the pups are large and already rooted, you might want to make an incision first half way and let them recover, then cut a little deeper and finally remove pup with roots, to speed the root recovery process(however frequently even with a surgeons touch, they will defoliate and loose roots only to start over again), some recommend removing all roots first so the new roots are aclimated to your conditions and will begin to grow as fast as they can, as unaclimated old roots may cause the plant to languish longer than a derooted cycad. Personally, I try numerous experiments including different soils, light etc., some get water once a week some get flooded daily in my rainforest setting(with good drainage: half potting soil, half mini bark nuggets).Some full sun, some full shade, all are doing excellent. cycads are the easiest plant challenge around, however they generally grow super slow, the challenge would be to gage the proper moisture/sun ratio,for optimum growth. You really don't need it,but good luck.
Woahhhhh!....Now that's a story to prove resiliency! I really appreciate the info, it gives me great courage. I have already gone home and carefully removed my pups. One cool thing, besides the two large pups, and the two medium pups, there were THREE more plum sized pups! I know this must be normal for other people, but I've only learned about Sago's recently and this is pretty fun. I plan to plant all of the pups in a couple of days. Thanks for the info. Dave J...sago happy in the sierra foothills CA
I have a healthy Texas sabal palm tree, but I don't know much about maintenance. Should I cut off the lower branches as they yellow? Do I ever need to fertilize the tree? Also - I have 4 sego palms, and 2 are not doing too well. They are transplants from the Gulf coast area and are partially yellow. They are planted in the ground in mostly sunny areas. Any advice?
Hi Laura, I'm also looking for information about growing palms in Austin, I just moved here. I'm planning to grow a tropical looking garden on my new backyard. I'll send you information if I get any. Good Luck.
Here in St Augustine Fl there are many native "Cabbage" palms that bear countless seeds. Is it practical to plant these seeds - and if so how would one go about it? Thanks, RW
They sprout quickly during warm weather. Plant them about 1/2 inch deep in a good sandy loam. If you like you can start them first in 'community' pots by planting many seeds in one pot. After they sprout they can be transplanted to individual pots. But since they sprout so quickly, you might want to just plant them in one-gallon pots to start.
Keep the seeds well watered and warm. They are seemingly slow starting out, looking more like grass than palms, but after a couple of years the small grass like leaves begin to mature and form characteristic palmate leaves. The tree does not form a trunk until the leaves have reached full size, then it begins to grow up. This may be 3 to 5 years.
Because Sabal palms are slow to mature and so common in the
Florida countryside, they are seldom sold at nurseries as small
plants. They are however attractive when small and one surely
feels a sense of accomplishment when a little seed forms a
full-grown tree. I have done just that and some of my Sabal
palmettos are 25 feet tall now.
I've just picked up one and would appreciate any
information/cultivation on this banana.
Hi Lee,
Rajapuri, is a very hardy banana, that is easy to
grow as the plant is small (1.8m to 2.4m). Is somewhat wind
resistant, with a very stout base. Fruit is very sweet and about
medium sized. They fruit every year for us here in South Texas.
It's one of our favorites!
I have read your advise on giving Majestic Palms plenty of water, but at the same time not to let them sit in soggy soil. How do I prevent this? I try to water often, but my plants stay so moist all the time that I am afraid that I may be hurting the plant. Are brown tips and yellowing an indication of dehydrating, over watering, or something else. I can still save these two beautiful plants. Please help !!
Randall,
If their in pots yank em out, if their in the
ground yank em out. replace soil with good drainage (I use half
potting soil, half mini bark nuggets, works fantastic on about
everything.) In the ground you should dig up a large area and
replace with the same said mixture, now brown tips usually means
lack of proper water, where the salts(hard compounds or minerals
in water)are not flushed out with enough water, usually in potted
specimens, that are watered slightly. If they are in the ground,
and the ground is a clay like substance or not draining, you may
need to mound up, or set root mass on level ground and put copius
amounts of properly drained soil all aroud so when you water, it
can drain away from plants, a hole in a claylike soil is basically
a coffin and will soon cause the plant to rot and wither away...
Good drainage and lots of water, brite filtered lite, warmth
and no frost equals fast growing majesty's or just about all
rainforest plants,palms and trees, good luck...
THANKS BART !! GREAT ADVISE !! A couple of weeks have gone by and they are still doing well. I will work on the potting solutions this weekend.
Hi Randall,
I take it that your palms are in pots or
containers. Water only when top of soil is dry to about an
inch down. When temperatures are cool plants will not take
up the water as fast as opposed to when temperatures are
hot. Never let palms get soggy always let them dry out
before water. Yes brown tips and yellow leaves can be a
indicator that your giving it to much water. When Ravenea
rivularis (Majesty Palms) are planted out and in the
ground it is next to impossible to over water. Make sure
the pot/container has good drainage, Also when growing and
when temperatures start to warm up give plenty of
fertilizer.
I bought a kentia palm about 6 years ago with 4 stems from about 3 to 5 feet tall. It was doing just fine for about 3 years. Then one winter, one of the taller and older stems started turning yellow. This yellowing progressed gradually so that in about 3 to 4 weeks the entire stalk was all brown, dry and dead. So I cut it off and the rest of the plant was fine. However, the next winter the same thing happened to the next tallest stem. About a year later, it happened again to another stem. Currently I just have one stem left, the smallest and youngest. It seems to be healthy and even has new growth. But I've gone from a nice tall and full kentia to a smaller thinner one. Since I've had the plant, I've always kept it in the same location where it gets low to medium light. No direct sun. It is near a south window but well off to the side. I water once about every 1-1/2 weeks, normally waiting till the top soil has dried out. I have average house temps, but live in the NE so it's dry in winter. This plant was expensive and I would like to avoid losing the remaining stalk to the same fate that took the others. I'm figuring the problem is 1) underwatering, 2) too small a pot (it's currently in about a 13" container), or 3) some sort of soil condition the plant doesn't like such as an improper pH or a nutritional deficiency. But I really have no strong clue as to the problem and would appreciate some diagnosis and advice. As for pot size, I was going to repot the plant around the time I lost the first stem, but after I lost it I figured the plant would have less need for water due to its reduced size and held off. As the plant kept losing stems, I continued to hold off potting it up to a larger pot ... Thanks!
Pat, it most likely has not been getting enough water. Are there drainage holes in the bottom of the pot? If not transplant immediately to a container WITH holes. The kentia should be watered when the top half-inch of the soil is dry. Now that there is only the one small plant left it's possbile to overwater; so it might be best to repot in any case. It definitely was not potbound. Another possibility is that there IS some pathogen in the soil; but this seems unlikely if the palms did well for so long and then suddenly started dying. I thinl repotting is in order. And, when you do so, look for insects, a nasty odor, etc.
pat, sounds like nasty soil. kentia's are very hardy, can be grown in brite filtered light or in deep shade. "Palms", in containers, love to be in a near rootbound state their whole container life. They will stunt or croak when overpotted, pot up to the nearest size: 1gal to 5 gal to 15gal or 1" liner to 2" liner to citrus pot etc. In your case, treat it as follows: lay pot on side and gently press sides till plant pulls out easily.
Gently remove all soil and remove dead plant parts and roots, trying not to damage solid roots, after 6 years in the same soil I would even flush roots with water to get rid of mushy soil. Next make a mixture of 50% potting soil and 50% mini bark nuggets, put into a pot that is a fairly tight fit for good roots, careful not to snap roots. First, fill bottom 1/3 with said mixture, gently insert plant, hold upright and gently fill in said mix, leaving soil level and crown about 1 1\2" from top lip of pot. Let grow into pot and should be rootbound or have 75% visable roots (when plant is gently removed to inspect roots)before the next "pot up" session, usually every two years.
Now that you will have proper drainage, water copiously in a kitchen sink , on the porch, in the bathtup etc. (maybe keep on a saucer and drag saucer to porch, lift out of saucer and deep water every 3-4 days, let drain for hours in filtered sunshine, then put back on saucer and drag back to desired spot. Now a big problem would be to try to water slightly at the indoor spot, keeping drain water below saucer level, as this is not enough water and will allow salt or hard minerals to accumilate and cause leaf tips to"brown tip".
If you are only able to water once a week use 75% potting soil and 25% mini brk nuggets.(50-50 grows fastest). I built several 1'deep containers (some out of stainless steel, some out of large plastic cement mixing tubs) covered with wire mesh so I can water heavily indoors and pump water out the window with a cheap circulating pump,the standing water also adds lots of humidity and enables you to grow about any tropical plant. Also try to hand mist the palms at least twice a day. 10-20 times a day if you have the heater on.
I sucessfully grow hundreds of tropical palms and rainforest plants (rare heliconia's etc) indoors with said conditions and never bother to examine ph levels, however I pot up with fresh mix every two years. it's also very important to feed palms with a palm fertilizer(near 3-1-3 ratio)preferably in a time release form, every 3-4 months or per directions, all year round when growing indoors. Paradise palms are very beautiful and even with said ideal conditions take about ten years to outgrow a house, which then can be planted into ground in spring and then they will explode into hyper growth, and when mature and seeding can generate 5-10 thousand dollars of supplemental income per year in easy seed sales.(.05cents per seed) constantly seeding all year long when mature. good luck
Hi. I just bought a wash. palm in Florida, and I live in Augusta, GA. I cannot seem to find any good info on where to plant, soil, water etc. Will these things really grow to 80 ft? Can it survive here? Thanks for any help. Norma
Norma, it depends on which species of W. as to whether or not it
will, firstly, grow to 80 feet and, secondly, survive the winter
in Augusta. W. filifera will probably survive but will not grow to
80'; W. robusta will grow to 80' under optimum conditions (so.CA,
far south TX., so.FL)but is likely to die if the temp goes below
18'F. for very long.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award
winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
Hi Norma,
Washingtonia robusta and or W. filifera can grow
in just about any kind of soil, they are hardy to around 18
degrees and sometimes even lower. There is a very good group of
excellent and knowledgeable palms enthusiast in your area. BTW I
was stationed for a few months in Augusta, while in the service
back in the 60's and I do remember seeing a few palms growing in
and around the area. You may want to join SPEPS (Southern Palm and
Exotic Plant Society you'll find some members living in Augusta.
SPEPS
I have a 3 foot tall Chaina Doll plant. The leaves keep falling off. They are not yellow or blackish. Pland is otherwise healthy. What do I do to keep the leaves on?
When I wrote you, I neglected to tell you to try nourishing with plant food. Ever since I have been putting plant food in the watering can, it seems to be thriving and staying greener. I use: Peters Professional All Purpose Plant Food
Linda is correct, in that Radermachera (China Doll) does like fertilizer and water especially when the temperatures start to get warmer, they also need some humidity. During the spring mine start to drop the bottom branches for whatever reason, this stops, after about a month, during the course of a year they may drop a few branches but usually not many. Inside (house) and also container plants, may grow differently than those growing outside and in the ground.
Gary, South Texas:
When you stated that you start the China
Doll by seed, do you have to buy seed in packet or does the seed come
from the plant itself? Putting the cuttings into water doesn't work so
I want to re-start plant to keep it as a small plant rather than the
large one that I do have now. Thank you.
Hi Linda, Our China Doll has never flowered (maybe this year?) so you would have to either start a new one by (1) a new plant from a nursery or (2) from seed. Did you try putting the a herbaceous cutting in peat or sand? Hardwood or semi-hardwood wood cuttings are more for water and misting, and I really don't know if it would work for Radermachera, as I have never tried it. Maybe I should take a few cutting out to the Rhapis Gardens Greenhouse and try it as we propagate ivy and Ming Aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) both using misting and soil propagation.
Is there a way to make start-up plants from the clippings that are cut off the main plant? If not, how can I get a start-up plant started?
Although I grow China Doll 'Radermachera sinica' (Out side) I have never tried to propagate them from cuttings. If I were you I would give it a try. If that doesn't work you can always grow them from seed.
I live in Portland, Oregon and bought a majestic palm for my apartment last year. I made sure to give it plenty of light, water, and fertilizer, and it was doing great. That is until this past winter when I neglected to take care of it properly. It now has some brown leaves. I cut one of the fronds off below the brown part, and after that, the rest of the frond died. I am left with one frond with leaves that are brown from the top to about half way down, and what was going to be a new shoot that looks dried out & I don't think will open. My question is what to do about them. Do I want to cut them off? If I do that, will it hurt the rest of the plant? (I am not a plant person and this is my first large one. The palm is about 5 1/2 feet tall.) I have started taking care of it properly again, and there is another new shoot that is growing so I know that I haven't killed it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Dustin, keep the soil moist and give it as much light as
possible--also keep it away from temps below 60'F. DO NOT
fertilize it now--with anything.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of
the award winning book,
THE
TROPICAL LOOK
I am a final year student from university in Malaysia. Now I am doing my final year thesis, it is a research about the media for the palm in tissue culture. (in-vitro). I am using MS (Murashige Skoog)media. My palm is not growing since last 5 months. I am very worry now because my due date is very close. I hope somebody will help to solve my problem. Please advise me of what ingredient I should add to my media to make my palm growing and multiple. Thank you. I hope to hear from someone soon. Connie Geri Malaysia.
With all due respects to other board contributors I think a better place for this query would be the plant tissue culture listserv: http://www.agro.agri.umn.edu/plant-tc/listserv/
Several palm species can be successfully micropropagated but only the date palm is produced on a commercial scale. There is plenty of work on Oil Palm in Malaysia but I'm not sure if it is commercial yet for various technical reasons. You could consider contacting Christine Alang at UKM, who has worked on various palms and I am sure would be able to help. However, you should also consider working on a more amenable plant. Palms are most definitely not suitable subjects for a final year tissue culture project, they are far to slow to respond. I think you have been badly advised. Good luck anyway. David Constantine
I don't know if this will help, but have you thought about trying plant hormones such as auxin and cytokinin? I know that for some plant tissues, auxin can promote cell division. Do you have an advisor who is a botanist who can maybe help you out? Chuck, jax fl.
I could be wrong, but my understandng is that micro-propagation techniques (tissue culture) have not yet been found to work with palms. Solitary stemmed species have only a single meristem from which cutlures can be taken and until very recently at least, nothing has been found to successfully promote cell division.
I need suggestions on how to get rid of too many ladybugs invading houses. Thx
Whoaaa.....If you hae too many "Ladybugs"...be sure they are lady bugs.Never kill a Lady bug as they are predators of Aphids and other soft body pests.If you really have Ladybugs in quantities your problem is not the Ladybug as she is a predator but someone else.
Hello,
I live in south Florida and have just purchased a 5 ft
Jackfruit tree. I am looking for any advise anyone can give me on the
care of this tree.( Water, fertilizer,etc.) Thanks for your help!
Kevin
Kevin, the jackfruit will need irrigation in drought situations.
The tree grows too large to be fertilized regularly; an organic
mulch will work wonders, however, on the oolitic "soil"
of southern FL.
Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award
winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
Wow, jackfruit trees remind me of growing up in Bangladesh. We had several jackfruits, really big trees, with big leaves, lots of sap and those gigantic fruits that would come falling out of the trees like bombs. Our mother would always warn us not to play under the jackfruits. I wish they would grow here in Texas.....
Wont they grow in Texas?
Last October I planted a small Tibouchina, about 2 feet tall, in the
garden. Over winter we had 3 or 4 nights of frost and, even though I
covered the plant with a blanket on those nights, it died back to the
ground. Everything I read about the plant says that if it dies back to
the ground during Winter it will return in the Spring. Now it's March
25th and I see no signs that the plant will come back this year. Is it
too early to tell or have I lost my plant? I did take a cutting of the
plant last Fall and have another ready to go, but I hesitate to take
up the existing one if there is a chance it will grow this year. This
is a new plant for me and I don't know what to expcet as far as its
growth habit in the Spring. Any suggestions gratefully appreciated.
Larry, Myrtle Beach, SC
tibuchinas seem to be about as hardy as some of the more tender fuchcias here in zone 8b/9a pacific north west. they will be killed down to the ground at about 25f. you should wait til late april or may before you should expect regrowth. with moisture, fertilizer, and moderate warmth (i dont believe it really enjoys high heat) it should be blooming for you this summer. ours are blooming already in coos bay/north bend, oregon and have doing so since feb. even with some light frost.
Thanks for the timetable. I just didn't know when to expect new growth from the ground. I'll certainly wait until May before I give up on the plant.
I would like to buy Shell Ginger rhizomes. Any suggestions who to contact? Also Agapanthus "storm Cloud"
Mark,we have most gingers,Heliconias,Costus and Globba in
Rhizome or plantls also.Describe your specific need by Botanical
name or by the flower and leaf structure and color Enter by direct
E-Mail and we will get you ewhat you want
Esteban McGrath
Loresco Tropical Plants
HI everyone! I got a question about my Wodyetia bifurcata. A few days ago I noticed that all of the fronds are becoming a little white. I am worried if it is a disease or something. Any info. would help about this.
Blake,
Try some palm fertilizer, the faded leaves may get
some color back if it is hungry, if it is due to cold spells, the
new leaves should be green if still alive and properly cared for.
I have a few calamus species, veitcha's and other warm tropicals
that have been relegated to the great cold outdoors in the los
angeles area, due to space or lack there of, that bleach during
winter and usually recover like clockwork, year after year. During
winter, I try to cram lots of plants in close quarters together,
protect from wind, trap as much heat as possible cover with
plastic sheeting during near frosts, and pray often. Foxes are
hardier than most tropicals, but if treated like a tropical will
do very well, the colder it gets the longer the setback. good
luck...
Recently I have came to LOVE using palms in my room. So far I have a small bella palm and a majesty palm, of which is about 5.5 feet tall. The majesty palm seems to be doing so-so, as the very tips of the leaves turn brown. Is this a problem or is it normal? It is in the center of the room facing a window, to give it as much light as possible since it can be pretty dark in my room. Anyway, I have this idea of allocating some space in one of the corners and putting a decorative grow light above. I plan on adding several species of plams and ferns there. Based on your expertise, would this idea workout?
Oh, and the majesty is in an 8 inch pot..should I repot it..and with what commercially available soil?
Thanks a TON in advance!!! Email would be greatly appreciated. Dustin Graves Fairfax, MO fhsdustin@hotmail.com
Dustin, Brown tips mean lack of copius water, use a well drained mix like 50-50 potting soil and mini bark nuggets. When watering make sure you flood it and water flows out the holes alot,in a sink or ?( I water every 4 days and mist like crazy, middle of a room is too dark, if your going to create a garden, try to utilize the space in front of the window, set plants on top of a dresser or ?, utilize the light. I do, and also use a halide 1000 watt light system, forget fluorescents as they do next to nothing in comparison. My light setup is in my living room and provides so much heat that I never have to turn on a heater all year and its 90 deg during the day and the high 70's at night,(enabling me to grow virtually anything tropical) its on a timer and provides enough light for the kitchen, dining room and living room from 10 in the morning to 11 at night cutting lots of utility bills. I try to grow about every tropical specie I can find. Ferns indoors languish, I can keep them alive and they grow slowly, heaters kill them zapping necessary humidity, try adding humidity trays and mist often. However in the past few years I moved the ferns outdoors in shade and provide wet, humid conditions, try the same indoors, mist often and then some, sounds like you have the tropical bug, and you won't beleive the metamorphis, surrounding yourself with a meticulous tropical jungle. aaah the quality of life.... good luck
When should my rhizome be planted? Last year, it was planted in June, and failed to bloom after growing about 1 1/2 ft tall.
I have grown butterfly ginger for several years. I live close to San Diego. Where are you located? The soil temperature needs to warm up a bit before growth begins. My gingers overwinter in the ground and do fine. New growth is now coming up.
I live in Michigan, z 6A. I have to dig up my ginger rhizomes in the fall.
Help from Houston, Texas! We have a corner in our yard that we want to clear and landscape with a tropical look. We have had luck with palms in other areas of our yard and want to include those. Before we begin tearing up our yard we would like to have some idea of what to place there. Any architectural "floorplans" would be helpful. Can't seem to find much - perhaps we're not looking in the right place.
Kathy, impossible to landscape an area without seeing it. What
part of the city are you in?
--rlr, author of the award
winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK (and fellow Houstonian)
We have a potted Plumeria (probably a hybrid) which has flowered consistently in the past and has/had a stem approx. 4 feet long. Moving the plant today, the stem broke off in the middle, revealing rot in the middle of the trunk. We have removed the rotted portion of the stem and fertilized the remaining nub. However, we have some concern that it is planted in quite compact and, perhaps, not so well draining soil. Should we try to re-pot it in a lighter mix like peat moss and perlite or will that be too much additional trauma right now? We also immediately (this morning) planted the end of the stem as a cutting, without leaving the cutting to sit out and form a "scab". Should we un-pot it and leave it out to form such a "scab"? Both were fertilized with a light fish emulsion. We would appreciate any help and advice.
I had a similar experience with breaking a piece of branch off a plumeria last summer in a thunderstorm. There was no rot in the broken pieces, but I thought my plant was wrecked. The main plant had no adverse effects and I repotted the broken piece. You should take out that piece you polanted and let it dry out a bit or else the whole thing will rot. Another time, when I first had a plumeria, I left it out on the deck a little too late in the fall and it gor some frost damage. The damage started a rot that needed severe surgery to the main stem to stop. I never treated it with anyrthing special and today the plant is about 4 feet tall. Yours should survive, but get that cutting out of the pot and let it dry.
I found your xlnt website after months of searching for an answer to a MAJOR problem with my sago palm (I beleive its a "cyca").
I live in San Diego, CA, and have "clay-like soil". I purchased a large cyca from a homeowner who was moving, about a year ago. Its trunk is about 10-12 inches wide, and about 16 inches high. It was beautiful and adorned the center of our front lawn, everyone commented on it. It started browning in the midst of a heat wave in july & august, so I watered it more in Sept..Then a local gardener told me it was "too wet", so I stopped. No new leaves have ever grown, and its getting more brown each month.
I'm thinking of transplanting to a larger, better drained hole in the backyard, desperate to "save its life"! PLEASE HELP!!!!! ANTHONY
Anthony, Check out Tom Broome's Web site: cycadjungle.8m.com He also has a bulletin board and will help with any questions. Best, Jim
Anthony, I do not know of anything that grows in clay, most mound up so water drains away from given flora, consider adding a 2'-3'level of soil above clay level and grade away from flora for drainage, then you could grow anything. It is difficult to kill a sago but it will set back to the trunk sans roots and leaves when set in a coffin or undrainable clay hole. I had a few experiences with sago's browning before I grasped the concept of good drainage, since then I have enjoyed a full head of green on all my cycads, with an occasional brown finger that I pluck off. might be a costly idea, however very effective. good luck...
I live in Houston. The butera queen palm does not freeze in Houston. I am trying to locate one.
I think what your looking for is a X Butiagrus nabonnandii a hybrid cross between a Butia capitata and Syagrus romanzoffiana. Mike Burnett and/or Kyle Robinson of Houston might know where to locate one in your area. Go to The Gulf Breeze Message Board! The Gulf Breeze Message Board
does anyone know of any possibly hardy species of treeferns and where could i purchase them? many thanks what ever.
The hardiest tree fern that I know of is Dicksonia antarctica. It is hardy to zone 8B. However, if you are willing to provide protection when temps go below the upper teens, there is no reason why you couldn't grow it in z7B. Visit this website: www.fancyfronds.com They sell small tree ferns, but also have some 5 gallon ones if you inquire about them. I purchased a 5 gallon one from them last year.
im new to the new orleans area and would like to find some good garden centres for the tropical looking plants any help would be wonderful thanks
Saskia- by far the most extensive nursery in the New Orleans area is Bantings. It's located across the old Mississippi river bridge, in Bridge City.If you cross from the east bank, take the first right at the traffic circle, & then again your first right. When you get to the levee take another right & it's on your right about 100 ft. Also, one of my favorites in the area is Rose's Garden Center on the west bank expressway. It's in Harvey near Barataria. Good Luck!! Steve
There are many nice nurserys North of the big lake in the Covington Mandeville area. Take the causeway go thru Covinton and hit U.S.190 you will cross an overpass that goes over the Tchefuncte river. There is a nursery on the right hand side that has a decent selection of tropicals. I think the name is Imhara's. Can't remember for sure. Also call Casadaban's and ask them. If you are looking for beautiful gardens to travel and look you need to experience the Zemurray Gardens outside of Loranger. Wonderful azalea gardens with a lake and small waterfall. I haven't been there in several years but I have heard it is even better. Good Luck MAD
What, You don't think so ?
. Well, beleive it or not, here it is. Last summer, I bought a pair of 2' tall, 1 gallon Washingtonia robusta at a "K" mart, "end of season" plant close out sale, both for $7.oo . I planted them on the pond-dike not thinking about trying to keep them over winter. I'm planning on planting some hardier ones this spring & decided to pratice cold weather protection on one of them.
. I took a 4 gallon bucket, with the bottom cut out, placed it over one of them. I filled it with saw dust for insulation around the roots & the base of the plant. If it was going to rain, I'd place a plastic picknick table over it so the saw dust wouldn't get wet. Whenever the tempatures were forcast to dip below the upper 20's, I'd wrap a terry towell around the leaves to hold them togather & 3 more bath towells around that for insulation. I'd top that off with an upside down, 55 gallon, plastic trash can. I would remove all that whenever the weather permitted. (thinking that if it lasted till Christmas, I'd be lucky) The lowest here this winter was 9*F with over a week of below freezing tempatures.
. Well, 3 weeks ago, I removed all protection. All older leaves are brown & dead, but the youngest is 1/2 green with a 9" spear presently growing. . I feel that if a W. robusta could survive protected that way, then the more cold hardy ones shouldn't have to much of a problem during winters protected that way.
. I probably won't protect it next winter because I want to try a date palm in that spot next. Then again, maybe not. . Looking accross the pond, it's the only thing green over there. The spear is 1/2 opened, with another trying to push up. Don't you just love spring?
Isn't Dallas,TX zone 7 or8? Or did you say you say you are in NE OK?
I'm in zone 6 in M.E.Okla. -- > 2 different Tony's. Ok?
I was at the local Walmart today and found some 5 gallon Phoenix roebelinii and Livistona chinensis for $7.96 each. The roebelinii were in excellent shape, the chinensis on the other hand has been neglected. It is about 3ft tall, but has a few broken stems and dried out fronds (the remaining fronds seemed okay). The plant was in bone-dry soil and was leaning to one side. My question is would this plant recover if watered and fertilized properly, would it be worth the price given the condition of the plant, and how fast does this type of palm grow so that I would know when (if) my efforts were worthwhile? They also had "Elephant Ear" bulbs for $2.50 each, seems like a good price. Thanks for your time guys, any info you can give me (personal experience) with both of these palms will be appreciated, take care.
Good price for both palms. The Phoenix roebelenii should be a fast to med. growing palm, yet on the other hand, the Livistona chinensis is on the slow side. Are these palms going to be planted on the outside (in situ) or in containers)? Water the palms and keep them moist but not wet. Give them good light and fresh air this will help in their recovery. If your growing them for inside plants the Phoenix roebelenii is your best bet! Watch for spider mites, give it a little extra N during the warmer months when palm is actively growing. Hope this helps.
I was given several potted Sago Palms. I live in the "hill country" north of San Antonio which is very rocky. Can anyone help with planting and care instructions? Thanks
Ray, there are two problems with growing sago "palms" (Cycas revoluta) where you are: soil and climate. The soil problem (alkaline and rocky) is much easier dealt with by simply amending the existing with lots of compost; the climate (USDA zone 8a/8b) is more of a problem, but it fyou are willing to protect the plants when the temp is forecast to drop below 20'F. you can probably grow them.
I have a mango tree that is 5 years old with flowers. How do I pollinate the tree. I live in Palm Desert, CA and there are no other mango trees in the area. Thanks for any info
i don't know but is any way that ican get one or do you know were i can get one thank's dan
I had one come up from seed last summer. It came up on its own in the compost. I dug it out & put it in a pot to bring in over the winter. I only got a little of the root tho, but it still has some green, so mabe it'll make it.
Found it floating in the canal this morning. Which end is up?
I grow alot of nuts and I suggest to shake it and if there is milk either plant it pointy side down or place nut in h2o. One of the three sides will point up. Plant it exactly the same way it is floating.
I can't see it!!! : ) Shake it. Does it slosh? If all is quiet, it's probably dry. If is sounds like it is half-full, it's probably good. Lay it flat, cover it about half way, keep it in the shade, keep it moist, not wet,keep it warm,preferably 90F. I've had some sprout in as little as 20 days. Some can take 6 months or more. I give all seeds 1 year. Some more. Best, Jim
Does anyone know how to get rid of leaf rollers on my canna lillies? Please help. Marcel
Marcel- I hate those rollers with passion!! I start out in the early spring with a spray of liquid seven. Every 2 weeks or so I do a follow-up. Short of picking them off by hand(very time consuming if you have large beds) or worse yet, cutting them all down to the ground,this is the only thing I've found that really works. I hope this helps. Stev in NO
Squash them or spray with BT. Val
Can someone tell me the the best fertilizers for palms and pineapples. I have four palms I planted last spring in Ft.Worth and they did realy well(2 6ft. 1 4ft. 1 2ft.)I know they are not native to this soil and I want to give them something to get them realy going this spring.Also, many six to eight inch palms from seeds,pineapples and bannanas. Thanks
Use a palm special fertilizer every three months as directed but not too close to the plant. If they are in pots, dynamite works well. Marcel
The important thing about a palm fertilizer is that it should have an analysis close to 3N:1P:3K:1Mg plus a good slug of micronutrients. Even more important is that ALL of the N and K and Mg should be in a slow release form, (A secong alternative is to have NOTHING in a slow release form, and to make many frequent, tiny applications.) These recommendations are for South and Central Florida, but apply pretty generally unless soil conditions are so strange that your local extension office has warned you about them. We use 1.5 lb per 100 sq. ft. of the palm specials available in Florida, at intervals of 3-4 months. Try www. hortworld.com and then palm links and then Univerisyt of Florida Reseasrch Center, Fort Lauderdale to find Tim Broschat's article spellig all this out. Good feeding.
I have turned my dry office at work into a Humid warm green house. The window faces south, I am in Seattle. I have a 4 foot double tube florescent light with Sylvania Gro-Lux installed. There is a Bonaire clean mist3 about 18 inches from the plants. Humidity runs around 32% with out misting and above 60% after a good leaf spray. The diurnal range is 80 to 70 degrees F. There is the set up. I have a new alocasia amazonica, Three rhizomes in one 10 inch pot, about 13 leaves total. They look healthy. I have the plant about 18 inches from the light, I put the blind down on sunny days to limit the direct light. The Gro-lux is on for 10 hours a day. Is this to much light? I just noticed some leaf droop, not excessive but I don't want to hurt the plan by ignoring the droop. There is really mixed information on this plant, some say bright winter light others say shade. If I need to limit ligh how high should the light be from the plant? I went on the bright side of the spectrum. Any help will be greatly welcomed. Thanks
Jeff, A. x amazonica wants high, bright shade.
Does anyone know if I can send these to Singapore without customs ,quarantine problems?I'm looking into starting a business along those lines.
Call your local USDA-APHIS-PPQ office for orientation.Inter-country shipping of plant material is involved
I've been thoroughly unsuccessfful finding a nursery selling gunnera. Does anyone know a supplier? I'm in Zone 7 but I'm a sucker for punishment and making things as hard as possible. I have a VAST plastic tub that can just be moved by four people so at least the plant could come in for some winter protection. Any help appreciated.
here are three mail-order sources: colvos creek nursery (vashon island, wash.) email: colvoscreek@juno.com ,heronswood nursery (kingston, wash) website: www.heronswood.com , and forestfarm nursery phone: 541-846-7269 (in williams, oregon)
I notice someone posted a message a while back about litchi trees loving acid. Is this true? I have 2 trees 1 is 3 years old and 1 is about 8 years old (older 1 is about 9ft tall and 6 ft wide). The older 1 has had a few fruit blooms but never any fruit. Maybe its because I use normal fruit tree fertilizer on them. How do I raise the acid in the soil? Could not enough acid be the problem? I live in the ideal climate (south Florida). Thanks for any help, Kevin
Hi Kevin, Check out this booklet; ISBN: 0-8200-0409-X. Only a couple $. "Tropical Fruit Trees" In it they recommend an application of 8-4-8-4 every two months on young plants. Thereafter, 1-2 times per year at a rate of 2 lbs per inch of trunk diameter. Heavy organic helps, as well as a lot of water. But don't flood. Foliar sprays are a good idea, also. No mention is made of needing a pollinator. Best, Jim
I RECENTLY READ AN ARTICLE WRITTEN BY DON TOLLEFSON REGARDING PLANTING PALMS IN THE CONTAINERS. http://www.raingardens.com/psst/articles/palmpot.htm I HAVE 7 PALMS, 15GAL. (PLASTIC CONTAINER)3TRACHY.FORT., 3CHAMEROPS HUMILIS.,1BRAHEA ARMATA. THAT I AM PLANNING TO ADD TO MY LANDSCAPE WHEN THE WEATHER WARMS UP. I LIVE IN THE HIGH DESERT OF CA. (LANCASTER). WOULD IT BE PRACTICAL FOR ME TO PLANT IN THIS MANNER? THANK YOU, DAVE
Dave, This method works great, and only increases the odds of immediate growth right after transplanting. It keeps the roots insulated from colder soil temperatures, which can cause the plant to go into shock or a "sulk" state of not growing. Its a good idea to gently split the sides and bottom of pot. This technique, I beleive, was pioneered by a very nice lady up in ventura california, who has been growing hundreds of rare palms for 30-40 years. Some 80-100 feet tall, with 18" plus diameter trunks, BLASTING OUT OF THE ORIGINAL ONE GALLON POT!!!! (she left the pieces) This technique enabled her and all of us, to grow tempermental tropical palms and plants, and avoid that critical period of shock when transplanting them into the ground. Don Tolleffson's book "The Diamond Lane Guide to Growing Palms" is a definate MUST HAVE. It's not your typical coffee table book, rather, chocked full of excellent information on "every aspect" of palm growing. The best palm growing "manual" on the market, covering hundreds of topics.(available thru "palm society" bookstores). good luck
Bart, Thank you for the promt reply. Mr. Tollefsons' article and what you confirmed make perfect sense to me. I guess I just needed some reassurance. The planting procedure you described is precisely what I had in mind. I will let you know the results. Again, thanks for the reply. Dave
I am very interested in elephant ears. I have the common green variety. I had the taro purple sheild,it rotted. I am aware of the taro black magic. I have another taro but the name escapes me. It is green with purple veins and sends off new tubers rapidly. Are there any others? I would also like a list of catalogs where I could purchase them. I already have Spring Hill,Brecks,and just ordered Stokes. I received a list from Mo. Botanical Garden, it wasn`t much help.I would appreciate any info:)
-- For another good site, having a good selection of them (& many other unusual plants), Click on the link below. They also have a very interesting catalog that they'll send you, if you ask for it. -- Their e-mail address is on his web site if you want to make contact
we are in Puerto Rico and offer a reasonable price for very nice
plants.We also have over 200 cultivars of Heliconia and most all
gingers.E-mail me for a list if you want plants...not only
Aroids,but other Tropicals also.
Esteban McGrath
Loresco
Tropical Plants
San Juan,Puerto Rico
Hello All I was given a Majesty palm for Valentines Day from my great hubby.Other than the usual 3 lines of care instructions, there is no other information available for it. I live in Texas where it has been quite dry for a few years now. What is some good advice for caring for my palm? Does anybody know of any good resources on the net for these palm trees so I don`t have to bore everyone with 80 questions on this board? Any advice or help will be greatly appreciated. The life of my palm tree depends on it! LOL! Thank you for any and all replies
Hi Michelle, the two best sites to start are; palms.org and plantapalm.com. At both sites there is a list of other sites. Just a suggestion... you need to mention if the palm will be kept indoors or outside. Here in so. Fl. we have them outside. A lot of people are trying them inside and seem to have trouble. Best , Jim
I`m going to try and keep it outside, but Texas has been having very hot dry summers, so I`ll just have to play it by ear. Thanks for the websites. I`ll be checking them out very shortly.
-- If you keep it inside, they are prone to heavy infestions of red spider. Also, they don't like the dry heat of winter, or the dry, summer airconditioning. -- One thing you might have noticed on past posts is that it needs LOTS of water. If you plant it outside (I would if it were me) it would do better with weekly deep watering than daily shallow watering. They also like part shade. Good luck with it. Keep us informed on what you do & how it does.
Is anyone familiar with te culture of this plant? I have one that seems to be growing taller, but is losing most of its lower leaves.
Hi Alvin, I have several in pots here in Naples, Fl., and they always lost their leaves during the winter. Best, Jim
Thanks Jim. I currently have it indoors, but will put it back outdoors in the spring. Do they sprout new side shoots, or do new suckers arise from the base? Alvin
Alvin, My plants are from cuttings. I usually only keep one old ugly plant for cuttings and sell the rest. I have only seen side shoots, never suckers. That don't mean they don't do it, I just haven't seen it. Jim
I live in Sydney, Australia and wish to germinate some Pandanus palm seeds. Can a palm guru give me optimum conditions for this to occur.
Dave, I can't claim that title. However, as no one else offered to help... My experience has been spotty at best. Sometimes they sprout sometimes they don't. I visited with a local nurseyman on this very subject. He has been growing Pandanus from seed for years. He told me some years no seeds sprout, other years, every seed sprouts. He was at a loss for an explanation.He treated them the same as palm seeds. Shade, moist and warm. Sorry, but that's the best I can offer. Jim
Good on you Jim. This is all I needed to know. Thanks for answering. I shall start them off right now!! Dave
How are seeds of Brachychiton discolor started? Anything in particular that I should know? I just got several pods (I've only removed the seeds from one). Is 26 an average amount of seeds per pod? Also, I have received seeds for Tabebuia ipe (avellandae), Enterlobium contortisiliqum, and Peltrophorum dubium. Do these need anything particular? How much light is required for germination, soil type, moisture?
Brachychiton seeds don't really need any special treatment. They will retain viability for up to a couple of years, but sooner is usually better than later. Care should be taken handling the seeds as they are surrounded by irritant hairs.
Tabebuia ipe seeds on the other hand have a very short viability, not surpassing 90 days (ref: Harri Lorenzi). I have germinated T. roseo alba without any trouble, and the seedlings are reasonably robust. I don't have any experience with the other two unfortunately.
I would keep the seedlings in a sunny place with a glass or plastic cover over the top to keep the humidity high. Also, if you can buy a seed raising mix and sterilize it by putting it in the microwave for a minute, and then put the seeds in this (after it has cooled down!)you may find that fungus doesn't kill as many seedlings as it otherwise might.
Alternatively you can pour boiling water over the soil, and in both cases the first time you water the seedlings after they germinate, you can add a fungicide to the water (ask at the nursery). If you can't buy purpose-made seed-raising mix, you can make your own which is probably as good by using 3 parts washed river sand, 1 part peat-moss, 1 part good quality loam. Good luck.
I have a 5ft palm that has two babies that are almost a foot tall. When is it safe to take them from the tree and how do I do it?
Never! If you are talking about suckers(babies) of a ponytail palm it will kill the whole plant!!
I'm a licensed seed collector based in Cairns Queensland Australia. Currently offering wodyetia bifurcata (foxtail palm) seed at $US220/thousand, any quantity fresh picked with Aus. govt export permit. Also normanbya normanbyi (black palm)at $US120/thousand, and cycad seeds in season. Other rare seeds or common seed please enquire.
Can you please get back to me about foxtail seeds?
I have been reading about the care for the majesty palms they seem harder to care for than most indoor plants but are lovely. I have purchased two, one is a larger plant and the older outer leaves are yellowing fast the newer leaves in the center, the tips are now yellowing. What am I doing wrong. At first I thought I was not watering enough. I purchased 3 wks ago.
I too am having similar problems with my Majesty Palm here in N.C. I suspect I am guilty of exposing the plant to too little humidity and too much heat (near a heater). Leaves and stems are browning. How can I best revive and save this plant? (have relocated it away from the heat source, and spray mist it daily with watering every week...) Thanks for any help..David
"Majesty's" are amongst the fastest growing palms on earth, given the correct conditions. like most tropicals, are very unforgiving, one wrong move and you've lost it. Basically they come from the madagascan rainforest, growing around river banks, hence the latin name "ravena rivularis". So they love copious amounts of water, like most all palms given proper drainage( I use 50% potting soil and 50% small bark nuggets from home depot or ? works great). You can water from every day to once a week, depending on the drainage. Optimally every day with great drainage. Sounds like both senerio's were lacking light. They need lots of bright filtered light(up to leaf burning level), and palm fertilizer only every three months in a time released form. The heater can cause a problem with humidity or the lack there of, so you better mist often or boil alot of water, but they need warmth first and water second, light third and can survive dry warm winters, given proper suplemental humidity. They love to grow into a rootbound state and pot up only into the next available size. They should explode with conditions similar to these, joining your local palm society is a great way to obtain brillant colored rare palms for dirt cheap. good luck mahalo
What is the proper way to start a banana plant from the fruit? ....or can you even do that?
When I planted oriental vegatables on the So Coast of PR,a Chinese farmer hired 10 field workers to plant bananas in the ground to grow plantsThey all listened very carefully and with great respect to him and got the hell out of there as soon as he was finished giving instructions on how to do it.Edible banana plants are taken from new plants or suckers or from TC which is quite expensive timewise.
Hello, No you can not plant the bananas or the banana seeds from the bananas that you buy at the food store. Infact the seeds from the bananas at the store are not really true seeds. You can only get true seeds from wild bananas. The seeds in the wild bananas can range from a pea size seed to a nickle size seed. If you would like to try to grow some banana seeds try buying them from the Park's seed catalog. Those seeds are large almost nickle size seeds and are perfect for the one who has never tried banana seeds before since they are so big. I have orderd some banana seeds from parks seeds before and had great results, infact I found that they were much easier to start then the smaller banana seed varieties that I orderd from different seed companys. By the way the seed sizes vary from variety to variety. The seeds that you order from Park's seeds will be the Musa Ensete seeds, which I think is the largest banana seed variety. The seeds may take some time to sprout, but believe me, it's worth the wait.
Thanks Joe, I will definately give those seeds a try! Mike
Hello, No you can not plant the bananas or the banana seeds from the bananas that you buy at the food store. Infact the seeds from the bananas at the store are not really true seeds. You can only get true seeds from wild bananas. The seeds in the wild bananas can range from a pea size seed to a nickle size seed. If you would like to try to grow some banana seeds try buying them from the Park's seed catalog. Those seeds are large almost nickle size seeds and are perfect for the one who has never tried banana seeds before since they are so big. I have orderd some banana seeds from parks seeds before and had great results, infact I found that they were much easier to start then the smaller banana seed varieties that I orderd from different seed companys. By the way the seed sizes vary from variety to variety. The seeds that you order from Park's seeds will be the Musa Ensete seeds, which I think is the largest banana seed variety. The seeds may take some time to sprout, but believe me, it's worth the wait.
is it possible to grow a needle palm in Akron-Canton area of Northern Ohio ?
John was a little of as to my location. I live in Streetsboro, a little closer to Akron. I do have Two needle palms growing outside and doing fine, even with -13 we experienced a few weeks ago. They are growing on the East foundation of my house with oak leaf mulch and a plastic windbreak. If you want more information please E-mail me.
Yes, I met someone who has had two needles in his yard for three years. He germinated them from seed himself. I saw tehm this past fall when I was buying some bamboo from him. He is actually in Strongsville not Akron-Canton though. He also has Pampas grass growing in his yard for several years. If you like, you can email me and I can give you more info. I'm in the Akron-Canton area twice a year doing landscaping at my uncles yard (in Canal Fulton).
I cut into a very ripe pineapple today and discovered that it had gone to seed. This is the first time I've ever encountered this. Are there any secrets to successfully growing pineapple from these seeds?
Interesting. Commercial pineapples are grown with different varieties carefully isolated as cross pollenation between varieties will give seeded fruit. I've grown pineapple from seed. You can expect 2 things; alonger period of growth till flowering and a wild range of varietal differences between offspring. Some will not be edible, others will be fine, often with unusual characteristics.
Wash the seed off and plant directly as soon as it dries a bit. Germination is not a problem but the young plants will look just like grass seedlings. If you live in a commercial pineapple growing area I would recommend that you do not do this as the pollen from your plants could cause a disaster in a commercial planting!
Roy Lent
Craig less than a zillionth of pineapples are propagated from seed....when available.From tops or babys ,yes 'but not from seed
I have a few red seeds of a cycas(dont know which one) and was wondering how to Germinate them? Please help..Thanks, Marie
If they're red and also about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm)long, then they're likely Zamia pumula, "The Cardboard Palm". You bury them shallowly in a fast draining compost, and keep them WARM, and just damp. Be patient, Cycads aren't in a hury to germinate. Steve
I've brought back some delonix regia (flame of the forest) seeds from India, and I'm wondering how well they will do in Santa Rosa, about an hour north of San Francisco. Summers are long and hot here, but winters can be cool, with lows in the 30s--and sometimes lower than that. Is it possible to grow this tree here? Any tips?
The hot summers will help but even large plants can be killed outright by 28'F.
Craig, Ive grown Delonix regia in Southern California -- even if it survives frost the real key to success is the long growth season that we dont have in California to make it bloom. Must be why we dont see it here....one in San Diego is 25 yrs old never has flowered there. Still it is handsome...I'm trying D. elata Mike
I have heard that there is one tree growing in Berkeley, which is a little milder than Santa Rosa. I tried Delonix from seed several years ago, it sulked after a winter outside and never recovered. It is very easy to germinate and grows very fast though.
I have a very small Cordyline indivisa. I'm from Newport News, VA, zone 8a and I was wondering just how hardy Cordyline indivisa is. The temperature has dropped to 19 degrees so far and no damage has occured. currently it is completely covered by 8 inches of snow from the recent blizzard that everyone has been talking about. It appears to be okay, but tonight we are supposed to get our coldest temps of the season; about 15 degrees, and I am getting a bit concerned. If anyone has any info I would be grateful.
I've seen cordyline survive 10f with no protection and O f if completily covered.
The tips of the leaves are turning brown. Does anybody know why this happens? Also, there seems to be conflicting information on what kind of light it needs. The nursery told me bright light, but a lot of Internet sites say partial shade. Should it be kept moist at all times or allowed to dry out between waterings? Thanks for any help.
Scott you didn't mention the size,age or micro-climate of the plant'whereabouts so it is hard to give a professional opinion. Alocasias love a wet,low pH shade to 90% to reach max.coloration.In the sun they will be a different color than in the shade. Tip burn could be from a lack of water,leaf and stem being old and ready to fall off.The plant could be hungry also.Use a 1/2% 20-20-20 sol and if the leaf is large,cut it back to 1' above where the new stem will come out of the old one. In our GH and nursery here in P.R.,I find that to kill an Alocasia you have to work at it.....yet you are not in Puerto Rico.Ah! also keep the temps around the 70-90s E-mail me if you need more help. Est
Does anyone have experience growing Medinilla in Zone 9a? A local nursery has a couple of specimens in a greenhouse, but I would like to grow it in my courtyard. I don't want to waste the money if there's zero chance of it surviving. If it might survive mild Houston winters like the current one, I'll snatch it up tomorrow.
Mark- I have a Medinilla growing outside that has survived for about 5 winters.I give it no special treatment except protecting it from freezing weather. I'm in New Orleans, but it's not in my courtyard! It seems to bloom more in the winter. I cover in with plastic held up by sticks & down by rocks. Good luck with whatever you decide! Steve in NO
If you can protect it from actual freezing temps you can do it. There is at least one that has survived a while in a NooWahlinz courtyaard. Keep it from the direct noonday sun, never let it dry out and feed regularly (when the temps are above 60'F.) with fish emulsion. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK (and fellow Houstonian)
What is the best way to plant Crepe Myrtle seeds?
I just started a bunch last month. I use wet paper towels then place in a plastic bag and seal. They sprout quickly and then I transplant to pots to grow on further. Not a difficult seed to sprout at all. I don't even use bottom heat but it wouldn't hurt and would probably speed up the process if they were about 80 degrees,
any help on how to keep cannas over winter in washington would be very helpfull
Brad, Cannas are considered root-hardy through z7. If you are colder than this, you should dig up the tubors and store them in a cool, dry place.
You should be more specific as to where in Washington you live (what zone)? If it is coastal (8b) then I have found that for most varieties they can be left in the ground all winter, provided you do not cut the stalks down in the fall. Just let them be until spring. Cutting them down allows rain to get into the tuber (through the cut) and rot them from the inside. I have had consistent success doing this with the striped leaf variety and another called "King Kong" (the largest Canna). I have had less succes with the regular red leafed variety, except near the house under an overhang. Does this help?
I have a ficus tree in my courtyard about 6 months ago I threw some palm seeds in there and just lightly covered them ( I think they were majestic and canariensis seeds) anyway I did this once before and like before I now have little sprouting seedlings. The last time I dug them out and planted them into 1 gallon containers. They have struggled and most died, I want to help this set of seedlings survive, any suggestions? (Southern California/ semi to mostly shady courtyard. Thanks, Belinda
Why don't you try planting the seeds in a pot to start with? It's much easier to dump the pot & seperate the seedlings carefully, without dammageing the roots so much.
THIS IS WHERE I FIND ALL THE INFO I NEED ON PALM SEEDS
I have tried in the past. The seeds tend to just germinate faster in the pot that the tree is in......the last time I put the seeds in pots 9 out of 10 didn't even sprout. They got mildew or they just didn't do anything and ijust seems that I can throw them in this big pot and they grow like weeds. HMMMMMMM
I would like to get some pineapple plants that would produce big jucy pineapples any help would be apreciated. Also i would like some banana trees that get at least 6 feet tall and produce good bananas email me.
If you cut the top off a grocery store bought pinapple and let the cut surface dry for a couple of days you can then plant it in soil and it will root. They need hot, bright humid conditions to do well. I have seen fruiting banana plants in the grocery stores and nurseries many times. Cavendish is what you normally eat. There are other tasety fruiting varieties, but you can't tell them by looking at the plant. You have to rely on it being tagged accordingly.
I lived in Hawaii and sent the seeds from my Plumeria tree to my Dad. With a very good green thumb and a lot of patience, 2 grew to maturity, and he gave them to me. I'm living in Pennsylvania (zone 6) now and have had years of enjoyment with my plumerias, along with my other tropicals. For at least 15 years, the flowers have been white with yellow centers, like my tree in Hawaii. Well, this Summer, to my surprise, the blooms were beautiful pinkish-red with orange centers! I did not do anything different this year than I have done in the past. With my experience with Plumerias, and in all my books, I have never known this to happen. Just out of couriosity, What happened?
hi, i have a plumeria that changes color from time to time. The center is orange, yellow or gold. The stripes on the back sometimes shows through the pedals, which makes the inside look striped. Seedlings have a good chance of being different from their mother especially as time passes.
Hi, I planted a Cassia bicapsularis recently (thanks for helping identify it Lou in St. Augustine). I was wondering how large these trees grow? Should I be pruning it in a certain way to achieve a more tree-like appearance? My neighbors have had a similar tree for several years, but they appear to want a more shrub like shape, because they prune it regularly. Thanks, Chuck, Jacksonville FL.
I have one about 4 or 5 years old and it is 8 feet tall. I keep mine pruned like a tree because it is at the beginning of my driveway and I don't want lower branches blocking my view as I pull out. I also try to eliminate crossing branches which requires regular pruning because it sends out a lot of them. I put up with this because it is beautiful when blooming and I like the sulphur butterflies it attracts as a larval source. Good luck. Jack, Palm Beach Gardens,FL
Anybody know anything about the cultivation of cananga odorata, ylang-ylang?
:I am growing ylang-ylang from seeds.I have 6 trees about 40ft high and I get plenty of seeds.my problem is that after they germinate they start to die.they get to about 3in. and then the small leafs dry.I am located in Puerto Rico in a humid area with a lot of sun during the day.Any sugestions? Thanks.
Stephane, what info in particular are you after?
Just a little here to start. I am looking for a cutting of it to add to my garden. What I know so far is that it roots easily from cuttings and blooms soon after establishing a root system. It is tender so must be kept in a container and brought in if you happen to live outside the tropics. The perfume of the flowers is one of the most delightful fragrences I have ever experienced. It is hard to imagine a plant makes that wonderful perfume. I'll be watching for other comments on it and maybe we'll both add it to our collections this year. I've seen it for sale in the Vietnamese nurseries here in Houston, but they are quite expensive ($60 for a 5 gallon plant) I'm holding out for a cutting.
we have them about 15-24" in our nurserys for much less as well as the Ylang Ylang vine Artabotrys uncinata.
I have an orange tree that is an 8ft. high leafy stalk. It was started from a seed about 10 yrs. ago. I would like to get information on how to promote growth from the trunk as opposed to it getting taller.
Hi Dale, While I don't grow citrus indoors, I have grown several types from seed. Some are now fruiting. I prune my citrus several times a year and have since they were about 1 ft tall. Although most sources (books) that I have found recommend NO pruning on citrus, I disagree. I have found pruning to stimulate new growth and I can shape the tre to make it more balanced looking. If you cut your sprout in half, the nutrients do not have to travel as far and with the same root mass, the tree will sprout numerous side shoots. I don't recommend pruning with the onset of cool weather. About a month before you want it to start growing is when you should prune. Best, Jim
I have a ten year old, sixteen ft. tall "Winter Mexican" avocado tree in full sun at a southern location near the house. It blooms every year and sets fruit but the fruit drop at a juvenile stage. I do not overwater, it is on high and dry land, and I fertilize with citrus avocado fertilizer. It is very mild this year and the blooms are already swelling. Any suggestions for keeping the fruit until maturity?
Dear Lou. I live in Daphne, Ala across the bay from Mobile. I have been searching for the mexicola variety for 6mos now. Where did you purchase yours. I do not kknow how to solve your problem of fruit drop, but would like to help with witnessing this on my own over hear. Thanks, Donald.: I have a ten year old, sixteen ft. tall "Winter Mexican" avocado tree in full sun at a southern location near the house. It blooms every year and sets fruit but the fruit drop at a juvenile stage. I do not overwater, it is on high and dry land, and I fertilize with citrus avocado fertilizer. It is very mild this year and the blooms are already swelling. Any suggestions for keeping the fruit until maturity?
The worst enemy of set Avocado fruit is wind! Here in Puerto Rico we understand that our natural trees are bisexual....throwing male flowers and female flowers at different times of the day.This is one oif the reasons for having multiple trees in a planted area....to have male flowers and female flowers from different trees open at the same time.Bees love the pollen of Avocados.....as they both live in the same type of micro-climate.When I lived in Vieques I had 25 trees close and one up at the house.....it also was 10 yrs old and never set fruit......loaded with bees ,but never set fruit.The climatical and wind conditions were perfect.
Thad Magyar, of Santa Rosa Tx grows avocado, I have seen them when in full bloom and have tasted the wounderful fruit. As I remember right Thad said that a moth (yes a moth) pollinates the flowers (inwhich there are thousands of flowers) I also remember him saying that a lot of fruit drop off. If this is natural, I do not know as I do not grow them.
I live in a Z9b area of Britain and want to plant an 8 foot specimen of the above palm, what soil requirements should I know?
They grow like weeds in so. california, they are one of the few arid dry climate palms and also love good drainage. The palophiles around here use 50% sand 50% potting soil for that type of palm as opposed to 50% potting soil 50% small bark nuggets for most all others. If the soil is clay like or not draining, DO NOT dig a grave or hole as you will surely drown it , instead set the palm on 1-2 feet of mix and create a large mound so the water will drain away. mahalo
A well drained, humus enriched, slightly acid soil gives the best results Lee. You will need to find a good warm corner for it - as with most Pheonix, it really does like summer heat and will grow only very slowly in cool locations.
I have a (somewhat) rooted cutting indoors. Should I allow this cutting to go nearly dry this winter or try to keep it relatively moist? It was a cutting that I purchased in Hawaii the spring of 99 (you know the packaged ones for $3.00 in the tourist trap sales areas). I placed it in water hoping to root it that way and only had a few leaves form and fall off after a week or so. No roots formed beyond the 1 mm size white "bumps". I potted the cutting into a soilless medium, watered it, placed it in a clear storage container, and closed it. It has not been watered since but has been very moist. I noticed that mold started to grow on the leaves that were beginning to open (these were touching the lid and subsequently the moisture there). I have removed the pot and it seems to have stale soil but there is resistance when the plant is tugged upon so maybe there are roots finally. Anyway, my question is, put it back into the container to stay warm and moist or leave it out and let it dry? Thanks for all your help. John
I rooted plumeria cuttings last winter indoors and am going through the process now with a cutting I brought back from the Carribbean. I use a redwood bark and lava rock combination, so it is a mix without soil and with very good drainage. I water the cutting every 24 hours; the water flows right through the mix. Last year the cuttings rooted without any problem, and in the Spring I moved them outdoors and transplanted them into a larger pot with the same mix. They grew leaves but did not bloom the first year. I would not recommend letting your mix dry out. Plumeria in Hawaii grow where there is porous (volcanic) soil and frequent rain. Hope you have success!
I have a 3 foot tall Hedychium coronarium whose leaves have shriveled due to cold damage. It has been in a warmer room for a week and the leaves have only gotten worse. Can I cut the stalks back and how far back, ground level or to a leaf node? I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
In Puerto Rico I would cut it back to ground level,but where you are ....leave maybe 6-8" of stem to remember that you have a plant there..Gingers retoon from the Rhizome and not from the stem unless seeding and growing out from there. Good luck.
How is the Austin climate for tropicals? Which plants do best?
That's a pretty broad question. By narrow definition of "tropical", the answer is "almost none". But I assume you mean "tropical-looking". In that case, I can assure you there are plenty of perfectly hardy plants with either the "wet-tropical" or "dry-tropical" looks that do well here. The key limits I've found for many such plants are, oddly enough, the heat and dryness of summer more than the cold of winter. E.g., gingers do very well in moist- summer Houston, but they pretty much wither away every Summer here in the black clay of my area, regardless of how much water I futilely pour down the soil cracks. Also, soil varies *tremendously* from one place to another in Austin, from deep black clay in my yard to solid limestone rock less than 1 mile west of me, so where you live will have a big effect on what does well for you.
In my yard in north-central Austin I've had the following plants
through at least 3 or 4 winters, and some since 1993. I typically
give them no special winter protection, unless it's going below
20F. I also see most of these elsewhere around town, so they're
not rarities that only the dedicated can grow (I have 2 small
children and little time for pampering my plants, even if I had
the desire in the 100F days of summer!). This list ain't
exhaustive, either: Palms and other evergreens:
Sabal
mexicana ("Texas palm")
Sabal X texensis (the "Brazoria
palm")
Sabal minor ("dwarf palmetto", or where
I grew up, just "palmetta")
Butia capitans ("pindo"
or "jelly" palm)
Chaemeraops ("mediterranean
fan palm")
Trachycarpus fortunei ("windmill plam")
Holly ferns
Agave americana
Yucca rostrata and
recurvifolia
Bamboos (3 species)
Satsuma mandarin orange
(the only thing I throw a sheet over when it goes into the low
20s)
Aspidistra ("cast-iron plant"; impervious to
all agents of destruction except direct sun)
Texas mountain
laurel
Great-performing "tropical" perennials: Bananas (do very well here in decent soil, even after it dries out in summer; they never wilt!) Hoja santa (Piper something, "root beer plant"; huge round leaves and up to 9 feet of height each season; best in shade to part-shade) Cannas Honorable mention (i.e., not so good in my yard but others seem to have better luck, probably with better soil and/or more water): Elephant ears (not so well without tons of extra water) Gingers, butterfly and stripes (ditto above) Fatsia/aralia (I see these every where in central and east Austin, but I've killed about 4 so far; there must some secret to getting them established here) Tetrapanax ("rice-paper" plant; ditto Fatsia, though I don't see it as much as fatsia) Aucuba (ditto Fatsia again; mine just sit there and don't grow, year after year) Good luck. If you have specific questions, email me. I know of some good local sources for plants if you want to know where to find them. - Eric E
Hi Eric, If you take the link below you will see Joe Montgomery's Garden, one of the best gardens in Austin. also Bill Baker is the Palm Society of South Texas, chairman and he lives in Austin. I think his email address is listed on the page, if not email me and I will get it to you. Also, I'd like to invite you to the next meeting! A great bunch of people and we have alot of fun!!!! Austin PSST Meeting
Every year, I run into the same problem after bringing my croton plants indoors. The lower leaves always fall off. By the following spring, the plants look ragged. Someone advised me before to gradually reduce the amount of sunlight, before making the indoor transition. I tried this, but the leaves are still falling off. This is occuring even under high-intensity lights. However, I have had to spray for spider mites a couple of times. I am wondering if this is the problem this time.
Alvin Crotons love sun and will florish en shade also. Hit them with 20-20-20- foliar+Vel3 ox/galH2O and remember they love water. Have you seen the red and blacks? Esteban McGrath
Does anyone no the cold tolerance of this tree? It is supposed to be larger and more cold tolerant than C. speciosa which grows here really well. Thanks for the input. John
John, in truth, there's not much diff in the hardiness to cold of the two but C. insignis is slightly hardier--maybe half a USDA zone at most. Also I think you've got it reversed: C. insignis is slightly smaller growing than is C. speciosa.
I have a question concerning a tree that is widely planted in South Florida. Its pink flowers look just like the yellow flowers from a trumpet tree (tabebuia caraiba), except they are obviously pink. This leads me to believe it is the pink trumpet tree. The tree however grows very large unlike the tabebuia caraiba, which only grows to about 15ft. This pink one easily grows to 25ft or even more. Its bark is also quite different and I don't believe it is deciduous. Any ideas as to what it might be? I've only seen it in South Florida and not in Central Florida. Any help would be appreciated. Alexis
Alexis, there are many pink-flowered Tabebuia species--in fact there are probably more pink ones than white or yellow. The one in question might be T. impetiginosa; it is the most widespread species, ranging from northern Mexico to northern Argentina. As a result of this great natural range it is also the most variable species with specimens growing from a max of 30 feet to as much as 100 feet. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
Someone suggested this, but I can't find too much information on this species?
Alexis, I guess it's possible it could be T. pallida but, I think, unlikely. T. pallida is always a SMALL tree--often a shrub; but who knows--there ARE different cultivars of it that seem to vary not only in size of plant but also color of flowers--from pure white to deep pink.
Being from Singapore, I would like to know the growing requirements of the palm in an equitorial environment and how they differ from that in the monsoonal environment of its natural range, N.E. Queensland. Some specific things that I would like to find out about include fertilizer requirements, soil type preference, and effects of the lack of seasonal variations on the developement of the palm. I would also like to know whta are thw pests and diseases that I should look out for. Thanks for any attempts made to answer my queries.
Yeo, Wodyetia is nearly foolproof in a tropical or nearly tropical climate--as long as it is planted in a site with good drainage. It prefers a soil that is slightly acidic in pH but seems to do quite well on unamended southern Florida soils which are rather alkaline. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
I have read about the repuation of Wodyetia being a hardy palm, able to tolerate salt sprays, resistant to lethal yellowing mycoplasm etc. Are there any disease and pest that I should be looking out for? By the way I have found your book to be a good reference. Hope to see a larger section on palms in editions to follow.
Yeo, I know of no pests that are a real problem with Wodyetia. I'm sure there are, but not in the s.e. U.S.--at least that I'm aware of. Thanks for the book compliment. I am working at the moment on an encyclopedia of palms. rlr

.
I've got a few small (1ft. tall) canary island date palms and would like to know if any body out there would have info. as far as how fast they will grow? We have them every where here in Ventura Ca. but up untill this point I,ve never realy paid attention to how fast they grow. Also, I know they will grow wild with virtualy no water (it rains about 13 inches a year here if were lucky) So if anybody out there can give me some stats. on a tree they have, or know of, and weather it has been assisted in growth (fertilizing & reagular watering) or not, I would greatly appreciate it. thanks for any info.
Hi Nick, I have several canarys here in Naples, FL. that I started from seed. They sprouted ~8-91. For the first couple years one grew about 2 ft/yr. At about 4 yr old it started growing about 3ft/yr. It was planted in an old rotted pine stump. The others were planted in sand (our soil), and 5 yrs were about 8ft. Haven't measured them since '96, but they have about 3 ft trunk diameter and are now fruiting. Hope this helps, Jim
Dear Sirs, We are intrested in araucaria excelsa & bismarkia noblis seedlings .We need them in large quantities as we are whole sale suppliers of different plants and seedlings in Pakistan .Please tell us its availability. Also inform us about its price. Looking forward for a favourable reply. Regards Hassan
Hassan this plant(Araucaria excwlsa will germinate very nicely at 25C+ and hates to be shipped when small.Larger(1 m+) will go anywhere,but in your case too expensive the frt. Recommend you plant seed and sell that way or you will be doing yourself in. I have maybe 400 that are 5-10 cm tall if you insist. Esteban McGrath Loresco San Juan,Puerto Rico
I have a 10 gallon common fishtail palm growing in the interior of my home. I have had it for about one year. In the last month it has begun to develop rusty brown powder on all ofthe petioles, rachii, and secondary rachii. The rusty brown powder also heavily covers the outside of new unopened spears. The opened leaves for the most part appear to be lush green,healthy and unaffected, although a couple are beginning to turn yellow and brown. The fuzz can easily be wiped off with a finger or squirted of with vigorous pressure from a hose and reveals normal appearing palm after washed. The same thing happened to another fishtail that I had 2 years ago and it died shortly after rusty fuzz appeared despite washing palm and spraying with malathion. I have about a dozen other palm species growing inside my home and none of them has ever had a similar problem. Can anyone give me any advice as to what is going on? Thanks
I think is is normal and nothing to worry about. I have a fishtail and it has the same brown fuzz. Check around and look at other fishtails, I think you may find they all have it.
I grow about 15 types of caryota(favorite being caryota gigas), most caryotas have some type of fuzz as do numerous types of other palms which are virtually stunning(most caryotas come from the himalayan and china regions and the fuzz is probably natures way of existing in the himilaya's, by providing some amount of warmth or possibly to keep certain pests off from the endemic area they developed from), take a look at the teddy bear palm, dypsis leptochellios, or dypsis lastelliana, both sport a brillant reddish brown fuzzy crownshaft, some palms have spines some have long needles and spines, some have brite red crownshafts, some have large perfectly round lime green leaves, see licuala grandis, johannesteijsmannia magnifica, vershaffeltia splendida, cyrtostachys renda, to name a couple of absolutley stunning indoor tropical palms that can make it, check em out........
I have a hibiscus that I planted 5 years ago. I want to replant to a different spot on my lawn. Is there any special pre-treatment things I need to do first, before digging it out of the ground? I live in So. Florida...thanks for your attention to this matter.
I just transplanted a large hibiscus and after moving it to the new site, I covered the branches with plastic bags that you get from the laundry. It seemed to work well. I left the bags on for about 3 weeks and there was only minimal leaf drop.
Hi Lisa, I also live in So. (western) Fl. If you dig up a hibiscus during the winter, I would recommned pruning to about half its current height. Chances are the sandy soil(?) will fall right off the roots when it is dug up. The less stored energy the plant has to use to keep the leaves alive is that much more for it to produce new roots. Keep it moist but not saturated. And I would NOT fertilize until spring. Best, Jim
Any east coast gardeners have luck with Zauschneria?
Oh! I forgot to tell you I am in zone 5 in western PA
I had luck with Z. garrettii "Orange Carpet" from High Country Gardens. This is the first winter ithad, but it is starting to grow a little. It dies to the ground and only gets to about 6" tall. It bloomed well last year starting in late August.
Hello all - just got a new book yesterday---"Tropica", by Alfred Graff....it is absolutely the best book about tropical plants I have ever seen!! ( except of course our fellow-in-list's " Tropical Look" ) It does have alot of pictures ( 8000 !!!) & had me drooling all day yesterday....now there are at least 20-30 plants that I MUST HAVE !!! Riffle's book does have quite a few that aren't displayed in Graff's, so they make a great pair. Only drawback...mucho $$$$ ( 160$!!) Stephen in New Orleans
Thanks, Stephen. I love being compared to Graf! (Really; i.e., that's NOT sarcasm). --rlr
Where can I get this book and how much is it? Lee, Chester UK
Hate to be rude to 'Tropica'(it took a lot of work) but please don't trust the names there. And to Lee - please buy three copies of Bob Riffle's book and read them all - you will get much more from them (very literate writing, great pictures and good names) than from the tiny images in "Tropica" Derek Burch
I am looking for an araucaria columnaris to buy, does someone have one or a cone? thank you
according to their catalog, pacific treefarms in chula vista, california is selling 5-gallon plants of a colunmaris for mail-order. their phone number is 619-422-2400.
i believe austr hort--an australian seed company sells seed of araucaria columnaris. their web address is www.farrar.com.au good luck.
I'm sure this is a basic question,,,,,,but,,,,,I have several citrus that have taken off last year as well as this year. Now they are beginning to look chlorotic. I followed my regular three month citrus fertilizer routine that gave them a jump start last year after 20 years of just sitting in their pots. So, why are they turning chlorotic now after two good years of growth and fertilizer? Did I add too much fertilizer? Should I add more organic matter? What do these plants need? they have begun to set good fruit and I would like to keep it if at all possible. The trees in question are dwarf varieties of grapefruit, kumquat, and orange. The specific varieties I don't know.
John, I'm not sure what's wrong with them (it would help to actually see them) but if you have had an unusual amount of rain lately, the nutrients (fert) you added could well have been washed away in an untimely manner
John, try 'Epsom Salts' (Magnesium sulphate)watered in around your plants. Aply a gallon to each plant at a dilution rate of one ounce per gallon of water. Many Citrus seem to be prone to magnesium deficiency and even those which are fed with a special citrus fertiliser can suffer from time to time. The magnesium is best applied in early spring when new growth is about to start. I always give this to my Citrus each year.
Thanks for the advice. I will apply some next spring. John
I live in Mesquite Nevada and have a couple palms in my landscape (Mexican palm trees). They have been in the landscape since last March. Right now the frongs seem to be drooping alot and they are still green. Should they have more water or are they getting too much water. How do palm trees like to be watered. Thank you for your help....oh yes should the frongs be trimmed now?
Hi Donna;
With out looking at your palms I'd guess that
there doing fine. It is normal for the leaves to droop down and as
long as they are still green I'd leave them on and would not trim
until next spring.
My Ixora plants are not doing well. The leaves are showing the veins quite prominently. The flower and leaf production is very poor. I have fertilized them and they get watered every other day. Can you tell me what the problem may be. Thanks
Victor, it would really help to know whether these plants are in containers or planted out; and also (especially if planted out)where you/ they are. In any case it sounds like chlorosis, a lack of iron and/or a too high pH, which azalea/camellia fert will cure if used according to directions.
Anyone have any experience with macadamia trees???
I have quite alot of experiance with Macs in N. Calif. The most hardy var. is called Dr. Beaumont that does quite well here and will grow where temps don't drop below 20F. I have a 4 year old tree survive with some damage at 21f. Jeff
Hi Donna, I'm in Naples, Fl. and have trouble with them. I'm about 5 miles from the beach. Several friends of mine have them closer to the beach and they are growing very well. I get a frost almost every year and it appears that they cannot handle any frost. One friend has about 20 different varieties and all have variable quality nuts. Macadamia nuts are far and away my favorite nut. The best advice I can offer is to buy "Mauna Loa" brand nuts. They are great. Jim.
Well, this is quite amazing. I saw a banyan tree in Jacksonville Florida. It is located on the corner of University Blvd and La Playa Dr. It is approximately 30 ft tall and is already extending aerial roots. It is amazing. I was so surprised I almost crashed my car. If you want a picture, I can post one here when my film is developed. Chuck
What is a Banyan tree? Scientific name??? Andy
Ficus benghalensis (Indian banyan/Indian fig) is what some call the Banyan tree, the massive spread of this tree has something to do with the name banyan.
Does anyone know where I could get some Banyan tree seeds. An answer would be very greatly appreciated. Rufus Blackwell @ siliconbasedproductions@yahoo.co.uk
Yes, please post a picture of the banyan tree growing in Jacksonville! I'd Love to see it.
There was quite a large banyan tree or ficus of some sort that had multiple aerial roots at Washington Oaks State Park just south of Marineland for years. Back in the 1980's during one of the freezes it froze almost all the way back. However, the last time I was there it was still growing but it must have come back from the root level and was much smaller than way back in the 1980's. So one in Jax is very probable.
In Reply to: Re: Banyan in Jax. posted by Lou St. Aug, FL on November 07, 1999 at 21:04:45: Some other surprising plant sightings in NE Florida: 1987 a mature, blooming Cattley guava on the grounds in front of an historic Victroian north end of Fernandina. Also a very old 30' olive tree in town next to an old Catholic school (I think it was). More recently: just north of San Jose/Hendricks split, gentleman on right side facing north on old San Jose has huge tree fern, ti plants and some tropical palm that looks like an immature roystonea in his front yard, about 8'. Also in that neighborhood, 30' avocado off Gadsden. Been a little cold there last 2 weeks but hasn't been a bad freeze since '85 - knock on palm wood.
need any and all info on containing an infestation of white flies on my plumeria and Hibiscus. Tried and True formulas appreciated Thanks, larry palmking@concentric.net
I had them bad here in Santa Barbara last year on my 9 Hibiscus plants. Insecticidal soap did not work at all, reluctantly used malathion at double strength. Eradicated 99% of them, now I just blast the plants with water once a week or so and they keep in check. Hope this helps.
I have the same problem, however, the first recipe mix does work just fine! It does not harm the hibiscus at all!! Be advised, though, that Malathion oil will do considerable damage to Hibiscus! I tried it before.. :( Andy Jax, FL
Use a 3oz liquid vel/1 oz cooking oil/1 oz Baking soda(Arm and Hammer) per gal.of mix for maintenance.Spray twice weekly. Try malathion 2.5 oz per gallon H20 every other day until erradicated.If in pots, use Marathon one tsp powder or as recommended.If you have a license, contact your "vegetable farmers " commercial suppliers and they can sell exactly the product you need.Here in Puerto Rico when I was in vegetables the USDA APHSIS PPQ director in my area,Raphael Charneco had the tiny wasps released in my old okra fields to see the effect on the White-fly infestation which was giving us hell.This test was on open fields and we were spraying twice weekly on the new crops as well.In otherwords we were killing the tiny wasps also.Well after 6 mos of cooperation with the PPQ people there was so little infestation that we could count maybe 4-5 (WF)per drip valve (3.35Acres). On an enclosed area ,I am sold on the wasps and they are readily available!Get a saleman's recdcomendation and buy twice the amount he recommends! I our green house we use Marathom in the soil and are going to increase the wasps for Jasminum and Gardenias.Those little white flys really can weaken the plants and if you don't take immediate care....they will cause the debility of the plant to the effect that any thing will kill it. Suerte Esteban
Does anyone know the minimum temperatures of Pandanus species? I'm looking into P. pygmaeus, P. purpurescens, P. montanus, P. utilis, and P. baptistii. Would shade help or be detramental to strong growth? Any suggestions would help. Thanks, John
John, they are damaged by 30'F.--all of them of which I am aware. They'll survive in semi-shade but grow best (and strongest) in full sun.
Hi, I bought a tree early this summer at home depot. It was simply labeled "cassia". I know that the cassia genus are the shower trees or whatever they go by. Anyway, they said that this tree is hardy in Jacksonville (my microclimate is 9b). Is this true? Are there any cassia hardy in Jacksonville? This thing has really taken off, and is flowering like crazy now. Will it survive the winter? Thanks, Chuck, jax fl.
Chuck, Most likely the variety that you bought was a "cassia bicapsilaris" This grows to a small tree here in Northeast Florida. Before the severe freezes of the 1980's there were many cassias here in Northeast Florida and they were very popular. They had always been hardy here up until that time. They again are gaining popularity. Luckily it has been ten years since we had those devastating freezes. They all died during that time even here by the ocean. What part of Jax do you live in? I would think you have more of a chance of damage if you live on the westside or northside, but only during the worst winters we experience. Good luck!
Chucj, yes, there are Cassia species hardy in JAX. If you can describe the leaves and flowers (and do either emit a fragrance?) I (or someone here) can probably i.d. the species and confirm whether it is hardy in northern Fl or not. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
Hi, thanks a lot. It's good to know that whatever it is is probably hardy in Jacksonville. I'm out of town right now, so I will have to save the specific ID of the plant for a little while. Thanks for the help
Can the Royal Poinciana survive Oklahoma Weather? I live in "Green Country" (about 45 miles south of Tulsa).
Hi Pat, If it is any consolation, I have lost several young potted Poincianas due to an unexpected cold spell here in Naples, Fl. Also, while absolutely beautiful while in bloom, they are one of the messiest trees I know. All those blooms turn into pea pods about 1 foot long and hundreds of them cover the ground. The tree is also weak-wooded and old limbs are always littering the lawn. Don't get me wrong, it's a pretty tree, but that beauty has its price. Best, Jim
I read your e-mail and I was recently in Costa Rica and fell in love with these trees. I would love to own one or more of these trees. Do you know where I could buy one of these trees? Thanks, Laure in Houston, TX
Pat, in a word, "no." Royal poinciana is iffy even in the warmest parts of south Texas. Go for Caesalpinia giliesii with yellow and red flowers, a shrub almost hardy in OK. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
I grow C. giliesii in Baltimore, MD (7A) without problems. My shrub has been in the ground for at least 5 years and blooms each summer.
Hey all! I'm going to Puerto Rico for a week soon and was wondering if anyone has any good recommendations as to good plant/garden spot to visit? I don't really know anything about Puerto Rico yet so any ideas are GREATLY appreciated!
Check out the information at Where2Stay in the Caribbean - take the Island link at the top to Puerto Rico. Where2Stay Caribbean Info
The Botanical Gardens in Rio Piedras are supposed to be excellent (have never been there). Also, seek out Esteban from this forum. He has a ownderful tropical plants nursery and the plants I;ve ordered from him are superb! Marcelo
This past spring, I acquired a plumeria seedling It grew to about 1 foot. Someone told me that it can take 3-5 yrs for such a seedling to bloom. Is this true? If so, where do I obtain plants that are blooming age? Does any ship through the mail?
Alvin, try this website: http://www.exoticplumeria.com/list.asp They sell mature specimens of Plumeria, from 3-5ft (or more) tall. Good luck.
Does anyone have a clue where I could purchase/ order/ import fresh guanabanas for photographing? I have searched the web aimlessly - PLEASE HELP!
Guaynabana is not allowed entry into the US mainland ....Give me an address and I can send you some pics(Annonae muricata) Saludos, Esteban
I am situated in the UK - will this make a difference?
When I was in the UK, I noticed the fresh fruits could be obtained in the West Indian/African markets just a stone's throw from the Brixton tube stop in Brixton, south London. Alternatively, if you reside in the Manchester area, there is an Asian-run grocery in Oxford Rd. (can't recall the exact name) which sells an amzing variety of Annonaceous fruits, the custard apple and soursop amongst them. Happy hunting! Marcelo
You see Mr.Platt....if Marcelo says they are in the U.K....Count on it.He is extremely observant! Esteban
I am looking for a wholesaler or grower of cycas revoluta-I also have thourasii seed available
We grow them in Puerto Rico and have about 200 specimen plants available now as well as smaller sizes. How many are you looking for? Esteban Loresco
I would like to ask a question. I have four beautiful cycas revoluta plants obtained from my mother's yard in Southern Louisiana. These have been growing nicely with bringing them indoors for the coldest part of the winter. The first to shoot out new leaves this past spring has started to have droopey fronds instead of a nice vase shape. My theory is that it is trying to produce a cone or seeds? What do you think? How long should this last? Will it continue to shoot out new fronds each spring while in flower?

Try Lynn McKamey's Rhapis Gardens she also Wholesales cycas revoluta.
Hey, anyone out there know if a Royal Poinciana will grow in the Las Vegas area, assuming I've got the proper irrigation? Thanks!!
Dave, the royal poinciana (Delonix regia) is much too tender to cold tot survive in LV. The photo Gary posted is of Caesalpinia pulcherrima, aka "pride of Barbados" which is marginal in LV, used as an annual or sometimes- returning perennial. Caesalpinia gilliesii is hardy in LV and almost as nice as C.p., but has mostly yellow flowers as opposed to the red of C.p. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK

: Hey, anyone out there know if a Royal Poinciana will grow in the Las Vegas area, assuming I've got the proper irrigation? Thanks!!
Hi Dave;
You might try Caesalpinia gilliesii, it is quite
cold hardy.
C.pulcherrima (pride od Barbados)also might work
it is more of a shrub, but the flowers are beautiful!
We first met Robert Riffle through the internet when he found our Tropical Attitudes Gardening Forum and began sharing his immense wealth of knowledge. That was in 1997 when The Tropical Look was still a collection of files on his computer. In 1998 his wo rk was published, and in 1999 he received well-deserved recognition when the American Horticultural Society chose The Tropical Look for the 1999 Book of the Year Award.
Robert is now working on two more books. One will be devoted entirely to palm trees (always our personal favorite here at Digital Raingardens), and tropical landscaping will be the topic of the other. Somehow, Robert finds time to fit in other activities. He participates in several gardening message boards, gives frequent tours at the Me rcer Arboretum in Houston, travels often to seek out new specimens of his favorite plants or gardening events, and occasionally appears as a public speaker. During the summer of 1999 he has been a most welcome guest at the Palm Society of South Texas meet ings.
After you read The Tropical Look and look through the images in this
garden gallery, you will realize that he is truly a garden guru. His
primary motivation for this gallery, however, is to pay tribute to
Alton Marshall, a gardener and friend whom Robert admired very much.
Alton's garden no longer exists, except in the memories of friends and
here in cyberspace. Robert's knowledge of plants and outstanding
ability to describe them in a meaningful way is rivalled only by his
skill as a photographer . We are honored be part of Alton's tribute
and to have Robert for a friend and colleague.
Gary & Jana
Meiser
Has anyone heard of Polyalthia longifolia, the "mast tree"? It seems to be a rather rare plant in the New World troics, though it ts fairly common in the tropical Far East. Thanks, Marcelo
Yes, Marcelo, have heard of it and seen it. There are a couple thriving at Fairchild Tropical Garden in Miami. It is related to (in the same family as) the cherimoya, believe it or not, and is a sacred tree to Hindu peoples in India and other Asian countries. The cultivar P. longifolia 'Pendula' is the one usually planted nowadays because of its very narrow (fastigiate) growth form. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
Thanks, Robert, for the insightful reply. Ah, so that means it is of the same family as the ilang ilang (Cananga odorata). Would you know if the mast tree produces noteworthy blooms, either in the manner of aesthetics or fragrance? Thanks again. Marcelo
Yes, Polyalthia is in the same family as Cananga and, yes, the blossoms of the former are fragrant but not nearly as strong as those of the ylang-ylang; they are also small and an unexciting yellowish green in color, but give way to attractive small yellow fruits.
Hi: I read an old message about this plant, but could do with some help. Should I keep it constantly watered? I noticed I'm loosing whole branches which just shrivel up and drop off. Also should I mist it every day? It faces a South window, but the air is a bit dry. Also - big problem - it came to me complete with little ants, which have also infested my ficus and given it scale. Help......
Keep your China Doll well watered but not wet! Keep out of direct sun light and keep plant warm and out of drafts. As for the ants? Check with your local garden center.
Thank you!
I would greatly apprieciate any info on this unusual tree. Planting suggestions,fertilization,care.ect.I live in S.Fla.so I know it will do well here.
Paul, I have talked to many banana experts at plant shows in FL and they all agree it is a very difficult plant to grow. The ph has to be just right or the plant will be too white and will not survive. Also the sun will burn the white portions of the leaves. Everyone I spoke to that has tried growing one has lost it. I have 20 different banana varieties myself and would love to try to grow one sometime but the price for an Ae Ae is very expensive $75-$100. "Going Bananas" in Homestead have them but you have to get on the waiting list. Don and Katie are very knowledgeable and may be able to give you some growing tips. Good luck if you decide to try growing one.
I have read that there is a varigated variety of musa basjoo. Has anyone heard of or seen this plant? Would this plant be easier than Ae Ae?
Here are some tips: 1. Give only morning sun or use shade cloth to prevent burning. 2. Use only fish emulsion and seaweed extract for fertiliser. Remember, the white parts do nothing for plant growth, so if the plant has 50% white it will grow 50% slower than the green varieties. Other than that, I see know difference in growing this variety than any other.
Tom, You are the first person I've ever heard from that made it sound so easy to grow an Ae Ae. What kind of soil is yours growing in? Maybe I'll try one after all. Where did you get yours?
I bought mine from a local nursery in Los Angeles. The mother plant was neglected, so I salvaged the pups. I have 2 Ae Ae pups growing in Cactus mix. I have other bananas that grow well in 50% Orchid mix and 50% washed sand. Either will work well. Just don't let the Cactus mix dry out too much. It's hard to re-wet peat moss. The Orchid mix (which contains fir bark)and sand is much easier to re-wet. With these two soils you have good drainage and good air space. They seem to like the Fish Emulsion and Sea Weed extract the best. Chemical fertilizers and even organics such as blood meal seem to harsh. Give morning sun. The best conditions probably might be full sun under 25 or 50 % shade cloth though. This would simulate conditions where it's partly cloudy most of the day.
I bought one 1.5 years ago form Stokes and it's been doing fine here in SF. Granted, it's been indoors in a large pot and gets morning sun only. I put it outside for the summer, whereupon it pretty much stopped growing new leaves but the old ones still look great. It's about to come inside for the winter again. I'd give it a try and just be sure you have soil a little on the acid side (mine's anywhere from pH 5 to 6).
B. Peters, Hey, if your Ae Ae ever sprouts some pups, I'd be interested in buying one. I've been growing bananas indoors for about 5 years. I started in NY (and got fruit) and now live South San Francisco in a place with huge south facing windows. I have a dwarf Cavendish that is doing incredibly well here. Most Bay area microclimates are too cold at night to keep bananas bananas happy. They don't take too kindly to nights lower than 60 degrees or so and prefer days warmer than most here. It might grow faster for you if you keep it indoors even though the available light will be less.
Jeff: Thank you for the valuable information. You saved me $75 worth of future heart-ache.
We are growers in Puerto Rico and can propagate this cultivar on our farm.If someone can get me the "seed" or corm or whatever you call it in English ,I can propagate them and supply them to everybody @ a very reasonable price.We grow many types of bananas for consumption(Nino,,Manzano,Gran Nain ,Cavendish Dwarf,Mafafo(Orinico) and Maricongo platanos.We also grow the ornamentals for market and in conjunction with Mark Coopman who is "Mr Tropical" in Iowa, the yellow flowering Chinese variety.
can you tell me anything about this facinating plant. what temperature can it be grown in and does it need any special treatment
It is a beautiful plant that did quite well for me until a really bad infestation of spider mites... It did not live dispite desperate measures to save it. It was in a pot. I will try it in the ground next time :)
IT is listed as hardy to zone 5 with mulch
I have found a lot of interest from folks who are interested in trying to germinate a coconut. I have viable coconuts in my yard here in the Keys that I'm willing to send to people who will pay postage. I've sent a bunch already but there are always more! E-mail me if you are interested.
What tropical plants can I grow in Houston in very heavy clay soils? I have some minor soil amendments in the top 3 or 4 inches, but down lower the soil is terrible and I cannot add more because it will be too high and heavy rains will drain into the house.
Edwood, Below is a link to Robert L. Riffle's Image Gallery. Lot of tropical, subtropical and tropical looking, plants can be grown in Houston. As far as your soil goes, you might want to check out Mike Burnett's "A Gulf Coast Garden" found at http://iconx.com/index.shtml You could email or post a message on "The Gulf Breeze Message Board" at http://iconx.com/html/the_breeze.html Hope this helps.
What fertlizer should be used to fertlize palm tree? How ofter should they be fertlized?
Frank, Where are y'all from, this would help. I fertilize about three times during the growing season, with a slow release fertilizer 15-5-15 with micros.
Does anyone know anything about this tree? We saw some at a nursery in Corpus Christi, but can find no information as to their hardiness or characteristics. If you have any experience or knowledge about this tree, please let us know. Thanks.
Hi Pam; The Hawaiian white hibiscus (arnottianus) is a native to Hawaii, and unlike most other hibiscus, it is very fragrant! Very tropical in its requirements. Might do best as a potted plant and brought indoors when temps get below 40F. Where did you find it, (Turners)?
I found it at Fox's Nursery on Staples. They were very big trees--95 gallon size. They said they are very fast growing and grow to be quite tall. The bloom is said to change colors during the day. Is this the same thing you are thinking of, this Hawaiian white hibiscus (arnottianus)?
What Fox has is a Hibiscus tiliaceus. There are a few growing here in Corpus and in Portland. In our zone you can grow them as a returning large shrub if we have a hard freeze. The flowers are pale to deep yellow and change to reds by the end of the day. Need lots of moisture to look good. Can grow to a large tree and are fast growers.
Hi anyone: I have three acres here in NW oregon I want to plant in Palms and experiment with. Does anyone know of nurserys where group of 50 or more could be found? Im in the Portland area and am wondering if there is a closer location than San fransisco...........
You can get palms from time to time through the Pacific Northwest Palm and Exotic Plant Society. In addition to the annual plant sale in May in Vancouver BC, palms are often also available for sale or trade at PNWPEPS meetings. (Most meetings are held in BC but there are also some meetings in Washington and Oregon.) Mail ordering palms is probably the only other way besides this to obtain a wide range of species for testing. However, if you want them all at once, now, I think Jana's advice is the best you're going to get! And if you need further advice (i.e. about what species are worth trying) you are welcome to join us at the Northwest palms discussion board: http://www.insidetheweb.com/mbs.cgi/mb40077
Well, if Gary and I had any influence at all with our buying habits back in our Oregon days, hopefully the answer is "YES!" The best palms we purchased came from Portland Nursery (the one on Division). Maybe the name was Portland Greenhouse. Even Home Depot carried palms up there, but get them when they are fresh off the truck. And know what you're looking for. You're not likely to find anyone at a place like Home Depot who can identify a palm that's labeled "foliage". I'd wager a guess, though, that if you find a place with 50 palms, you'd be wiping out their inventory. For a quantity like that, a good nursery could make a special order for you. Oregon definitely needs more palms! Good luck.
I have purchased a white bird of paradise, about 8 ft tall and want to plant it in my back yard. (North Padre Island). What are the optimum conditions? Any advice would be helpful. thanks.
Lori: Strelitzia nicolai, should do well on Padre Island. We have two. One is planted in full sun, the other receiving about 80% sun. You might want to amend your soil, by adding some organic matter. Feed when young to push to full size, then cut back. Gunter Schmidt, has one growing out in Ingleside by the Bay (away from the water) and it flowered this year after planting it about three years ago. Both of ours flowered this year, after 2 years. Both planted from 5 gallon pots @ about 3 feet tall. One is over 10 feet while the other about 7 feet. There are some in Corpus that are 20 feet tall!
I live in Southeast Florida. A Chinese Fan Palm that we planted in our backyard is growing too well, it is spreading out too far and taking over our backyard. Short of removing it, can its bottom fronds be cut off thereby stopping the bottom portion of the palm from covering anymore grass as well as preventing the bottom fronds from touching shrubs and covering them up. I'm pretty sure that I can remove the bottom fronds but how will the plant look?
They tend to do that :-) Bottom fronds can be cut off without problems, and I think your best bet is to cut one at a time, take a few steps back, and check whether you like the looks of it. (and then either continue cutting or not) Hope this helps, Maren, Hilo, HI, zone 11
does anybody know of a mail-order sorce for talauma hodgsonii and exbucklandia populnea that will ship for a reasonable fee to the west coast?
I have been in touch with Pacific Tree for about four years and they say they are getting it but so far no luck. Any other source for this tree or bud wood to graft on magnolia root stock.
George, Pacific Tree farms lists it: http://www.kyburg.com/ptf/Default.htm PACIFIC TREE FARMS
thanks for your response--however, even though the plant is listed in their catalog--they do not really have the plant available--they have been unsuccessful with trying to layer from their one mother plant. have you or anyone else had any experience growing it???? i am interested in growing plants from temperate and subtropical parts of the sino-himalaya in my zone 8-b/9-a garden any suggestions for other plants??? thanks.
I'm going to try and clone a piece. Kew doesn't have any seeds in their seedbank. The national arboretum has one thanks to President Bush (a gift from China).
What are the best palms to grow in Brunswick, GA. We are located between Savannah and Jacksonville,FL. I know the basic cabbage palm and Butia, but what are some more exotic palms that are marginally hardy here, zone 8b-9a.
I would go with: Sabal (minor and palmetto) Rhapidophyllum hystrix Chamaerops humilis Trachycarpus Butia capitata Phoenix canariensis Washingtonia filifera Cycas revoluta (cycad)
Rick, If you want to see what you can grow visit the SE Palm & Exotic Plant Society (SPEPS) website. On the photo page are many of the palms that can be grown in your area. Also check out the BAMBOO FARM page. SPEPS has planted many palms at the Bamboo Farm in Savannah which used to be a USDA introduction and testing station. We have quite a few members , unfortunately not many on the coast! Hope this helps, Donald Coleman Waynesboro, GA zone8
what would be the proper way to plant some sago palm seeds? i live in a coastal texas climate and have between 500-600 seeds that are not dried out yet!
Everything you need to know about Sago palm seed can be found at www.sagopalms.com
Can anyone help me? I'm trying to name a LARGE tree is saw last year in southern Brazil. The tree was a mass of flowers ranging in color from almost white to lavender to purple. I only saw the tree from a distance and usually while mobile, but, the flowers were quite large resembling a Brunfelsia maybe 4-6" across each. The tree towered over the vegetation and appeared to be ligtly foliated, like they are semi-decidous. The tour guide gave me the name but I can not find my notes where I wrote it down. I believe she said Tabebuia but I can't remember the species. Anyone have any idea? I would like to try this plant in So. Cal. but I need to be able to locate seed or plants and it helps to have a name. Thanks for any leads.
John, sounds much more like Tibouchina than it does a Tabebuia--although there are some white- flowered tabs. both genera are native to Brazil, but Tibouchina is almost endemic there .... Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
Can anyone tell me where I could buy Clerodendrum thomsoniae plants? They seem quite hard to find.
You might try Glasshouse Works. http://www.glasshouseworks.com/ They are offering a variegated form. I got my plant from Logees Greenhouses, but you have to request their catalog. They _do_ have two other clerodendrums online at http://logees.com/ You will find a picture of my plant on my greenhouse website at: http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Jungle/1436/ Hope this helps. --Albert
Lousiana nursery has offered it previously--you might want to contact them.
Can anyone tell me where I could order breadfruit plants?
Alvin, as Gary pointed out, the breadfruit is extremely cold sensitive. There's no way it will like ANY season of southern CA--it's impossible to grow well in the warmest parts of Miami, and is only marginally successful in Key West!
Breadfruit grow very well in the Keys where I live to dispute some peoples opinions. I can produce the photos to prove it.
Frankie`s Nursery on Oahu has them. They`re not on the web, but you can call them at(808)259-8737. They are very cold sensitive! They become very unhappy under 60 degrees even for short periods of time. Good luck!
I have a friend who's interested in moving his plumeria inside over the winter months in the hope that it won't lose its leaves. Has anyone tried this? Will a plumeria hold its leaves if kept indoors near a good light source? Thanks!
When I lived in Hawaii, I sent seeds from my Plumeria tree to my Dad. Having a great green thumb, and lots of patience (as it takes forever by growing it from seed), 2 grew to maturity, and he gave them to me. I live in Pennsylvania now, zone 6 and have had them for 25 years. I put them out in the Spring when nights have become steadily warmer. I water them with plant food with the highest middle number, as recommended by the folks at Koolau Farmers in Kaneohe, Hawaii. The leaves become full and lush. In early Fall, I bring them in. They have grown into rather big trees over the years, so I can't take them upstairs where it is the sunniest, so they stay downstairs where it's darker but warmer. They do loose some leaves, but this is normal. I water them sparingly over the winter, and in early Spring I start fertilizing them again. This helps to insure blooms. Unfortunately, in zone 6, our growing season is shorter than more southern locations, but my most mature trees bloom all Summer. You don't have to transplant Plumerias very often. Hang in there, trust me, when they bloom, it will be well worth the wait. Good luck!
I've been growing plumerias for about 4 years and have to move them inside in the winter because of where I live. They will lose all their leaves no matter what you do. It's just part of their cycle. In fact, during the winter months they really don't need any care at all; maybe a drink once a month, but that's it until spring. Make sure the plants are moved inside if the temp. is expected to drop into the mid to upper 30's. I nearly killed one a few years ago from a light overnight frost in October.
Hi Irene, I have several small Frangipani at my home and take care of several large ones at work. They all lose their leaves during the winter here in so. Fl. They are beautiful in bloom and with leaves. Jim
No matter where they are located, they will loose their leaves. Even in Hawaii they are deciduous. Moving it indoors (unless you are not in a place where it would be hardy) would not help any. Actually, it can cause a set back in it's growth. Have your friend leave it where it is.
The only commonly grown plumeria that doesn't lose it's leaves is Plumeria obtusa. In my opinion, the best plumeria with glossy green leaves and large predominantly white flowers with the strongest fragrance. If winter temperatures are warm enough, the stay evergreen, however if subjected to cold temperatures they shed their leaves like regular plumerias.
One of my two banana trees has suddenly split its terracotta pot into two pieces...while it's held together nicely at the moment with giant tie straps ('till it cools down, anyway) I'd like to know if this is common for bananas and other tropicals to split their pots...if so, is there a way to prevent it? Or an ideal pot size that will accommodate them comfortably? The bananas in question are about 8-10' tall now, growing in pots that are roughly 2' cubes.
Although it is possible to keep the roots constricted, most of the larger growing bananas do better in really big pots since the rhizome can exert a lot of pressure on the pot sides. 2ft cubes are just barely big enough for the smaller growing species such as velutina, coccinea and ornata. The larger forms are best given 30" or bigger containers. These are big plants requiring lots of root room in order to reach their full potential.
I've recently bought a fragipani tree and planted it in a relatively sunny spot. Do they like sun? Also, is the fragipani also referred to as a "plumeria"? Also, I've planted quite a number of lichi trees from seed, which produce an incredible-tasting fruit if you've never had them. Will I have to manually cross-polinate? Anybody know if bees will like lichis at all? They're just shoots now, but I want to do everything well from the start since they're not exaxctly native to Southern California, though I do have a redwood tree which seems to be doing OK...
I have many lichi seeds but I am having problemas at making them develop. How did you manage to do it?
Fragipani and plumaria are one in the same. Your lichi seedlings should survive here in S. CA, However flowering and fruiting are a whole different story. Your seedlings could take 15 years or more to fruit even under ideal conditions. That`s why its always better to buy a grafted cultivar like "brewster". You`ll not only have a chance of earlier fruiting but you`ll also be sure the fruit will be good. You never know with seedlings. Lichi trees are from southern China which has warm wet summers and cool dry winters, the opposite of S. CA. This is why its so hard to get fruit here. Plant in acid soil, keep it well watered and fertilized (acid) during the growing months and give it lots of summer showers with your hose and who knows? Good Luck!
thanks a lot!
Is it true you need to dry out the cuttings from a plumeria tree before planting it? If yes, how long do you dry it?
I have let them dry out for several days and then planted them in containers and never lost one yet. That is the nice thing about plumeria. It is hard to kill them. I have also rooted cuttings in water and that is also been successful for me.
How do you cut off and replant banana suckers. ie dwarf Cavendis
Hi Dave,
I would use a sharpshooter type shovel and seperate the offshoot
from the parent when the sucker is at least 1/2 as tall as the
mature shoots. Cut straight down so as to make the cut as clean as
possible and be careful to include some roots on the new plant.
If
you cut them too early, they will be slow to establish.
Plant
with good soil around the new cutting and fertilize and water
regularly. In no time you will have a new clump.
: How do you cut off and replant banana suckers.
A fellow from B.C. once told me about something called Japanese Banana Palms ( I think). Apparently they will survive to -10 Farenheit and are hard to kill. Anyone know anything about these? Where could I get seeds?
The proprietor of Tropic to Tropic propagates Musa basjoo, the so-called "Japanese Textile Banana", tho it is not a native of Japan but China. Seeds may be hard to come by but small starts are not. It can be had in both Canada and the USA, as well as in Europe. It is cultivated on the Ryuku (Liu Chiu) Islands for both its small seedy bananas, and for the fiber, which is harvested and woven to make fine kimonos. It is also cultivated in its native China as far north as Gansu! (first province due south of the Gobi desert, and extremely poor inland province). It grows beautifully even as far north as Vancouver. My property in Seattle is really too shady for it but it does remarkably well anyway; it is surprisingly adaptable.
Altho it wasn't my question, I'd like to thank you for your interesting reply. I've learned something new again today
It's probably Musa basjoo, the Japanese fiber bamboo. As with ALL bananas, the leaves will be damaged and die off with any temps much below freezing but with this one the root (corm) will survive temps at or even below 0'F., especially if mulched. Robert Lee Riffle, author of the award winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
I don't know about in the US but seed of Musa basjoo is often very difficult to get hold of and most plants are either micro-propped or grown from divisions. To date M. basjoo is considered to be the hardiest, not only tolerating temperatures down to minus 16C (although at these tmeperatures all top growth is killed), but also revelling in comparatively cool summer heat where the ideal range is from 22C - 30C. Much above this and growth slows down. Another Musa from the eastern Himalayas may be about to take the crown in terms of hardiness - M. hookeri, which according to some reports, regularly withstands bitter conditions and grows bigger faster producing almost passably edible fruit. It is more colourful in leaf too. Quite a few of us in the UK and US are growing this for the first time, so it will be a few years before we can prove or disprove any claims.
I'm currently growing a small collection of various bananas (in San Antonio) I'd love to find a M. hookeri. Any suggestions?
Need info on growing these palms in the US Don't know if we have a shipping shock problem or these Palms do not grow well here. We have them in a green house and we live in South Florida - so we have a tropical surroundings thank you
Peggy: I live in S.Fla. and was very interested in this beautiful palm. What scared me away from it was I was told that you could lose it with one quick cold snap. If you were to keep it in a pot, you could always bring it in, but I had a perfect place for it to be planted outside. I've since went with a Chamberyronia Maccocarpa so as to get some red color.
Peggy, the palm needs strong light (to keep the color of the crownshaft), a rich humusy soil AND WATER; FTG has one (or did this spring) in a conatiner in the pond near the front gate. You can't overwater the thing! Robert Lee riffle, author of the award-winning book, THE TROPICAL LOOK
I have 2 large and beautiful sago palms in yard in south florida, that have fallen victim to a local outbreak of scale bugs. Should I try to have them sprayed to cure problem or is it just to likely to return. What is best remedy. Your help is appreciated. Thanks
The cycad aulacaspis scale, Aulacaspis yasumatsui Takagi, has
spread throughout a large area of southern Miami,
attacking
cycads grown as ornamental plants. The species was originally
described on cycads in Southeast Asia
(Takagi 1977) and was
probably accidentally introduced into Florida. So far, the cycad
aulacaspis scale has been
observed only on plants of the cycad
family (Cycadaceae).
You can find out about your scale problem at this University of Florida link.
Mike Burnett
I have a tree fern that I want to transplant, the trunk is 2 metres high and well established. Is it easy to transplant and how do I go about it! Thanks.
The most common treeferns in cultivation are either Dicksonia or Cyathea. It would be a good idea for you to find out which is which. Dicksonias can survive with most of their roots cut off; Cyatheas, on the other hand, need to be transplanted with a rather large root ball. I would trim off alot (perhaps all) of the fronds to make up for the root loss. They will need a huge amount of water for seeral months after the transplanting operation.
Most tree ferns transplant easily. Is this a species that has a good mass of roots around the base or not? With a nice mass of roots around the base it shouldn't be hard. I've seen them in the wild kicked over and uprooted, growing on, bending up and rooting along its side. Give plenty of water as they are almost impossible to rot with too much water unless you put them underwater! Roy Lent
I have a sago palm in my home, and recently in the last 3 months it has sprouted 3 extremly long prongs from the center which have grown to almost 3 times the size of the rest of the plant. I cut them off because they started to turn yellow. Now the plant is starting to sprout new prongs again, is this normal and what should i do when they are fully sprouted? thank you Joseph Patota
As far as I know the "sago palm" is a cycad and may be trying to produce cones. Cycads are conifers related to the pines. Roy Lent
I'd be very keen to here of any actual minimum temps. that Trachycarpus fortunei has survived, and for what period the cold lasted. Here in England we regard them as hardy to about -15 degrees celsius when mature. Also, any min temps. for Musa basjoo?
Here in England we regard them as hardy to about -15 degrees celsius when mature. Also, any min temps. for Musa basjoo? Musa Basjoo: I was told to slide a length of plastic plumbing pipe over the trunk,after the leaves have died and fill the pipe with dry leaves
Trachycarpus fortunei is likely to survive any amount of cold that winters in the UK are likely throw at us. Certainly it is hardy here to minus 12C without showing any signs of frost damage and is reputedly hardy down to around minus 15C. They do suffer from cold winds however and unless in a sheltered spot, the leaves can become badly damaged. A slightly less hardy, but better option is the smaller leaved, but delightful T. wagnerianus, it seems to withstand cold winds with far less resultant damage. Musa basjoo is hardy down to minus 10C although unless protected, the pseudo-trunk will be killed back at these temperatures. However, the rhizome is remarkably tough and persistent, sending up new shoots as soon as warmer weather arrives. Ideally you should try to protect the 'trunk' by loosely wrapping it in several layers of hessian and then an outer envelope of bubble wrap. The leaves will be killed in most winters, but can be lossely folder over the growing point and tied into place in order to prvent winter wet penetrating down into the hessian. Once danger of frosts have passed, remove the insulation, cut away the old, dead leaves and new grow should start to reappear from the top of the 'trunk'. This way, the plant will continue to grow, and make a very tall,impressive specimen. In the UK, flowering only occurs where the 'trunk' is retained since the growth needs about 18 months to mature. Fruits by the way are hard, fibrous and inedible.
T. fortunei has survived to -10 F here in Albuquerque, NM. Temperatures here only get that cold once every 20 years or so, and normally only at most 10 nights go below 20 in the average winter (except for parts of the city in the Rio Grande valley- which are typically more than 10 degees colder than the rest of the city). Sometimes they do show frost damage. They consistently show no damage between 5 and 10 degrees, even if the daytime temp doesn't get above freezing. Overall a very hardy palm , the only palm with a trunk we can consistently grow here (except the more hardy takil- so far unavailable to the majority of people). Good Luck! Chris/ 7b
I've scanned all the previous questions about yellowing sago palms. Is the general consensus that the yellowing is due to overwatering or is it a heat problem? I live just north of Dallas in Plano and don't want to lose these beauties!!
Go to www.sagopalms.com and read all about care and culture of Cycas revoluta. You hopefully will be able to figure out what is wrong. Is this a newly acquired plant or one you've had? Generally, water throughly when the soil is almost dry. They usually love heat.
I have a 2 year old Banana tree that has a baby tree and would to know how to separate these and also how to prune back these trees before taking up for winter. I live in Arkansas so they will freeze if left outside. Thanks Imogene Glover
A 2 year old banana plant (they're not really 'trees') in Arkansas may not be very far along in size. In the wet tropics a 2 year old plant would have flowered, fruited and be only an offshoot by now. If the rhizome of the offshoot is as big as 2 fists it probably will survive separation. It can be quite a bit smaller with plenty of care but the bigger it is the better off the new plant will be. If the leaves on the offshoot are very narrow bladed don't separate. To cut it off just cut the narrow neck between it & the mother rhizome. If the mother plant shows absolutely no signs of flowering, lop it off just below the lowest leaves. This will give a long psuedostem thus lots of stored water & sugars, plus some preotection from rot. Store in a dry place. Do not attempt to save any roots; just trim them off. If you do remove the offshoot, pot it up and find a place it can continue growing over the winter.
I saw this amazing Cordyline called 'Black Witch' with long, wide purple-black leaves--I'm not sure whether it was C. terminalis or C. australis because it was highly unusual and I couldn't see the trunk--but it was sure interesting! Does anyone know any more about it, and perhaps a mailorder source? Thanks.
Mike this name bounces around...and changes from deealer to deasler,but if you are referring to C.terminalis that has leaves up to 60cm X 10-15 cm and is the color of dried blood....or a very dark burgandy.....we have it in our nursery.Of all the C.trminalis it is the quickest to revert to the expected color. Esteban
I believe this is the ti plant I have been looking for. Did you find a mail order source? Would you share that info with me? Mahalo and aloha
I've gotten two Sago Palms from a friend and they are about two and three feet high. They were knocked dowm and broken off at the base next to the ground. If I plant them about one inch into the ground will they come back? Both palms have young leaves on them and have been out of the ground for at least three to four days. Will that matter or are the palms history?
Hi Debbie, I have tried several methods. The one that works best for me in southern Fl. is cut all leaves off right down to the trunk or stem. place the trunk about 4" into the ground (or pot) and water in well to remove air pockets. Shade is best, some sun may be ok, full sun is bad. I've had some sagos take two years to leaf-out. Incidently, every one that I watered after the initial watering, rotted away, so do not water. If the leaves are left on they will be using up the stems reserves. With no roots to resupply the stem, it gives its reserves to the leaves then dies (collapses). Also had better luck putting the stems in potting soil than in the ground (sand). Hope this helps, good luck with them, Jim
Hello all!! I have a 3 yr old solo papaya, about 15-20 ft tall growing in my garden in uptown New Orleans. My question to all you knowledgable tropical plant lovers is, do you have to have a male & female for fruit production? I have seen several in the city loaded with fruit. But I haven't seen anyone up on a ladder with a paintbrush pollinating the flowers ( which is my next step) Ideas or comments, anyone?
well, I wrote this letter a couple of months ago, & it would seem that patience is indeed a virtue. I've decided that it was my window unit scareing the pollinating insects away. As soon as the weather cooled & the unit was no longer running, fruit just wouldn't stop appearing!! It now has about 10-15 fruit set, with more flowers setting fruit every week. I can now reach out the window to pick them, as the A?C has been stored for the season. Even if they don't taste as good as the male/female fruits, it will be fun to try !! thanks all!!
15 - 20 ft??? Seems a bit high for a Solo variety... Most literature say they are about 8 - 9 ft tall and produce at 9 months on with good fruit until about 3 years at which the fruit will become of lesser quality.... Like Bill suggested: Maybe you don't have a Solo variety. I guess this would explain why there is no fruit? Andy Florida
I have a solo papaya about the same age and size as yours. It produces madly, although the fruit is not as good as that on the female needing male pollination. My guess is that you don't have a solo. Several years ago, I bought several "solos"...only one of which lived, and it never produced anything.
i live in humtsville alabama. i am look for chinaberry trees neem mulberry trees i went through calfornia and saw some trees with blue flowers on them can anyone tell me what they are and can you grow them here
Howdy Rocket M.....we have Neem(Azadirachta indica) trees available.They should not be subjected to less than freezing temperatures,but probably some one from your Latitude can tell you their experience. I do know this about A. indica......seems like my kids were on a planting spree and they planted a tree within 2 feet of where the garbage accumultes(Bags ,of course).Well here in Puerto Rico,being tropical ,there were always flys and their larva around the collection area......After planting the Neem ,6 monthes later there were no insects in this area......Like none....ninguno!I have read much literature about Neem....but this experience really convinced me. As you mentioned blue flowering trees .....Is is possible that they were similiar to Flamboyan(Delonix regia)?If so that could be Jacaranda mimosifolia.It is so difficult to taxon anything from flower description alone,but I do know that Jacaranda does grow in some areas of California E-mail me if you are interested in any of the above or other tropicals. Saludos, Esteban
I live near San Diego, California. The tree with the blue flowers is most likely a jacaranda. It's currently in bloom. Neem trees can be purchased locally through a nursery called Exotica in Vista, California
I bet it was Jacaranda also. They are hardy to the mid 20's, but severly damaged or killed below about 20. They grow above zone 9 only, as far as I have seen: central and south Florida, south Texas, southern Arizona (Phoenix & Tucson), and low elevation areas of California, away from the colder parts of the Mojave desert, and also they grow along coastal areas of California. They are evergreen in Phoenix until late February to early March, and then they lose most of their leaves, and produce flowers, some stay green through flowering. After flowering they leaf out again fairly quickly. They may also survive in very coastal Gulf locations (ie New Orleans, Mobile, etc) but I don't recall ever having seen them there. If you get into low 20's or lower every winter, it might not be a good choice for your area. Good Luck! Chris.
I live in New Orleans and have just recently noticed a few jacarandas growing here. I know they can be propigated by seed but we are having a draught and I don't think there will be seed on these trees. Does anyone have some seed they can send me? I would glady trade plants in return. Or do you know of any mail order places that have jacaranda. None of the nurseries here carry it. Thanks
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